Correcting rear suspension geometry when lowering 2WD

[Rock Crawler]

I spoke with Steven at Timber Grove, because I want to use his 4” lowering air bag system, and he stated that it is imperative that the axle be centered front to back and left to right. Lowering obviously changes the suspension geometry. I know the panhard bar keeps the axle centered left to right. For those who are lowering 4” in the rear, what are y’all using to keep the axle centered front to back and maintain the correct pinion angle? Adjustable control arms, relocation brackets, etc? I’m just trying to collect as much info as possible before pulling the trigger on all of my lowering parts. And, I want to do it right the first time.

 

[Mopar_maxi]

Only way to correct back to front would be the IHC cut brackets. I’m lowered 4” in the rear and plan to do the cut brackets later this fall. But I haven’t had any issues currently without them.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Only way to correct back to front would be the IHC cut brackets. I’m lowered 4” in the rear and plan to do the cut brackets later this fall. But I haven’t had any issues currently without them.

Yeah, I found this video that explains the process, but I was really hoping there was another option that wasn’t permanent, just in case I end up disliking the setup.

 

[TittoPollito]

Another option would be to reach out to core 4x4 or a local chassis shop and get longer link bars, that being said I defiantly would run that as more than a temporary solution. Ideally for a DD you want to keep the link bars horizontal or a slight negative angle (front higher than rear).

 

[Mopar_maxi]

Yeah, I found this video that explains the process, but I was really hoping there was another option that wasn’t permanent, just in case I end up disliking the setup.

According to IHC, if you chose to go back to stock height with their brackets installed, it’s not an issue.

 

[Rock Crawler]

According to IHC, if you chose to go back to stock height with their brackets installed, it’s not an issue.

If it’s the cut bracket, then I’ll have to weld the original bracket back on after removing their bracket. Not a huge deal, but after cutting it off and cleaning up the surface, it’s going to be difficult figuring out exactly where to weld the old bracket back on.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Another option would be to reach out to core 4x4 or a local chassis shop and get longer link bars, that being said I defiantly would run that as more than a temporary solution. Ideally for a DD you want to keep the link bars horizontal or a slight negative angle (front higher than rear).

A longer bar will allow for adjustment of the axle front to back, but will not correct the angle. The arms will still be slanted.

 

[Clv22p]

If it’s the cut bracket, then I’ll have to weld the original bracket back on after removing their bracket. Not a huge deal, but after cutting it off and cleaning up the surface, it’s going to be difficult figuring out exactly where to weld the old bracket back on.

No. You can just put the factory springs back in and go back to stock.

"These 4-link relocation bracket – CUT KIT will require customer to cut OEM brackets off differential. If customer want to go back to stock, he simply leaves the bracket in place and re-install OEM springs. Now, if customer wants to lift the truck, he will need adjustable rear trailing arms to set pinion or fab new diff brackets for upper trailing arm."

IHC Suspension | Shop

ihcsuspension.com

 

[Rock Crawler]

No. You can just put the factory springs back in and go back to stock.

"These 4-link relocation bracket – CUT KIT will require customer to cut OEM brackets off differential. If customer want to go back to stock, he simply leaves the bracket in place and re-install OEM springs. Now, if customer wants to lift the truck, he will need adjustable rear trailing arms to set pinion or fab new diff brackets for upper trailing arm."

IHC Suspension | Shop

ihcsuspension.com

Ok, this does not make sense to me. If I’m correcting geometry by moving the arms down due to lowering, it seems to me that it would be required to move them back up if going back to stock height. If I leave everything where it is, and just put the stock springs back in, then the geometry is still set for lowering. Am I wrong?

 

[ferraiolo1]

Contact ihc, I’m sure they can explain it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bpebler]

After my last update, it was stuck on entry/exit mode on the air suspension for a few weeks & I really liked it. Unfortunately, I hit the toggle switch & even with aero mode switched off it still goes into aero mode anyway. Ruined it for me! Lol

I’m sure there’s a way to tune/flash it back to the way it was, but not without the dealer being able to tell it was tuned/flashed. Not a huge deal I guess, still looks ok in aero…just way better in entry/exit.

If I didn’t have lifetime coverage on the air suspension components, it’d be an easy fix. Maybe in several years when the repairs outweighs the value of the vehicle I can finally consider a level lowering kit with forced induction. Until then, I’m chasing the soon to be released Civic Type R to replace my old lifted Jeep Cherokee.

 

[Clv22p]

Ok, this does not make sense to me. If I’m correcting geometry by moving the arms down due to lowering, it seems to me that it would be required to move them back up if going back to stock height. If I leave everything where it is, and just put the stock springs back in, then the geometry is still set for lowering. Am I wrong?

I think you can get by and be fine without doing them at 4 inches because you are still in range of the factory geometry. Same with going back to stock. You are still in range with the correction brackets.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Contact ihc, I’m sure they can explain it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I called IHC and they said their brackets are for a 5” and 6” drop. They said it could possibly work on a 4” drop. They said they did not know if the bracket would work with the Timber Grove setup. Don’t know why it wouldn’t. Basically, I guess I would have to mark the axle somehow so I would know where to weld the original bracket back on if ever needed.