Can’t get passenger side CV axle OFF. Can’t get drivers side back ON. So it’s parked for now.

[Cajuntec]

I tackled the CV axle / front hub bearing change today. Instructions were fairly straightforward. Got to the point that I needed to remove the CV axle from the passenger side and it’s not coming off. I squirted Kroil into the CV axle splines with a syringe and in no time it was moving and wiggling like crazy… but it won’t come off. I’m thinking the c clip is rusted in place and won’t move enough for the axle to slide off. Played with it for hours. Even took a long bar and pounded on it with a hammer for a while. Nothing.

I saw some videos on here where people took off the intermediate housing / shaft and rebuilt that. Hoping I won’t have to go that far, but I figured I’d take it apart anyway to see if I could get the CV axle and the intermediate shaft to separate in the comfort of my shaded garage. 4 bolts up front, plus two big bolts on top holding it to the frame… annnnnnnnnd… nothing moved. Not sure if it’s just a super tight friction fit, or if I missed a bolt somewhere, but it wouldn’t budge. I moved the truck so much yanking on it, I was getting nervous it might come off the jack stands. I know when I’m beat (at least for the day). Reassembled everything and switched to the passenger side.

Now the passenger side came out pretty easy - except when it did, the shaft inside the differential came out with it! I was able to use a little fork to break the shaft and the CV axle apart with a few hammer taps. I had a hard time getting it to slide back into the differential, but eventually lightly tapped it with a rubber mallet and it slipped right back into place. But now I’m concerned that maybe I should have replaced the seal on the differential when that shaft came out. Or that that shaft shouldn’t have come out like that and I have more issues. Thoughts on any of that?

I tried to put the new CV axle on, but it would go about halfway on and get to the point that the C clip is, and stop. No amount of wiggling would get it to slip on, and I didn’t want to pound on a new CV axle with anything. So I changed the bearing / hub, reassembled everything without the CV shaft, and shut it down for the night. Old muscles are aching. Wondering if that C clip needs replacing after removing the old CV shaft???

 

[Cajuntec]

Anyone tackle this job (that knows some tricks)???

 

[HSKR R/T]

Anyone tackle this job (that knows some tricks)???

Mine were easy, but I did have dealer replaced passenger side under warranty a few weeks before I tackled installing the Trakmotive extended travel CV axles drivers side popped right out, and new one slide right back on. Passenger side took a little more to get it to pop off, but that might be because the c-clip was new. And I did have to tap it back on some. Make sure to put some grease on the splines when reassembling

 

[Cajuntec]

Well… I’m making headway. I ordered new C clips to replace the ones on the shafts, greased it up lightly and popped the drivers side on today.

Discovered when I was checking torque specs for reattaching the upper / lower ball joints and tie rod that you aren’t supposed to reuse the fasteners… so another trip to the dealer parts department this week.

I bought a 10 lb slide hammer and CV axle remover tool set to tackle the passenger side on Saturday. Going to re-oil the junction on Friday and hopefully get this job finished.

Torque specs are confusing though. I’ve never run into ft lbs PLUS another number with the degrees sign after it. Have no idea what to do about that, as a google search resulted in multiple conflicting directions. But I need a new torque wrench anyway, as mine tops out at 150 and the CV axle nut called for 184 ft lbs.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Well… I’m making headway. I ordered new C clips to replace the ones on the shafts, greased it up lightly and popped the drivers side on today.

Discovered when I was checking torque specs for reattaching the upper / lower ball joints and tie rod that you aren’t supposed to reuse the fasteners… so another trip to the dealer parts department this week.

I bought a 10 lb slide hammer and CV axle remover tool set to tackle the passenger side on Saturday. Going to re-oil the junction on Friday and hopefully get this job finished.

Torque specs are confusing though. I’ve never run into ft lbs PLUS another number with the degrees sign after it. Have no idea what to do about that, as a google search resulted in multiple conflicting directions. But I need a new torque wrench anyway, as mine tops out at 150 and the CV axle nut called for 184 ft lbs.

No need to replace hardware for ball joints or tie rods. Not sure where you read that the torque isn't that high on either of those. As for cV axle nut, I just hit it good with my Milwaukee 1/2" drive impact and called it good

 

[Cajuntec]

No need to replace hardware for ball joints or tie rods. Not sure where you read that the torque isn't that high on either of those. As for cV axle nut, I just hit it good with my Milwaukee 1/2" drive impact and called it good

My upper ball joint nut separated from the attached washer. It’s beveled into the washer so it’s attached together. I wanted to at least replace that one, and figured while I’m at it… just do all three on each side.

I was told not to use an impact when putting on the new half shaft nut, as it could damage the hub bearing. I just replaced the hub / bearing assembly, so I didn’t want to take chances of damaging that new unit. I need a newer / better torque wrench anyway. I’ve had this one for going on 30 years or so. I could think of worse things to spend my money on than new tools.

All the best,
Glenn