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Blackstone oil analysis, high iron and copper only have 22k miles on engine

silver billet

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Man stop.
I put 277k miles on my last hemi with absolutely no engine issues aside from a broken valve spring.
This engine isn't made of glass nor need special treatment.
You can prefer to wear blinders if you wish. That doesn't change the fact that lifter failure is very real and very common on these engines.

Change the oil on time with quality oil and the hemi will run as long as any other engine.
People need to stop pretending this engine is some glass slipper.
Your reference to quality oil is at odds with your preference for 0w-20. Changing the oil on time and running a 5w-30 is great start to mitigating your risk for tick.
 
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Scram1500

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Definitely take the Blackstone results with a grain of salt. The machines that analyze for metals (inductively coupled plasma) are notorious for being very sensitive and drift all over the place. Never mind the problems with sample preparation
 

silver billet

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Definitely take the Blackstone results with a grain of salt. The machines that analyze for metals (inductively coupled plasma) are notorious for being very sensitive and drift all over the place. Never mind the problems with sample preparation

That's not true, just on bitog today there is a thread where iron started trending up quite high and after pulling out the cam it was clearly damaged on the lobs.
 

Scram1500

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That's not true, just on bitog today there is a thread where iron started trending up quite high and after pulling out the cam it was clearly damaged on the lobs.
My point about the ICP is that the results can vary quite a bit. 100 ppm of Iron could easily show up as 150 ppm or 50 ppm.

As you noted however multiple data points will produce a trend and that's were the analysis becomes valuable.
 

BowDown

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You can prefer to wear blinders if you wish. That doesn't change the fact that lifter failure is very real and very common on these engines.


Your reference to quality oil is at odds with your preference for 0w-20. Changing the oil on time and running a 5w-30 is great start to mitigating your risk for tick.

Lol, quality oil comes in all flavors but 0w-20 lol, okay.
And lifter failures, how many lifter failures in the millions of late model hemis? And why?

I'd venture a guess that most lifter failures were a maintenance issue vs oil causing it. Do you know how lifters work? Do you know how the mds lifters work? Do you know the main cause of lifter failures in all modern engines?
 

BowDown

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My point about the ICP is that the results can vary quite a bit. 100 ppm of Iron could easily show up as 150 ppm or 50 ppm.

As you noted however multiple data points will produce a trend and that's were the analysis becomes valuable.
I agree, people put way to much credibility in what Blackstone labs report. Those reports are all over the place, I would never use that as a sole source of engine health. Hell, I'd cut open a used oil filter and before id rely on Blackstone.

Matter of fact, OP, cut open your oil filter and look at the filter media. With the oil completely drained from the filter, the media should be a tan color. Stretch it out on a table and you should easily be able to see any trash collected
 

silver billet

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Lol, quality oil comes in all flavors but 0w-20 lol, okay.

0w-20 protects less than 5w-30. This is a simple fact. Many on bitog, for example, prefer an oil with an HT/HS >= 3.5 which you won't find in any 0w-20.

And lifter failures, how many lifter failures in the millions of late model hemis? And why?

I'd venture a guess that most lifter failures were a maintenance issue vs oil causing it.

You're welcome to your guess. For the second time, explain to me the logic of using an oil with less protection (0w-20) when it is literally the same price to use the 5w-30 variant instead. There is literally 0 advantage to using oil with less protection, why use it then? What is the downside in your mind of using 5w-30?
 

BowDown

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0w-20 protects less than 5w-30. This is a simple fact. Many on bitog, for example, prefer an oil with an HT/HS >= 3.5 which you won't find in any 0w-20.



You're welcome to your guess. For the second time, explain to me the logic of using an oil with less protection (0w-20) when it is literally the same price to use the 5w-30 variant instead. There is literally 0 advantage to using oil with less protection, why use it then? What is the downside in your mind of using 5w-30?

A, you haven't explained a thing or verified anything you've stated.
B, I already explained it as well as provided a link validating my comment.
C, Do what you want, wann use 5w-30, knock yourself out.
D, It's your truck, I don't care but don't come in here spreading bull:poop: acting like the 5.7 is made of crystal and will fail from 5-20 or 0w-20.

Oh yeah, D, factually back up that the lifters failures are common on Gen 3 HEMI's. Not just what you read on some YouTube chat or Facebook, actual facts
 
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silver billet

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A, you haven't explained a thing or verified anything you've stated.
B, I already explained it as well as provided a link validating my comment.
C, Do what you want
D, It's your truck, I don't care but don't come in here spreading bull:poop:

5w-30 offers more protection vs 0w-20. That's not BS, it's a fact. So the question remains, why do you pick a 0w-20 which offers less protection, when 5w-30 is available at no extra cost to you and offers more protection? You even recommend running a quality oil, clearly 5w-30 is one aspect (and a major one at that) when picking a better/higher quality oil
 

BowDown

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5w-30 offers more protection vs 0w-20. That's not BS, it's a fact. So the question remains, why do you pick a 0w-20 which offers less protection, when 5w-30 is available at no extra cost to you and offers more protection? You even recommend running a quality oil, clearly 5w-30 is one aspect (and a major one at that) when picking a better/higher quality oil

I never said it didn't, I said the increase in protection isn't necessary and that 20 was fine for 99% of owners RIF but so point out where I said differently.

Also, post validation that lifters failures are common on Gen 3 HEMI's.

Now, let me educate you since you never answered my question of you under standing how lifters function.

Modem lifters have bleed valves and passages in which oil needs to travel thorough to function correctly. These passages and valves are sensitive to oil flow and blockage, specifically, the MDS lifters on all makes. Too much viscosity and the lefter doesn't pump up or bleed off correctly resulting in excessive valve lash or hanging valves slightly open burning a valve .

Aftermarket lifer maker Morel actually strongly recommends noore than 5w-30 in its LS high rpm lifters because of of bleed down requirements. Excessive oil viscosity can cause premature lifter failures, wonder howany of your alleged "common lifter failures" in HEMI's had a heavier weight oil?
Hmmmmmm.
Go ahead and telle again about the insignificant consequences of heavier weight oil brainiac.

Like I said, use what you want but don't bring that weak *** :poop: up in this humpity bumpity!!! Wooooooooooo
 

silver billet

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I never said it didn't, I said the increase in protection isn't necessary and that 20 was fine for 99% of owners RIF but so point out where I said differently.

You even said you should run a quality oil, 5w-30 is definitely a higher quality oil. Why wouldn't you choose that over 0w-20 when there is no disadvantage to doing so?

Also, post validation that lifters failures are common on Gen 3 HEMI's.

Now, let me educate you since you never answered my question of you under standing how lifters function.

Modem lifters have bleed valves and passages in which oil needs to travel thorough to function correctly. These passages and valves are sensitive to oil flow and blockage, specifically, the MDS lifters on all makes.

That's not accurate. There are many lifter failures in hemis that don't have MDS at all (challengers with the 6.4 manual), and MDS was present on hemis since like 2006, though hemi tick/lifter failure hasn't been an issue until the 2009 revision.

Too much viscosity and the lefter doesn't pump up or bleed off correctly resulting in excessive valve lash or hanging valves slightly open burning a valve .

Aftermarket lifer maker Morel actually strongly recommends noore than 5w-30 in its LS high rpm lifters because of of bleed down requirements. Excessive oil viscosity can cause premature lifter failures, wonder howany of your alleged "common lifter failures" in HEMI's had a heavier weight oil?
Hmmmmmm.
Go ahead and telle again about the insignificant consequences of heavier weight oil brainiac.

Like I said, use what you want but don't bring that weak *** :poop: up in this humpity bumpity!!! Wooooooooooo

This is also incorrect. See above, the hemi hasn't changed in that regard since 2005 and there are very specific years where the tick is worst: 2009 - 2014-ish. Clearly it's a parts/manufacturing defect issue, which you can mitigate by running high quality oils with high HT/HS, high anti wear ingredients (like moly), high detergents and solvents to keep everything clean, then changing oil frequently.
 

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You even said you should run a quality oil, 5w-30 is definitely a higher quality oil. Why wouldn't you choose that over 0w-20 when there is no disadvantage to doing so?



That's not accurate. There are many lifter failures in hemis that don't have MDS at all (challengers with the 6.4 manual), and MDS was present on hemis since like 2006, though hemi tick/lifter failure hasn't been an issue until the 2009 revision.



This is also incorrect. See above, the hemi hasn't changed in that regard since 2005 and there are very specific years where the tick is worst: 2009 - 2014-ish. Clearly it's a parts/manufacturing defect issue, which you can mitigate by running high quality oils with high HT/HS, high anti wear ingredients (like moly), high detergents and solvents to keep everything clean, then changing oil frequently.

Yet you've not posted one link to common lifter failures in the hemi.
I never said the oil functionality was limited to MDS lifters.
Where'd I say the hemi has changed? Are you read 2 different topics or need glasses?

I did say run a quality oil, 5w, 0w are quality oils and the link I provided substantiate that, you've provided zero aside from your opinion and mow you try to twist things around that were never said to make yourself look correct. 🤣😂

Here's a thought, run 5w-30 in your truck, no one cares
 

silver billet

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Yet you've not posted one link to common lifter failures in the hemi.
Well when someone vehemently tells me the earth is flat I'm not going to try and find proof for them that it isn't, its kind of wasted effort don't you think?

It's a 10 second google search though, you just have to do that journey on your own.

I never said the oil functionality was limited to MDS lifters.
Where'd I say the hemi has changed? Are you read 2 different topics or need glasses?
I didn't say you said it changed. I said it hasn't changed, yet we have specific years where lifter failure is much more common.

In other words: if the design hasn't changed, yet there are specific years where its worse, then clearly it's not a design issue.
I did say run a quality oil, 5w, 0w are quality oils
xw is the winter rating. You pick that based on how cold it gets in your area. The important part is the "w-30".

and the link I provided substantiate that, you've provided zero aside from your opinion and mow you try to twist things around that were never said to make yourself look correct. 🤣😂

Here's a thought, run 5w-30 in your truck, no one cares

Then why are you still arguing here?
 

BowDown

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Well when someone vehemently tells me the earth is flat I'm not going to try and find proof for them that it isn't, its kind of wasted effort don't you think?

It's a 10 second google search though, you just have to do that journey on your own.


I didn't say you said it changed. I said it hasn't changed, yet we have specific years where lifter failure is much more common.

In other words: if the design hasn't changed, yet there are specific years where its worse, then clearly it's not a design issue.

xw is the winter rating. You pick that based on how cold it gets in your area. The important part is the "w-30".



Then why are you still arguing here?

I'm not arguing with you, I'm laughing at you captain no facts🤣 🤡
 

Wire4money

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5w-30 offers more protection vs 0w-20. That's not BS, it's a fact. So the question remains, why do you pick a 0w-20 which offers less protection, when 5w-30 is available at no extra cost to you and offers more protection? You even recommend running a quality oil, clearly 5w-30 is one aspect (and a major one at that) when picking a better/higher quality oil
Why stop at 5w-30? Why not 20w-50? It offers more protection. I will install what the engineers deemed my engine needs. If I am wrong, I have a warranty to cover me.
 

SD Rebel

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Wow, oil threads never fail to deliver.

That being said, it's clear thicker oil does offer better overall protection than a thinner oil. However, until I can confirm (which I am working on now) that the thicker oil doesn't interfere with upper valvetrain lubrication (which has been mentioned by certain engine builders on the Hemi), I'm going to stick with the OEM recommendation.

In the end, the issues that happen with the Hemi 5.7L may not be even associated with the oil weight, but simply faulty parts, such as the roller bearings that I remember reading have a 10% failure rate due to manufacture.
 

silver billet

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Why stop at 5w-30? Why not 20w-50? It offers more protection. I will install what the engineers deemed my engine needs. If I am wrong, I have a warranty to cover me.

The engine wasn't originally calling for 5w-30 before CAFE standards started pushing it down, and because according to the experts a HT/HS of 3.5 provides great protection beyond which is diminishing returns. You can however run 5w-40 or 0w-40 without any issues as well, I've run mobil 1 0w-40 last summer, it's a really great oil.

20w is too viscous for the temperatures I see.
 

Mountain Whiskey

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I am far from an expert but I don't think viscosity equals quality. I mean you can buy Quaker Sludge dino-oil in the same viscosity as Mobile One synthetic but I don't think they are the same quality.

I'll stick with a weight close to the manufacturer recommended in synthetic and call it a day. Really in my 1500 that is whatever the shop I go to uses.
 

bigdodge

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5w-30 offers more protection vs 0w-20. That's not BS, it's a fact. So the question remains, why do you pick a 0w-20 which offers less protection, when 5w-30 is available at no extra cost to you and offers more protection? You even recommend running a quality oil, clearly 5w-30 is one aspect (and a major one at that) when picking a better/higher quality oil
you have a 2019 correct?
what degree do you have that as a 2022 owner I should run something different then the engineers say I should run?


this does not seem to back up your comment "That"s not BS"
 

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