Changing Badge colors

[PurpleRT]

I think he wanted over $1000 tho

I guess it depends on how much badging you want done. I had him colormatch me a set. Just the front and rear Ram. Everything else was debadged. I thought about doing it myself but once I factored in the cost of replacement black badges to start.. then buying paint to do it right.. I might of saved $60. Which in my case my time is extremely limited right now so finding the time for me to do it myself is slim and worth paying him the difference. Now I will say this any quality bodyshop can do it.. even better if your having them paint match other items to since most don’t like to do small paint work. I found a bodyshop when I was working in Jacksonville that repainted one of my flares for cheap but did great quality of work and didn’t mind doing minor things especially for if your the one install and reinstalling the part yourself but I didn’t have time to order and wait on badges before I finished that job up to head to another.


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[Clarkbateman]

I guess it depends on how much badging you want done. I had him colormatch me a set. Just the front and rear Ram. Everything else was debadged. I thought about doing it myself but once I factored in the cost of replacement black badges to start.. then buying paint to do it right.. I might of saved $60. Which in my case my time is extremely limited right now so finding the time for me to do it myself is slim and worth paying him the difference. Now I will say this any quality bodyshop can do it.. even better if your having them paint match other items to since most don’t like to do small paint work. I found a bodyshop when I was working in Jacksonville that repainted one of my flares for cheap but did great quality of work and didn’t mind doing minor things especially for if your the one install and reinstalling the part yourself but I didn’t have time to order and wait on badges before I finished that job up to head to another.


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Thank you very much

 

[Shots]

OK … Here we go …. I have a pair of Wolverines, I’d never buy a $300 Gucci belt, I have no issues with vinyl graphics or “stickers” (Had a custom “sticker” on the hood of my 2012, and never had a single corner peel up), I drink Keystone Light cuz it’s Coors Light in a different can and $18 a 30-Pack, and Plasti-Dip still sucks …. Now call me an elitist … Lol … And yes, just my opinion

LOL fair enough. I wasn't really trying to say you specifically were an elitist but I can see how it was taken that way. My apologies. I was just saying that the idea that something must cost more to be "right" or "good" bugs me. I don't know you from Adam so I would have no way to know if you're like that or not, although $5 fix for a $5 truck seem to imply it had to be expensive to be good. Judging by the boots and beer, I'm going to guess you're not like that. Apparently you just really dislike Plastidip, which is opinion you're certainly entitled to. Some people love it, some hate it. I'm somewhere in the middle.
I agree with you that Platidip can suck, but I'd add "for some uses." I also agree with mikeru82 that it does have some good uses too. I'd have no issues with it on an emblem, but it's a terrible option for a wheel. So for me, I guess it depends on the use whether it sucks or not.

Thanks. I would like to get them painted. I have only been to one paint shop so far , and they said the paint would not stay on the chrome badges , to have them wrapped. So I went to the guy to wrap them but the wrap is only 1 dimensional, and I want the entire badge to be colored

Unless you treat the chrome properly they are correct. I've got a few examples from over the years.
1. I painted the chrome grille on my 2005 Ram. I scuffed the chrome with emery than scotchbrite before painting. It looked okay for about 6 months then started to peel. So yes, they are correct that it's difficult to get paint to stick to chrome.
2. However, I painted the chrome grille and bumper on my 2007 Ram and it stuck just fine. I scuffed the chrome with emery (started more course) and worked up/down to scotchbrite. Then I applied adhesion promotor designed for chrome before applying paint. It still looked great the day I traded it in 2014.
3. On that same 2007 Ram I pulled the chrome emblems off, blasted them with silica beads and then painted them (no primer or adhesion promotor) and they looked brand new until I sold the truck too.

The attached image is that 2007 Ram in 2010. As you can see the grille, bumper and emblems were still holding up after 3 years, and they continued to for at least 4 more after that.

 

[Clarkbateman]

LOL fair enough. I wasn't really trying to say you specifically were an elitist but I can see how it was taken that way. My apologies. I was just saying that the idea that something must cost more to be "right" or "good" bugs me. I don't know you from Adam so I would have no way to know if you're like that or not, although $5 fix for a $5 truck seem to imply it had to be expensive to be good. Judging by the boots and beer, I'm going to guess you're not like that. Apparently you just really dislike Plastidip, which is opinion you're certainly entitled to. Some people love it, some hate it. I'm somewhere in the middle.
I agree with you that Platidip can suck, but I'd add "for some uses." I also agree with mikeru82 that it does have some good uses too. I'd have no issues with it on an emblem, but it's a terrible option for a wheel. So for me, I guess it depends on the use whether it sucks or not.


Unless you treat the chrome properly they are correct. I've got a few examples from over the years.
1. I painted the chrome grille on my 2005 Ram. I scuffed the chrome with emery than scotchbrite before painting. It looked okay for about 6 months then started to peel. So yes, they are correct that it's difficult to get paint to stick to chrome.
2. However, I painted the chrome grille and bumper on my 2007 Ram and it stuck just fine. I scuffed the chrome with emery (started more course) and worked up/down to scotchbrite. Then I applied adhesion promotor designed for chrome before applying paint. It still looked great the day I traded it in 2014.
3. On that same 2007 Ram I pulled the chrome emblems off, blasted them with silica beads and then painted them (no primer or adhesion promotor) and they looked brand new until I sold the truck too.

The attached image is that 2007 Ram in 2010. As you can see the grille, bumper and emblems were still holding up after 3 years, and they continued to for at least 4 more after that.

Thank you, I copied this information, and will pass it on to whoever I get to paint it for me !!

 

[Shots]

You're welcome, glad to help.

 

[Mountain Whiskey]

Don't think the "chrome" on cheap plastic bags is the same as chrome plating on metal. Rustoleum is your friend.

 

[Shots]

Oh it's definitely not the same on the badges or grille as it was the bumper. The bumper was what you'd typically expect of chrome. You can sand pretty aggressively without getting to the metal beneath it.
The stuff on plastic (grille and emblems) is very thin and will peel/flake if you get too aggressive and sand through to the plastic. You almost have to bead blast an emblem to get a "rough" surface for the paint to bond with. Sanding the plastic grille only worked because there's not a lot of small tight corners to get into. It was basically a bunch of straight flat areas and the adhesion promotor undoubtedly helped too.
For emblems I'd stick with bead blasting or buy black ones and repaint the color you want. Too much work to sand multiple emblems as thorough as they'll need. Although I suppose it could be done if you're patient enough. If a properly prepped chrome/plastic grille can be painted a chrome/plastic emblem should be too.