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Brake pad replacement only.

Darkenuf

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Has anybody done pads only on their Rebel?
Which brand did you choose
 
Not a Rebel, but I did new front pads after I accidentally contaminated my factory pads (trying to be lazy with getting rid of the infamous brake clip squeak).

I used Power Stop Z362179 pads, new clips, and some quality grease between the clips and the brackets. Had them for about 10k miles now, roughly. No noise, no complaints.
 
My truck goes in tomorrow for a clunk and brake clip squeak. It's not a big deal to fix myself, except I can't loosen the caliper bolts. I even used a breaker bar with a 2' extension. The bolts barely moved. I'm not risking the bolts snapping off, so I want the dealer to fix these simple issues. I'm assuming nobody else has experienced this?
 
I am basically changing the pads and hardware because anything the dealer does will only last a few weeks. The anti rattle clips on the Mopar pads are a bad design. As for the clunk it's the swaybar endlinks I have some on order but they are heavily backorder because they were redesigned due to the amount of failed units being replaced under warranty.

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Maybe things have changed, but I was always taught if you put in new pads, you turned the rotors to make sure they were smooth and even. (and years before that, turned the drums when replacing the shoes)

So nowadays you can just change the pads and ignore the rotors???

Dave
 
Maybe things have changed, but I was always taught if you put in new pads, you turned the rotors to make sure they were smooth and even. (and years before that, turned the drums when replacing the shoes)

So nowadays you can just change the pads and ignore the rotors???

Dave
Ideally yes, but rotors and pads are different enough these days that it doesn't seem to matter as much as it used to. On some vehicles it is cheaper to replace the rotors than to have someone turn them. I do all my own brake work on my vehicles, and I haven't turned my rotors in years. I do occasionally take a die grinder with an abrasive pad to them if they are glazed or grooved, but not always. Generally a little fine grit paper and some brake cleaner, lube the slides, and bolt it all back up. Having said all that, I haven't put enough miles on my Rams that they needed pads, so I might learn a lesson or two when that time comes :)
 
In Canada where I live you will find it difficult to get rotors turned because that makes the shop liable for any warpage or vibration.

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk
 
I am basically changing the pads and hardware because anything the dealer does will only last a few weeks. The anti rattle clips on the Mopar pads are a bad design. As for the clunk it's the swaybar endlinks I have some on order but they are heavily backorder because they were redesigned due to the amount of failed units being replaced under warranty.

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk
Are they the front or rear swaybar endlinks?
 
Front links

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Maybe things have changed, but I was always taught if you put in new pads, you turned the rotors to make sure they were smooth and even. (and years before that, turned the drums when replacing the shoes)

So nowadays you can just change the pads and ignore the rotors???

Dave. GMC brake pads replacement in Dubai
Hello. Recently had my 2019 SQ5 in for 40K service at audi and recommendation was to replace both front AND rear rotors and pads. Pads have 2mm rear, 4mm front (no sensors have been tripped yet). Neither have been yet changed on this car (lots of freeway driving). Trying to figure out what to do - and if it's necessary to be changing BOTH FRONT AND REAR ROTORS out as well at 40K. What have you done ? Dealer wants $2500+ for entire swap.
 
Regarding Audi, I'd get a second opinion. They told me I needed tires when my S4 had only 10k miles. They also charge $275 for an oil change.

I always replace the rotors when doing brakes only to prevent having to do an intermittent service on the rotors. While you're in there, replace the rotors. Turning the rotors removes material that could make the surface too thin to properly dissipate the heat. I do my own brakes, so it's fairly inexpensive to do. If you take it somewhere, do it outside a dealership as they charge way too much.
 
Hello. Recently had my 2019 SQ5 in for 40K service at audi and recommendation was to replace both front AND rear rotors and pads. Pads have 2mm rear, 4mm front (no sensors have been tripped yet). Neither have been yet changed on this car (lots of freeway driving). Trying to figure out what to do - and if it's necessary to be changing BOTH FRONT AND REAR ROTORS out as well at 40K. What have you done ? Dealer wants $2500+ for entire swap.
Audi's chew through brakes way faster than these Ram's. Cannot compare one vehicle to another. I have never owned a vehicle whos brakes have lasted as long as they have on my 19 Ram, 80k miles and still more meat on the pads than my audi with 18k miles.
 
I have Z36 pads on my truck and they are better than stock especially if you lean on them. Little to no dust.

I installed some Napa higher end pads in a pinch and the clips/pad design was garbage. Rattled over bumps like bad sway bar end links.

Been great since the Z36 install. Power stop said as long as you follow their bed in procedure you can install them on already used rotors if the rotors aren’t warped or badly worn etc.
 

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