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Car audio upgrade

Ryan6900

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So I'm in a dilemma. I have the Limited 5.7 with etorque and Harmon Kardon system. I am getting rid of the Harmon Kardon and installing about 3000 watts in the truck. I dont know if this will be too much and cause my lights to dim as you sometimes see. I was going to upgrade to a high output alternator, but didn't know my truck has no alternator. I know the etorque is 48 volts. Is it enough to carry the amperage of the sound system? If not, how can I get more amperage?
 

Ellisstrong

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Have you thought about just adding subs and changing the factory speakers our? I have a 1500 watt mono amp with the 3, 10’s and it sounds great
 

DennisY

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3,000 watts? That is peak, right? Not RMS.
 

Darius

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I wanted more than what the HK system had to offer. Surely there's a way.
Man I couldn’t agree more ...I’m lookin for more myself ....I already know exactly what I want ....I wanna add an extra battery but does that 48
V box support it all.
 

brewmastr

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The 48v system is BOSS for this, way better than a non e-torque. I have been doing aftermarket audio for years and right now I have a Mosconi PRO 5/30 (5 channel amp) and Mosconi PRO 4/10 (4 channel amp bridged to 2 channels) installed with Audiofrog 3-way front stage and JL stealth box. The voltage stays rock solid at 14.2 volts with everything at full tilt, and when the vehicle performs eco start/stop the voltage will drop to 13.3 volts and float off the 48v battery, and depending on load it may go back up to 14.1 all with the engine not running, never drops below 13.3. You have nothing to worry about. The charging logic with the E-torque out performs a conventional 12V system by far.
 

Quint

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I have no idea what you just said, except that the charging system is stout. Now if I could only figure out all of this audio stuff myself. Time for me to do some research...
 

brian42

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Add a capacitor and that will help. The issue isn't that your charging system can't handle the amperage it is that your alternator can't handle the quick current draw of the bass. Adding a capacitor will put that "reserve" in there to supplement the electrical system for that quick current draw and "level out" the work put on the alternator.
 

Silent Bob

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I have no idea what you just said, except that the charging system is stout. Now if I could only figure out all of this audio stuff myself. Time for me to do some research...

For the do-it-yourselfer with limited modern car audio/video experience there is always Crutchfield.


 

brewmastr

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there is absolutely zero need for capacitor or charging system upgrade whatsoever with the etorque vehicles.
 

minmar10

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What exactly do I need if I am adding subs and a amp? I have the factory alpine system. I have read a few threads talking about the ANC and bypassing it, but I’m still a little confused on what I need. Thanks for the help.
 

Darius

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The 48v system is BOSS for this, way better than a non e-torque. I have been doing aftermarket audio for years and right now I have a Mosconi PRO 5/30 (5 channel amp) and Mosconi PRO 4/10 (4 channel amp bridged to 2 channels) installed with Audiofrog 3-way front stage and JL stealth box. The voltage stays rock solid at 14.2 volts with everything at full tilt, and when the vehicle performs eco start/stop the voltage will drop to 13.3 volts and float off the 48v battery, and depending on load it may go back up to 14.1 all with the engine not running, never drops below 13.3. You have nothing to worry about. The charging logic with the E-torque out performs a conventional 12V system by far.
That’s great info thanks man
 

DontDodgeJustRam

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Have you thought about just adding subs and changing the factory speakers our? I have a 1500 watt mono amp with the 3, 10’s and it sounds great
Does anything rattle with such a large sub system? Specifically the overhead control panel or doors? I had this issue in my 4th gen and wanting to know it is still a problem before i get an aftermarket sub installed in my 5th gen
 

Ellisstrong

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Does anything rattle with such a large sub system? Specifically the overhead control panel or doors? I had this issue in my 4th gen and wanting to know it is still a problem before i get an aftermarket sub installed in my 5th gen
My doors rattle slightly now but it’s from the door speakers not my subs... No rattling from anywhere else
 

FishOn

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+1 on the cap. I don't know anything about the E-Torque trucks but a cap is cheap insurance.
 

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