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Differential & Transfer Case service at 50k miles??

Cbty2050

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I would skip the dealer, I had the dealer do my rear diff and they forgot to put the anti friction modifier back in, took two more trips back to the dealer to get it right. Not sure where they are hiring these people but they can't even do a simple diff service.
Have you interviewed anyone recently for the "mechanic/technician" position? It is a sad state of who thinks they are qualified/able to perform repairs.
 

Biga

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Have you interviewed anyone recently for the "mechanic/technician" position? It is a sad state of who thinks they are qualified/able to perform repairs.
I have not, but I've heard its bad out their right now trying to find people who actually want to work and then they are trying to push everyone to go to college causing a big void in the mechanical and technical fields.
 

kdoublep

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I'm pushing 60K. No towing but I'm gonna do my diffs anyway.

I use 4Auto in rain often. Don't use 4Hi much at all but engage it so often. Only engaged 4Lo once to test it.

When should I do transfer cases? Same time
 

PaulieWalnutz

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I just had my front,rear,and transfer case oil changed at the dealer Friday 40k miles and now I’m having all types of issues.. went in for simple oil change and rotation but they talked me into doing the diff.. I’m on a family trip by lake George and 200 miles away from home.. getting grinding noises on turns, wheel hop and hoping I don’t do any serious damage having to drive it like this
 

cskindt

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I just had my front,rear,and transfer case oil changed at the dealer Friday 40k miles and now I’m having all types of issues.. went in for simple oil change and rotation but they talked me into doing the diff.. I’m on a family trip by lake George and 200 miles away from home.. getting grinding noises on turns, wheel hop and hoping I don’t do any serious damage having to drive it like this
If you have the limited slip differential, it sounds like you need some friction modifier that the dealer forgot to put in.
 

PaulieWalnutz

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If you have the limited slip differential, it sounds like you need some friction modifier that the dealer forgot to put in.
I do have the anti spin rear differential. I guess that could be issue. Thanks
 

c3k

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I just had my front,rear,and transfer case oil changed at the dealer Friday 40k miles and now I’m having all types of issues.. went in for simple oil change and rotation but they talked me into doing the diff.. I’m on a family trip by lake George and 200 miles away from home.. getting grinding noises on turns, wheel hop and hoping I don’t do any serious damage having to drive it like this
Like @cskindt said, this sounds like a CLASSIC case of a limite-slip differential that is missing its friction modifier.

Thumbnail sketch: your limited slip internal clutch is "too grippy". That locks both tires to the same speed. During turns on pavement, something has to give, so one tire will skip, pop, lurch or hop. That's far better than having an axle crack. ;)

The fix is VERY easy: add the appropriate amount of Mopar friction modifier. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopa...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468493900&psc=1

It's common and widely available. Toss it into the fill port on the top of your rear diff. An auto parts store may do it for you. Tip the guy.

Now, why did it happen? Maybe someone forgot. Maybe someone didn't know you had a limited slip differential. (Not every truck has one.) Maybe someone thought the "LS" prefix on the differential fluid was enough. ("LS" means limited slip.) Some diffs are okay with just LS, some need additional modifier.

TL;DR: buy the $10 bottle of friction modifier...available almost anywhere...toss it into the fill plug on the top of your diff. You'll be fixed, and your wife will have those feelings rekindled. Send the kids out to the lake to fish... ;)
 

HSKR R/T

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I just had my front,rear,and transfer case oil changed at the dealer Friday 40k miles and now I’m having all types of issues.. went in for simple oil change and rotation but they talked me into doing the diff.. I’m on a family trip by lake George and 200 miles away from home.. getting grinding noises on turns, wheel hop and hoping I don’t do any serious damage having to drive it like this
As mentioned, sounds like dealer forgot to add the limited slip additive. You can get some at almost any parts store, or dealer. Almost every dealer, regardless of brand, will have some to buy. It doesn't have to be Mopar friction modifier. Some people actually prefer the Chevy stuff as it's cheaper than Mopar. Better to buy the stuff and add it yourself before you do any serious damage without it
 

Cbty2050

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Like @cskindt said, this sounds like a CLASSIC case of a limite-slip differential that is missing its friction modifier.

Thumbnail sketch: your limited slip internal clutch is "too grippy". That locks both tires to the same speed. During turns on pavement, something has to give, so one tire will skip, pop, lurch or hop. That's far better than having an axle crack. ;)

The fix is VERY easy: add the appropriate amount of Mopar friction modifier. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopa...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468493900&psc=1

It's common and widely available. Toss it into the fill port on the top of your rear diff. An auto parts store may do it for you. Tip the guy.

Now, why did it happen? Maybe someone forgot. Maybe someone didn't know you had a limited slip differential. (Not every truck has one.) Maybe someone thought the "LS" prefix on the differential fluid was enough. ("LS" means limited slip.) Some diffs are okay with just LS, some need additional modifier.

TL;DR: buy the $10 bottle of friction modifier...available almost anywhere...toss it into the fill plug on the top of your diff. You'll be fixed, and your wife will have those feelings rekindled. Send the kids out to the lake to fish... ;)
I would guess it is overfilled also, will need to drain some off to add any modifier to it.
 

HSKR R/T

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I would guess it is overfilled also, will need to drain some off to add any modifier to it.
It doesn't take a lot of modifier. Would be better to add some and be slightly over filled than not have any. Then take it back to servicing dealer and get it fixed.
 

Cbty2050

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It doesn't take a lot of modifier. Would be better to add some and be slightly over filled than not have any. Then take it back to servicing dealer and get it fixed.
Wouldn't it be just as easy to drain a little and add. I am willing to bet if the fill plug is removed some fluid will come out, that is over filled. Now a dealer can claim it wasn't serviced properly and decline a warranty claim(if it came to that), regardless who serviced it.

Does the customer have the paperwork with what was billed out? Many dealers use an aftermarket fluid that has friction modifier in the fluid.
 

HSKR R/T

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Wouldn't it be just as easy to drain a little and add. I am willing to bet if the fill plug is removed some fluid will come out, that is over filled. Now a dealer can claim it wasn't serviced properly and decline a warranty claim(if it came to that), regardless who serviced it.

Does the customer have the paperwork with what was billed out? Many dealers use an aftermarket fluid that has friction modifier in the fluid.
If fluid comes out when fill plug is removed, then it's most definitely over filled. As the proper fill level is 1/4"-1/8" below the fill plug. I have t veeifiedz but even if our diffs have drain plugs, it would be difficult to only drain enough to add the friction modifier. At least without making a mess. And since he is on a road trip, I doubt he has a drain pan.
 

Cbty2050

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If fluid comes out when fill plug is removed, then it's most definitely over filled. As the proper fill level is 1/4"-1/8" below the fill plug. I have t veeifiedz but even if our diffs have drain plugs, it would be difficult to only drain enough to add the friction modifier. At least without making a mess. And since he is on a road trip, I doubt he has a drain pan.
If you pull the drain plug and leave the fill plug in, it will drain very slow. A solo cup would work. If done when cold, gear oil moves fairly slow.
 

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