Doing a Thin Wheel Spacer. Should I Consider Track Width?

[Saddlerocker]

I am going to do a thin Bora spacer. Somewhere around .25"
Question is, should I go slightly thicker in the rear? Or just do .25" all around?
Front track width is .4" wider according to specs for my truck.

I was thinking 6mm (.24"ish) on front
And 10mm (.4"ish) on the rear.
It won't bring them even, but would close the gap a bit.

Im sure its typical overthinking, but thats what I do.

 

[BowersFJ]

Measure and verify …. Space accordingly


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[ayoslickxd]

it

I am going to do a thin Bora spacer. Somewhere around .25"
Question is, should I go slightly thicker in the rear?
Front track width is .4" wider according to specs for my truck.

I was thinking 6mm (.24"ish) on front
And 10mm (.4"ish) on the rear.
It won't bring them even, but would close the gap a bit.

Im sure its typical overthinking, but thats what I do.

same lol i had 1.5s

 

[Porky69]

To each his own, but curious why you want front and rear track width to match...

 

[ferraiolo1]

Over thinking it, i wouldnt use the .4 as its taking that much more of your wheel stud away.

 

[Saddlerocker]

To each his own, but curious why you want front and rear track width to match...

So the tires line up with fenders the same at the front as they do in back. Cosmetic reasons.
But thats why I asked this question.
Is there any reason not to?

 

[Saddlerocker]

Measure and verify …. Space accordingly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Over thinking it, i wouldnt use the .4 as its taking that much more of your wheel stud away.

That is a concern. I do want to find out what thickness is safe and gives at least 6-7 threads on the stud.
I figured 10mm would still be fine, but I do need to find out.

 

[HSKR R/T]

To each his own, but curious why you want front and rear track width to match...

Is there a benefit to them not matching?

 

[HSKR R/T]

That is a concern. I do want to find out what thickness is safe and gives at least 6-7 threads on the stud.
I figured 10mm would still be fine, but I do need to find out.

I used 1" rear and 3/4" front hubcentric spacers. Pushed the tires flush with the factory fender flares. I did have to trim off some of the factory studs so they didn't hit the wheels.

 

[Saddlerocker]

I used 1" rear and 3/4" front hubcentric spacers. Pushed the tires flush with the factory fender flares. I did have to trim off some of the factory studs so they didn't hit the wheels.

Were those size the ones that have pressed in studs? And you attach the spacer to your factory studs?
Since I only want a subtle change, I want to stay with just the plate using only my factory studs.

 

[ferraiolo1]

So the tires line up with fenders the same at the front as they do in back. Cosmetic reasons.
But thats why I asked this question.
Is there any reason not to?

Youre going to need to use actual spacers/adapters if thats the goal you want

 

[HSKR R/T]

Were those size the ones that have pressed in studs? And you attach the spacer to your factory studs?
Since I only want a subtle change, I want to stay with just the plate using only my factory studs.

Yes, spacer bolted to factory studs, and studs on the spacers for wheel. Anything over maybe 1/4" and you lose the hubcentric ring on the hub, and not enough material to make the spacer with a hubcentric ring until you get to 1/2"

 

[HSKR R/T]

And even at 1/4" you really don't have the ring to center the wheel anymore. IMO doing 1/4 or less" spacer for cosmetic reasons is pointless as it's barely noticeable. Most people only use thin spacers like that for clearance issues.

 

[Saddlerocker]

Yes, spacer bolted to factory studs, and studs on the spacers for wheel. Anything over maybe 1/4" and you lose the hubcentric ring on the hub, and not enough material to make the spacer with a hubcentric ring until you get to 1/2"

I think all Boras have the hubcentric lip, but I could be wrong.

I swear its so much harder to make a subtle change on these trucks. At least with leveling options as well as wheels spacers.
Go big or go home I suppose

 

[ferraiolo1]

slip on spacers make you loose the hub centric aspect.

Like said about they really dont do anything for ascetics since its such a minor change, mainly when you have a clearance issue at full lock with a larger tire and your A-arms, they come in handy.

The bora bolt on spacers and most other bolt on spacers are hub centric.

 

[Saddlerocker]

I used 1" rear and 3/4" front hubcentric spacers. Pushed the tires flush with the factory fender flares. I did have to trim off some of the factory studs so they didn't hit the wheels.

I guess I would be ok with this size as well.
Do you have factory wheels? Just wondering if the pockets are the same.
Did you have to trim for the 1" or just the 3/4"?

 

[Shots]

I am going to do a thin Bora spacer. Somewhere around .25"
Question is, should I go slightly thicker in the rear? Or just do .25" all around?
Front track width is .4" wider according to specs for my truck.

I was thinking 6mm (.24"ish) on front
And 10mm (.4"ish) on the rear.
It won't bring them even, but would close the gap a bit.

Im sure its typical overthinking, but thats what I do.

6mm spacers should be okay, although they're right at the edge of what is considered safe.
10mm is too thick, and you won't have sufficient thread engagement. The thickest spacer you can fit on the DT and still achieve the minimum thread engagement is 7mm.

I went into detail on this on another thread. Here's a link to my post if you're interested → LINK

 

[Shots]

So the tires line up with fenders the same at the front as they do in back. Cosmetic reasons.
But thats why I asked this question.
Is there any reason not to?

Noted in my last response, but I wanted to answer the question directly because it's important.
The reason not to run a 10mm spacer is because it won't be safe. You risk thread failure and/or shearing studs.
Leave the tapered track width it's essentially undetectable, and helps with fuel efficiency.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I guess I would be ok with this size as well.
Do you have factory wheels? Just wondering if the pockets are the same.
Did you have to trim for the 1" or just the 3/4"?

Factory Built to Serve wheels. I did have to trim for both spacers, but others with different style factory wheels claim they had no issues with the 1" and needing to trim. But my wheels were clearly hitting the untrimmed studs on the rear. All I did was knock off the unthreaded tip for clearance. The 3/4" spacers I had to take off about 1/2" from factory studs.

 

[Saddlerocker]

6mm spacers should be okay, although they're right at the edge of what is considered safe.
10mm is too thick, and you won't have sufficient thread engagement. The thickest spacer you can fit on the DT and still achieve the minimum thread engagement is 7mm.

I went into detail on this on another thread. Here's a link to my post if you're interested → LINK

Great. Thank You