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DIY bed extender/divider

Shots

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If anyone is considering a bed extender/divider, and you're looking for DIY ideas before you drop $250+ on one I made this post for you. I was looking for ideas but couldn't find any so I had to wing it. In the end (with revisions/modifications) I've spent under $100.
I made mine hinge, and I put mesh along the bottom but if you don't want it to fold, and don't want the screen you can do this for about $60 - $70 depending on the price of materials in your area.

I made it from 1.5" black plastic drain pipe (aka Charlotte pipe). You can glue the pipes together for a smoother look, but I used hex head screws for a more "industrial" look. You could also use black drywall screws if you don't want to deal with the mess of glue, and don't really want the screws to show. These are what I used for the screen, after test fitting it with zip ties.

To secure it in the extension mode, I tied crab style clamps (found with other dog leash clamps) on each side. They're tied around the middle rail on the end post via paracord. These clamp to the tie down with the extender snug against he rubber tailgate stoppers. On the bottom rail I've got a piece of velcro which wraps around the tailgate cable. ← These can be seen in photo "bed extender (7)"
To secure it in the divider mode I have a bungee ball attached to the middle rail. These loop through the tie down, and the divider is prevented from sliding forward by the wheel well hump. ← These are seen in photos "bed extender (2)" and "bed extender (4)"
The screen is black coated aluminum gutter guard. It's not in most of the photos because it was a adaptation to prevent small stuff from getting through the gap after I used it a few times. ← Seen in photo "bed extender (11)"
I made the hinges out of wood blocks simply because I could, but tou could use actual hinges if you didn't want to take the time to make your own. By adding hinges it will fold "flat" allowing you to easily store it if it's in the way, but it will cost a little more in materials because you'll have to make 2 more posts.
If you want it solid instead of foldable, you'll need 4 less T's and 2 less 90's. Instead of making vertical posts at the ends, you'll put 90's to connect the lateral and longitudinal rails to create a squared off U instead of 3 flat rails connected by hinges.

I know this isn't fancy so it's not for someone who is mainly concerned with appearances. I made it all black so it doesn't look like poo, but this isn't show truck stuff. This is a diy project for something that cost 3x as much if you buy it retail. It does the same job, by allowing you to haul an 8' item flat in the bad as an extender (assuming you have the 6.4 bed), and keeps your groceries from sliding to the front as a divider (for any size bed). Basically, I'm posting this as craft fodder for those who may be trying to come up with their own design.

Feel free to post any bed extenders and/or dividers of what you have made. Maybe we can help others out who want to save some cash, or are just plain crafty and would rather make something than buy it.
 

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RJS

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That actually looks very nice and also functional like the OEM. Just for the record, the pipe is most likely ABS not PVC.
 

Shots

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You are correct, it is. Typed pvc out of habit. I'll correct the post so anyone shopping able to find it. Thanks.
 

LaxDfns15

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It looks good, but man the OEM extender is just so solid. With just the paracord holding that in I'd be worried about something heavy enough to pull the knots out/break the weak points (thinking along the lines of an ATV coming loose). You're going to spend $1000 on your bed cover (if it's new), but skimp $50-100 (including labor) on holding something in the bed? That was my philosophy when buying stuff for the truck.
 

Whoa_Ram

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Going to save this for a future project. I don't need it as a bed extender, just a divider so going to create something similar.
 

Shots

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It looks good, but man the OEM extender is just so solid. With just the paracord holding that in I'd be worried about something heavy enough to pull the knots out/break the weak points (thinking along the lines of an ATV coming loose). You're going to spend $1000 on your bed cover (if it's new), but skimp $50-100 (including labor) on holding something in the bed? That was my philosophy when buying stuff for the truck.
I'm not hauling ATV's, appliances or heavy object back there. I've got a trailer for large heavy objects. It's much easier to load/unload them close to the ground rather than try to heft them into the bed of the truck. That said, if you're hauling ATV's or dirt bikes, I'd recommend a ReadyRamp. It's aluminum, and straightens out to make a ramp you can use to load the bike. And regardless of what brand or material bed extender you use, you should be strapping that stuff down.
I use mine for things like a bunch of boxes, a pile of 2x4's, a few sheets of plywood or camping supplies.

As for the materials and fasteners. Done right, paracord will hold longer/stronger than the pipes and/or clips. If you're using legit paracord (which I did) it will withstand hundreds of pounds of load, or even thousands if you loop and knot it correctly. The plastic itself has a fracture strength of approximately 2.5 ksi and a yield strength a bit more than double that. Having done the math on it, you can accelerate quickly from a stop with a 200 lbs load and not exceed the capability of the plastic (this is without even factoring friction). I don't know why you would be accelerating quickly with a load, but you could without even reaching half the limit of the material.
You need to keep in mind that the load on an extender is minimal in most cases. The only force applied is from acceleration (momentum holds the load at a stop as the truck accelerates forward, and the extender is then used to accelerate the load). As I previously mentioned though friction between the load and the bed does factor in to what it can handle. Obviously an ATV on wheels will apply much more force to the extender than a stack of wood with the same mass because the wood will have a lot more resistance from the bed than the rolling ATV.

At the end of the day, get the extender you're comfortable with, which matches your intended use. That said, as I started to design this I didn't take it lightly and did explore a lot of variables to make sure it would be safe. Would I use it for an ATV? Sure, but I'd have the ATV strapped down. Would I use it as the only means to keep an ATV in the bed? Absolutely not. Of course I wouldn't use the Mopar with as the only means to keep an ATV in either.
 

Shots

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FWIW, based on the math I did, my hinges are the weak point. They're well within the safety margin for anything I plan to use this for, but they're going to fail before the plastic or cords. If I intended any heavy use, I'd make more robust hinges out of metal or composite.
 

Shots

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bed extender (12).jpg
8' long 2x6's and 4x4's. Nice and secure. So much easier than having to lean everything against the closed tailgate.
 

Shots

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As I made it, you'll need:
  • 12 Tee's
  • 12 90's
  • 2 pipes
  • 2 clamps
  • 2 bungie balls
  • 3 gutter screens (maybe it was 4, I don't remember now)
  • short length of paracord
  • short length of velcro (or any brand hook and loop fastener)
  • glue or screws depending on your appearance preference
  • hinges, diy or ready made (there are some good gate ones that will work)
 

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