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Blackstone oil analysis, high iron and copper only have 22k miles on engine

pcar

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Finally got around to sending off one of my samples for a report. I've been consistent with changing the oil at 5k intervals. Running penzoil platinum or penzoil ultra platinum depending on what i could get at the time. Always ran a stock mopar filter. Iron and copper are higher than any sample i've had on any of my vehicles. I tow a 5k travel trailer in the summer. Kicking myself for not sending out for oil reports earlier so i had some benchmarks on this vehicle. I plan on changing the oil again 3-4k miles from now to see if there is a change and hoping this is an anomaly. I've got the 5.7 with the etorque. With summer travel trailer season coming up not sure if i should be worried or not.

may 23 blackstone report redacted.jpg
 

silver billet

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I'd post that over on "bobistheoilguy" forum, it's a forum dedicated to oil and they may be able to help out.

My gut feeling is that is not good. I've seen a bunch of blackstone reports on the 5.7, unfortunately that iron is really high and would be make very nervous. The highest mine has ever been is 30ppm, and I did my first blackstone report at 7400 miles and I've been doing them ever since.

The copper by itself wouldn't necessarily worry me, that may be leaching out of the heavy duty cooling system in our trucks (other 5.7 hemis in blackstone's database don't come with that cooler so that changes the averages).

But don't take my word for anything, definitely get an expert opinion on bitog. And you may just want to do another oil change at 5000 miles and see if it comes down. If it continues to go up, I'd talk to Ram and get it addressed/documented under warranty if possible.

I'm surprised, actually though. Of the reports I've seen, PUP usually brings home some really low wear numbers.
 

pcar

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I will post over at the bobistheoil guy forum. I'm sorta concerned about the test not being just a bad test because all the other numbers were good.. Just one item was very clear its raising a flag.
 

arod412

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Now it kinda makes me want to check my oils for my ram and charger. I normally change my oils once a year because extremely low miles. I do drive all of them, and nothing sits longer than a week even during the cold north east winters. When I drive them, I get them up to operating Temps.

Had the ram for 1 year 6 months...and 6800 miles

Have the charger going on almost 7 years and 26,500 miles.

2022 Ram Big Horn Back Country
2016 Dodge Charger scat pack
2021 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara
 

Rick3478

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I'm trying to think where copper would be coming from. Copper is pricey, and these days just about everything that doesn't have to be steel is either aluminum or plastic. Bearings?
 

RC Turner

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To me these numbers seem all over the place ranging from very low to very high. I think I would consider that these results might be in error. I would think that more would be out of line if the iron and copper were really that far off of the norm.
 

BowDown

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I'm trying to think where copper would be coming from. Copper is pricey, and these days just about everything that doesn't have to be steel is either aluminum or plastic. Bearings?

Bearing material, crank, rods and cam
 

BowDown

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To me these numbers seem all over the place ranging from very low to very high. I think I would consider that these results might be in error. I would think that more would be out of line if the iron and copper were really that far off of the norm.

Agree, one of the reason I never put much stock in Blackstone results
 

BowDown

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Let me guess, you're running 0W20?

Despite popular belief, 0W-20 lubricates just fine and most certainly wouldn't be the cause of this
 

silver billet

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Despite popular belief, 0W-20 lubricates just fine and most certainly wouldn't be the cause of this

Protection is a scale, 0w-20 protects less than 5w-30. Though I agree that at 21k miles there is no chance PU(P) at 0w-20 caused this.
 

BowDown

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Protection is a scale, 0w-20 protects less than 5w-30. Though I agree that at 21k miles there is no chance PU(P) at 0w-20 caused this.
0w-20 protects less than 5w-30 in certain situations, for 99% of owners, its fine.
A vehicle driving across death valley in the summer with the A/C on travelling at WOT may need more protection and thats even specific to bearing clearances
 

silver billet

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0w-20 protects less than 5w-30 in certain situations, for 99% of owners, its fine.
A vehicle driving across death valley in the summer with the A/C on travelling at WOT may need more protection and thats even specific to bearing clearances

The oil doesn't care about what situation you're in, the higher the viscosity the higher the MOFT, the higher the protection (general rule, other factors like AW additives can play a role but they come into effect once MOFT reaches 0).

You're saying you accept reduced protection as you're truck doesn't work hard, that's fine, that's not the same as saying 20w protects equally well (or better) as 30w.
 

BowDown

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The oil doesn't care about what situation you're in, the higher the viscosity the higher the MOFT, the higher the protection (general rule, other factors like AW additives can play a role but they come into effect once MOFT reaches 0).

You're saying you accept reduced protection as you're truck doesn't work hard, that's fine, that's not the same as saying 20w protects equally well (or better) as 30w.
No, what I'm, saying is exactly what I said 0W-20 is fine for 99% of the cars on the road, your reduced protection comment is like saying you're wearing 3 condoms vs 2.
I use 0w-40 (and I'm only doing that for the added ZDDP for the valvetrain) in my Z06 with a built ERL/Horse Power Research 700+hp NA 434 and it sees wayyy more abuse than this truck ever will, I have no issue with the factory fill 5w-20.
My point was 0w-20 didn't cause the OP's issue nor will it cause any issue in most everyone else's vehicle and honestly, I'd be more concerned with ZDDP than the 0w or the 20. I'm not going to debate it with because I truly don't care..
I posted a link validating 0w-20 for anyone interested but, it's your truck, do with it as you please
 

silver billet

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No, what I'm, saying is exactly what I said 0W-20 is fine for 99% of the cars on the road, your reduced protection comment is like saying you're wearing 3 condoms vs 2.
I use 0w-40 (and I'm only doing that for the added ZDDP for the valvetrain) in my Z06 with a built ERL/Horse Power Research 700+hp NA 434 and it sees wayyy more abuse than this truck ever will, I have no issue with the factory fill 5w-20.
My point was 0w-20 didn't cause the OP's issue nor will it cause any issue in most everyone else's vehicle and honestly, I'd be more concerned with ZDDP than the 0w or the 20. I'm not going to debate it with because I truly don't care..
I posted a link validating 0w-20 for anyone interested but, it's your truck, do with it as you please

You really can't say 0w-20 is fine for 99% of people, that number is just vague hand waving. Because you have no ability to calculate the increased wear over something like 5w-30. Many manufacturers (like toyota) have a global engine and spec far heavier weights in other countries not as concerned about MPG.

There is no downside to running 5w-30. It only has advantages. It doesn't cost anymore to buy, it doesn't cost anymore to run, it doesn't need changing quicker etc etc, so if you want to run an oil that protects less and has no advantage for an individual consumer than yes you do you, as you say its your truck.
 

Mountain Whiskey

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Man, I sure hope my 5.7 isn't the pansymobile you guys make it out to be. I had a 199? Nissan Frontier with an excess of 250k on it that got oil changes with what was on sale when I had time to change it. A Toyota, the same. Ford Ranger with 200k on it. An EXP that I bought for $200 and drove for 2 years without an oil change.

Is the 5.7 truly this frail and delicate of a flower?
 

silver billet

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Man, I sure hope my 5.7 isn't the pansymobile you guys make it out to be. I had a 199? Nissan Frontier with an excess of 250k on it that got oil changes with what was on sale when I had time to change it. A Toyota, the same. Ford Ranger with 200k on it. An EXP that I bought for $200 and drove for 2 years without an oil change.

Is the 5.7 truly this frail and delicate of a flower?

Do a 10 second google search on hemi tick/lifter failure. The hemi is not an engine you want to play games with when it comes to oil unless you don't keep your truck outside of warranty.
 

BowDown

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Man, I sure hope my 5.7 isn't the pansymobile you guys make it out to be. I had a 199? Nissan Frontier with an excess of 250k on it that got oil changes with what was on sale when I had time to change it. A Toyota, the same. Ford Ranger with 200k on it. An EXP that I bought for $200 and drove for 2 years without an oil change.

Is the 5.7 truly this frail and delicate of a flower?

Hell, I used mineral and avocado oil in my last 5.7 hemi, it lasted 277k miles
 

BowDown

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Do a 10 second google search on hemi tick/lifter failure. The hemi is not an engine you want to play games with when it comes to oil unless you don't keep your truck outside of warranty.

Man stop.
I put 277k miles on my last hemi with absolutely no engine issues aside from a broken valve spring.
This engine isn't made of glass nor need special treatment.

Change the oil on time with quality oil and the hemi will run as long as any other engine.
People need to stop pretending this engine is some glass slipper.
 

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