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Detailing Questions and Recommendations

wegasque

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Washing:
I have been looking at getting a deionizer for a while, but just can’t decide on which one to get. I've looked at some of them that people have mentioned in other threads and today saw the Adam’s Portable Spotless Water Deionizer. For a spot free rinse, do people use these with their pressure washer or are they best used with garden hose pressure and nozzle? If used with a pressure washer, what is the minimum flow needed through the deionizer to ensure that the pressure washer can have a sustained flow and not cycle? Any recommendations for deionizers to stay away from for use with a pressure washer?

Drying:
I was at Lowe’s this morning and saw the small portable shop blowers by both Kobalt and Craftsman. I checked Home Depot and it seems all the cordless tool brands carry some version of these. They're like a baby leaf blower and seem to be a good hand-held size for drying off your truck after washing. I’ve been thinking about getting something to speed the drying process since my shop air compressor is too small for sustained continuous use.
1665852059536.png
I’ve also looked at the Adams Air Cannon and read some threads where people are also using leaf blowers.

My question to everyone is: What is the critical factor in determining how well a tool dries? Is it the CFM rating or the MPH rating. Obviously, both are important but it seems like the CFM would be the more important factor in determining how well it dries. What experiences have others had? Any recommendations for dryers to stay away from? The Kobalt shown above only moves 110CFM at 180mph.
 

HSKR R/T

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My DI filter off Amazon works good through my 1700psi Black Max electric pressure washer. Now, I can't run it constantly, but I can spray off like the roof and windows then let it build back upz then spray hood and front fenders....... I use one of those expandable hoses which I use for a gauge for when to stop spraying. When it gets tight then stop and let it expand back to full length. Not sure if that helps with feeding the pressure washer or now. PXL_20221015_171526814.jpg
 

Eighty

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Can’t comment on the deionizer thing.
But for drying, I use a 500cfm Stihl backpack blower and it dries things pretty quickly. I have a small Dewalt battery operated blower, but I imagine it would take forever to dry the truck. I would recommend “the bigger the better”.
Only complaint with the backpack blower is that I have a hard time reaching over the hood (forget the roof - way too high). So a small stepladder is necessary to reach everything.
 

wegasque

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My DI filter off Amazon works good through my 1700psi Black Max electric pressure washer. Now, I can't run it constantly, but I can spray off like the roof and windows then let it build back upz then spray hood and front fenders....... I use one of those expandable hoses which I use for a gauge for when to stop spraying. When it gets tight then stop and let it expand back to full length. Not sure if that helps with feeding the pressure washer or now. View attachment 141222
My pressure washer is 3100 psi so it would the cycle would be shorter I would imagine. This is good information for consideration. Thanks!
 

djevox

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I also use a backpack blower (echo pb580t) when I want to blow dry a vehicle. Usually I just hand dry, though.
 

wegasque

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Can’t comment on the deionizer thing.
But for drying, I use a 500cfm Stihl backpack blower and it dries things pretty quickly. I have a small Dewalt battery operated blower, but I imagine it would take forever to dry the truck. I would recommend “the bigger the better”.
Only complaint with the backpack blower is that I have a hard time reaching over the hood (forget the roof - way too high). So a small stepladder is necessary to reach everything.
I will keep 500 cfm as a good data point in my search. Thanks!
 

wegasque

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I also use a backpack blower (echo pb580t) when I want to blow dry a vehicle. Usually I just hand dry, though.
I've looked at those backpack blowers and they seem pretty versatile. I don't have any 2-cycle equipment right now so I'd probably wait until after I move to the acreage to get anything 2-cycle. 517 cfm looks good.
 

bigdodge

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HSKR R/T

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wegasque

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Jako

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Washing:
I have been looking at getting a deionizer for a while, but just can’t decide on which one to get. I've looked at some of them that people have mentioned in other threads and today saw the Adam’s Portable Spotless Water Deionizer. For a spot free rinse, do people use these with their pressure washer or are they best used with garden hose pressure and nozzle? If used with a pressure washer, what is the minimum flow needed through the deionizer to ensure that the pressure washer can have a sustained flow and not cycle? Any recommendations for deionizers to stay away from for use with a pressure washer?

Drying:
I was at Lowe’s this morning and saw the small portable shop blowers by both Kobalt and Craftsman. I checked Home Depot and it seems all the cordless tool brands carry some version of these. They're like a baby leaf blower and seem to be a good hand-held size for drying off your truck after washing. I’ve been thinking about getting something to speed the drying process since my shop air compressor is too small for sustained continuous use.
View attachment 141221
I’ve also looked at the Adams Air Cannon and read some threads where people are also using leaf blowers.

My question to everyone is: What is the critical factor in determining how well a tool dries? Is it the CFM rating or the MPH rating. Obviously, both are important but it seems like the CFM would be the more important factor in determining how well it dries. What experiences have others had? Any recommendations for dryers to stay away from? The Kobalt shown above only moves 110CFM at 180mph.
Can't help you with cfms at this time but I found Dewalt battery blower lacking (gave it to my son for his lawn care), Echo back pack blower bulky and restrictive. I use what I started with a hand held, 2 cycle Stihl blower, I believe a BG 55. Not as powerful as the back pack but easier to maneuver.
 

BowDown

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Washing:
I have been looking at getting a deionizer for a while, but just can’t decide on which one to get. I've looked at some of them that people have mentioned in other threads and today saw the Adam’s Portable Spotless Water Deionizer. For a spot free rinse, do people use these with their pressure washer or are they best used with garden hose pressure and nozzle? If used with a pressure washer, what is the minimum flow needed through the deionizer to ensure that the pressure washer can have a sustained flow and not cycle? Any recommendations for deionizers to stay away from for use with a pressure washer?

Drying:
I was at Lowe’s this morning and saw the small portable shop blowers by both Kobalt and Craftsman. I checked Home Depot and it seems all the cordless tool brands carry some version of these. They're like a baby leaf blower and seem to be a good hand-held size for drying off your truck after washing. I’ve been thinking about getting something to speed the drying process since my shop air compressor is too small for sustained continuous use.
View attachment 141221
I’ve also looked at the Adams Air Cannon and read some threads where people are also using leaf blowers.

My question to everyone is: What is the critical factor in determining how well a tool dries? Is it the CFM rating or the MPH rating. Obviously, both are important but it seems like the CFM would be the more important factor in determining how well it dries. What experiences have others had? Any recommendations for dryers to stay away from? The Kobalt shown above only moves 110CFM at 180mph.

I only use my DI system for rinsing, if temps are high, I will use DI for wash and rinse.
PSI of the pressure washer dosen't matter in terms of the DI system, GPM is what matters. A good DI system will be rated at 1.5 to 2 gallons per minute, you need your pressure washer to operate within those parameters.

1st thing to learn is that PSI dosen't clean, GPM is what cleans, more water flow, better the cleaning power.
You can manipulate gpm of the pressure washer with different size orifice tips. I have a AR 630 TSS (max 1900 psi with a 3.5 orifice) rated at 2.1 gpm 5.0 orifice. I'm using a cobra jet hose with an mosmatic gun and a 4.5 orifice and can get 2 GPM at 1500 working PSI, not peak and still maintain 2.0 GPM. My DI system is rated at 2.0 GPM, it can easily keep up with the pressure washer. I also changed the GFI outlet to a 20 amp so the washer motor doesn't get overloaded.

Be careful when making orifice changes though as it can overload the motor which is why I changed the outlet. The 630 can operate on a 15 amp or 20 amp circuit. 20amp allows for more power without overloaded the motor allowing me to maintain 2 GPM with 1500 psi.

DI rinses make drying easier but I use an EGO 765 cfm blower with a stubby tip but it's the ceramic coating and the DI that make the drying job easier
 

wegasque

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I only use my DI system for rinsing, if temps are high, I will use DI for wash and rinse.
PSI of the pressure washer dosen't matter in terms of the DI system, GPM is what matters. A good DI system will be rated at 1.5 to 2 gallons per minute, you need your pressure washer to operate within those parameters.

1st thing to learn is that PSI dosen't clean, GPM is what cleans, more water flow, better the cleaning power.
You can manipulate gpm of the pressure washer with different size orifice tips. I have a AR 630 TSS (max 1900 psi with a 3.5 orifice) rated at 2.1 gpm 5.0 orifice. I'm using a cobra jet hose with an mosmatic gun and a 4.5 orifice and can get 2 GPM at 1500 working PSI, not peak and still maintain 2.0 GPM. My DI system is rated at 2.0 GPM, it can easily keep up with the pressure washer. I also changed the GFI outlet to a 20 amp so the washer motor doesn't get overloaded.

Be careful when making orifice changes though as it can overload the motor which is why I changed the outlet. The 630 can operate on a 15 amp or 20 amp circuit. 20amp allows for more power without overloaded the motor allowing me to maintain 2 GPM with 1500 psi.

DI rinses make drying easier but I use an EGO 765 cfm blower with a stubby tip but it's the ceramic coating and the DI that make the drying job easier
Thanks Bowdown. I've got a Generac Speedwash 3200 that has a max 2.7 GPM. I inherited this unit when my folks passed so I'll have to download a manual to read up on the specs and determine the best orifice for the job. It's a gas unit so no issues with the motor overheating. It sounds like I'll have to operate it at a lower GPM so the DI will keep up when I rinse.
 

djevox

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Thanks Bowdown. I've got a Generac Speedwash 3200 that has a max 2.7 GPM. I inherited this unit when my folks passed so I'll have to download a manual to read up on the specs and determine the best orifice for the job. It's a gas unit so no issues with the motor overheating. It sounds like I'll have to operate it at a lower GPM so the DI will keep up when I rinse.
Your cfm will be restricted by the smallest orifice in the system. You can also use the pressure drop from the DI unit’s specs if it doesn’t show cfm. If you size everything including hoses accurately, your pressure washer will not have restricted flow.
 

Mountain Whiskey

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I have found that the tunnel of clean has a massive water filtration system in addition to a demonize system. Like big commercial grade.
345d113b89f65b0183cba2b51665fdfb.jpeg.jpg

Then I can adjust the MPH of the blow dry with this gadget. I am not sure of the cfm rating but I believe it is pretty good. Does a great job. 👍
s-l1600-1.jpg
 

HSKR R/T

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I have found that the tunnel of clean has a massive water filtration system in addition to a demonize system. Like big commercial grade.
View attachment 141299

Then I can adjust the MPH of the blow dry with this gadget. I am not sure of the cfm rating but I believe it is pretty good. Does a great job. 👍
View attachment 141300
I haven't found an automatic car wash yet that gets all the water off in the blow dry section, and doesn't leave spots of you don't wipe it down afterwards
 

wegasque

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I haven't found an automatic car wash yet that gets all the water off in the blow dry section, and doesn't leave spots of you don't wipe it down afterwards
There was an automatic car wash near my last office. I joined the unlimited wash club for $29 per month and used to run my Charger through there every ight when I wa sleaving work. I had a 45 mile one-way commute, so it had plenty of ample drying time. It was awfully handy. There were only two issues - my Charger was black and you could see the swirls and it did only a passable job of washing. It didn't remove al the bugs from the front and there were always some trouble spots that never quite got clean. As a result, when I got my truck, I decided I wouldn't take it through an autowash unless touchless and I haven't seen any near me.
 

Mountain Whiskey

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I haven't found an automatic car wash yet that gets all the water off in the blow dry section, and doesn't leave spots of you don't wipe it down afterwards
Come on @HSKR R/T you didn't get the blow dry was the accelerator pedal?

Man, here I was ready to quit my day job and you just got me kicked out of the comedy club!
 

BowDown

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Carwashers
I have found that the tunnel of clean has a massive water filtration system in addition to a demonize system. Like big commercial grade.
View attachment 141299

Then I can adjust the MPH of the blow dry with this gadget. I am not sure of the cfm rating but I believe it is pretty good. Does a great job. 👍
View attachment 141300

They dont use DI water and barely filter the water. Most carwashes reclaim their wash/ rinse water and reuse it so you're getting a car wash with dirty water
 

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