Brown Sludge on Coolant Dipstick?

[Gearhead54]

I totally agree with your desire to have the coolant flushed. Should be part of the service for fixing the issue

Also, the part that was replace doesn't have any extra warranty.. not even a year for this replacement. When my powertrain warranty ends in April, so does the warranty for this new oil cooler...

 

[silver billet]

I just got off the phone with the service advisor. Tech did a pressure test and found that the oil cooler failed allowing oil to get into the coolant and radiator. He said they ordered a new radiator, oil cooler and all hoses to replace.

He said the oil coolers fail on the 2019’s frequently due to the design. He said Ram changed the design starting 2021 and that I will be getting the new design.

Do you have a part number for the new design? I'd like to swap mine out before it causes problems.

 

[gpbst3]

Is there a simple way to tell if this sludge is an oil cooler leak?

 

[Mingusth]

I've been checking the coolant dip stick maybe every two months. Levels have been good and no sludge that I can recall.

Anyone have a pic of the sludge?

 

[kpad80008]

2019 Ram 1500 5.7 94k miles

Noticed there was a lot of coolant dripping from the front passenger side. After inspection it seemed like it was just coolant but then realized it was a mix between coolant and oil. Checked oil dipstick and it was close to empty. (Changed oil a week before this) so there was a cross contamination after all. After multiple threads it was concluded it could be a head gasket or the oil cooler. Had a trusted mechanic come and we diagnosed that the oil cooler failed causing the oil to go into the coolant. The leak was due to the coolant reservoir being overfilled of the added oil which made it spill out on the front side.

Mechanic is coming tomorrow to flush and replace oil cooler. I saw a few folks say it’s 2019 ram know issues. Wonder how this happens…

 

[Dallas Aggie]

Do you have a part number for the new design? I'd like to swap mine out before it causes problems.

Sorry I don’t, but it’s my understanding the improved one is the only one available.

 

[pinkertonfloyd]

So I just had this issue, and here's what I found out talking to the mechanic.
This is a common issue with "Dexcool" type coolants... and yes, RAM might make it purple, but it's just their Dexcool (OAT Based) formula, minus the GM badging. (GM's patent has long run out).
When I told him about others on forums having dealers say it's "fix a leak" (said must be greenhorns or oil techs to have that opinion) or mixed types, he said bs it's been a known issue since the 2000's in GM, and as Ford and Mopar switched in 12-13 started there...) (And the mixed stuff... usually gels, not like the poop, and it's more common in the G12/13 types). Also if you are afraid of oil, they just take some of it and look for a rainbow "oil slick"... no slick... no oil.

Dexcool, when exposed to air (and this is well documented, just google "dexcool issues") turns into this "baby poop" like substance... basically as the water evaporates, it starts to crystalize into this err.. "crap". This is BY DESIGN as a leak-stop... but our systems aren't "sealed" so the overflow tanks are the first to do this due to the amount of air... (and ours are oversized on top of that... with a large surface area) and the "dipstick" (dumb design) gives it something to wick and attach the crystals to...

Problem is this can get back into the system and clog the radiator, but more specifically the heater core... and I'm told the heater core in our trucks is a PITA full dash-out job.

So I was told the best thing to do is to have it flushed (not just a drain and refill) with Valvoline (Chemical) Flush (or similar), and replaced with a more conventual universal coolant, like Xerex/Valvoline Maxlife, which is what he did (was $150 otd).

It won't turn into baby poop (he guarantees it, and so does Valvoline, nationwide...) , and won't hurt the vehicle either. Yes, it's marketed as *ONLY* 5/150K stuff... but it works, and doesn't make things worse like the Dexcool (which GM is pushing at 15Y/400K... they don't care... warranty is long over.

They also told me that most Dealerships do NOT replace with OEM coolant, they are also using either Valvoline or BG in my area... (You can look it up on their websites, and my local automall shows every dealership is one or the other, or both...)

So others have complained about going to a shop and making sure they use the Mopar stuff... in his opinion... it's the worse thing you can do... the "Multiple Application" Maxlife is a far superior coolant... just replace it every 5 years... which is about the true life of the Maxcool... and it doesn't sludge or void warranties...

So the fix... fully flush, dump the OAT/Dexcool/MOPAR, and just fill with a high-quality universal coolant that the chemical manufacture recommends (IE: Valvoline/Xerex, or similar).

 

[Grape_Ape]

So I just had this issue, and here's what I found out talking to the mechanic.
This is a common issue with "Dexcool" type coolants... and yes, RAM might make it purple, but it's just their Dexcool (OAT Based) formula, minus the GM badging. (GM's patent has long run out).
When I told him about others on forums having dealers say it's "fix a leak" (said must be greenhorns or oil techs to have that opinion) or mixed types, he said bs it's been a known issue since the 2000's in GM, and as Ford and Mopar switched in 12-13 started there...) (And the mixed stuff... usually gels, not like the poop, and it's more common in the G12/13 types). Also if you are afraid of oil, they just take some of it and look for a rainbow "oil slick"... no slick... no oil.

Dexcool, when exposed to air (and this is well documented, just google "dexcool issues") turns into this "baby poop" like substance... basically as the water evaporates, it starts to crystalize into this err.. "crap". This is BY DESIGN as a leak-stop... but our systems aren't "sealed" so the overflow tanks are the first to do this due to the amount of air... (and ours are oversized on top of that... with a large surface area) and the "dipstick" (dumb design) gives it something to wick and attach the crystals to...

Problem is this can get back into the system and clog the radiator, but more specifically the heater core... and I'm told the heater core in our trucks is a PITA full dash-out job.

So I was told the best thing to do is to have it flushed (not just a drain and refill) with Valvoline (Chemical) Flush (or similar), and replaced with a more conventual universal coolant, like Xerex/Valvoline Maxlife, which is what he did (was $150 otd).

It won't turn into baby poop (he guarantees it, and so does Valvoline, nationwide...) , and won't hurt the vehicle either. Yes, it's marketed as *ONLY* 5/150K stuff... but it works, and doesn't make things worse like the Dexcool (which GM is pushing at 15Y/400K... they don't care... warranty is long over.

They also told me that most Dealerships do NOT replace with OEM coolant, they are also using either Valvoline or BG in my area... (You can look it up on their websites, and my local automall shows every dealership is one or the other, or both...)

So others have complained about going to a shop and making sure they use the Mopar stuff... in his opinion... it's the worse thing you can do... the "Multiple Application" Maxlife is a far superior coolant... just replace it every 5 years... which is about the true life of the Maxcool... and it doesn't sludge or void warranties...

So the fix... fully flush, dump the OAT/Dexcool/MOPAR, and just fill with a high-quality universal coolant that the chemical manufacture recommends (IE: Valvoline/Xerex, or similar).

I completely flushed my Mazda and went back in with the Peak 10yr. It's been doing great thus far. Probably do that on my truck once I hit 100k. I've not had a single issue with my coolant gelling or running hot since I saw this many miles ago. Thanks for the write up.

 

[Gearhead54]

I totally agree with your desire to have the coolant flushed. Should be part of the service for fixing the issue

I called the dealer again that never called me back the first time. My current issue is the headline was wet. They had no info saved from first time I called. Even though I spoke to the same person. I called the dealer that replaced the oiler cooler. Made an appointment for water leak and to replace 3rd brake light under its extended warranty. I showed up and the forgot my appointment....... the service writer clerk had ordered the brake light and the mechanics were busy so he went and changed it. He also said it's the back glass frame is cracked. Out of warranty and I'm SOL. Only fix was to replace the whole thing. I have given up hope for both dealers in my area. I'll just goop the back glass. It will match the quality of this truck.

 

[ThatAirRideThough]

I smell mine up by the grille each time I shut it off and walk by. I might try and flush it like this guy did:

 

[Gearhead54]

I smell mine up by the grille each time I shut it off and walk by. I might try and flush it like this guy did:

Yeah, mine smells like coolant even after the fix. Engine doesn't overheat. I hate this truck runs at 200-210F and not 180F

 

[MotorcycleBoy]

... this truck runs at 200-210F and not 180F

my new truck (2022 ltd e-torque) is 3 weeks old and 4,000 km.
It runs ok and the coolant temperature (with warm engine) is always between 95 and 105 C. (203 - 221 F)
At 221 F the electric fan starts.
the dealer says everything is normal (no smell).
All this even today when the weather was quite cold.... around 39 degrees F

 

[HSKR R/T]

Yeah, mine smells like coolant even after the fix. Engine doesn't overheat. I hate this truck runs at 200-210F and not 180F

Why would you want it to run at 180 degrees? The factory installed thermostat is a 203 degree thermostat. It's designed and tuned to run at those temps. Actually more efficient combustion that way.