Bed Lighting Kit

[fireberd350]

If I had to guess you are overloading that cargo light circuit by wiring your LEDs directly to it. The BCM expects a certain amount of current draw, exceed that and it thinks something is wrong and shuts it down. Do you know what the amp draw is on your LED lights you wired in? On modern vehicles its good practice to use a relay to add on non OEM items. Use the cargo light circuit to control the relay and pull the device power from a battery power source that isn't regulated by the BCM. The slight power draw of the relay isn't enough to cause problems with BCM circuits.

@JayStein - thank you. This is the hunch i'm running with. I just ordered the Cargo LEDs that OP used which pull less watts (they pull 7w/each vs the Lasfit ones I have at 13w/each). If that doesn't work I also ordered some relays as a final resort. I'll report back soon on progress.

 

[fireberd350]

Replaced the cargo LEDs from LASFIT (13w) to LUYED (7w) and so far everything is working as expected. Surprisingly the light output is comparable if not greater w/ the LUYED.

 

[swing4terps]

Maybe I missed it but I see most are tapping the cargo light in the CHMSL. I would recommend just pin into the existing circuits for the cargo bed lights in the XY670A connector near the rear of the drivers side and above the resonator? Most body harnesses have the two circuits already ran from the BCM and terminate in the XY670A connector. The harness that plugs into the xy670a connector is determined by the options installed (I.E. ram box, cargo bed light, etc). You should be able to just pin terminals 6 and 11 in xy670a for the cargo light drive (beige/white wire) and cargo light switch signal (beige/voilet wire) circuits, then ground to the nearest ground location. Easy peasy, no going into the cab to tap wires.

Additionally, you need to set CBC I/O A5 enabled to yes and CBC I/O G16 enabled to yes in the BCM configuration and the cargo bed lights will be as OEM intended in regards to wiring and function.

If I‘m understanding, doing as you describe would keep all wiring external to the cab and essentially be 100% reversible back to factory, yes?

Is the programming you reference required for operating led strip lights?

 

[JayStein]

If I‘m understanding, doing as you describe would keep all wiring external to the cab and essentially be 100% reversible back to factory, yes?
Is the programming you reference required for operating led strip lights?

Yep. You can verify the circuits exist in those connectors on the frame in the rear. If they do, you're in business. And yes, if you're using LED strips you still need to make the appropriate changes to programming in the BCM. For bed lights to come on when tailgate opens etc.

 

[swing4terps]

Yep. You can verify the circuits exist in those connectors on the frame in the rear. If they do, you're in business. And yes, if you're using LED strips you still need to make the appropriate changes to programming in the BCM. For bed lights to come on when tailgate opens etc.

I misread your original post, seeing (what I wanted to see) “center stop lights” and not what you wrote—cargo bed lights.

Any chance the CHMSL circuit also runs to the same spot so I can avoid programming?

 

[JayStein]

I misread your original post, seeing (what I wanted to see) “center stop lights” and not what you wrote—cargo bed lights.

Any chance the CHMSL circuit also runs to the same spot so I can avoid programming?

Sorry the CHMSL circuit is only ran in the interior. Specifically from BCM along driver side door sill up the B or C pillar to the CHMSL under the headliner. So tapping there is the only option I know of for adding bed lights without programming. But my comment stands about using a relay to power the bed lights and the CHSML circuit to control the relay. Trailer light circuit in the bumper is a good power tap spot.

 

[swing4terps]

Maybe I missed it but I see most are tapping the cargo light in the CHMSL. I would recommend just pin into the existing circuits for the cargo bed lights in the XY670A connector near the rear of the drivers side and above the resonator? Most body harnesses have the two circuits already ran from the BCM and terminate in the XY670A connector. The harness that plugs into the xy670a connector is determined by the options installed (I.E. ram box, cargo bed light, etc). You should be able to just pin terminals 6 and 11 in xy670a for the cargo light drive (beige/white wire) and cargo light switch signal (beige/voilet wire) circuits, then ground to the nearest ground location. Easy peasy, no going into the cab to tap wires.

Additionally, you need to set CBC I/O A5 enabled to yes and CBC I/O G16 enabled to yes in the BCM configuration and the cargo bed lights will be as OEM intended in regards to wiring and function.

@JayStein Appreciate your help thus far. Planning to do this as you described. I confirmed I have the feeds 6 and 11 at that connector. Just need to pin them out.

Purchased a switched aftermarket light kit. Just two wires. Trying to figure out how I need to wire this thing. Do you happen to know how the OEM lights operate? I looked at the OEM kit instructions; it’s just two wires, one per pin. Do I just need to split the hot to each pin out and ground the other?

 

[JayStein]

@JayStein Appreciate your help thus far. Planning to do this as you described. I confirmed I have the feeds 6 and 11 at that connector. Just need to pin them out.

Purchased a switched aftermarket light kit. Just two wires. Trying to figure out how I need to wire this thing. Do you happen to know how the OEM lights operate? I looked at the OEM kit instructions; it’s just two wires, one per pin. Do I just need to split the hot to each pin out and ground the other?

Sorry, I can't say for sure as I used the OEM lights with the switch on the driver side light. It had 3 wires to it, while the passenger side had two wires. If I had to guess the switch on the OEM light is micro controlled to the bcm. So you would only need to use the led drive circuit to control your cargo lights. And of course program on the appropriate functions in the BCM. Then your lights will come on whenever the cargo light comes on.

 

[Snofire]

Installed the lights and ran it to the 12v power on trailer harness. Took about 2hrs not rushing and hiding wires. Only ran 2 of the 3 lights as I need to figure out how to best do it with the hardcover on. Overall I'm happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MSDHQZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1

 

[Bullseyeft]

I just installed lights in my bed on my 21 Bighorn. Total cost was under $60. Below are pictures of the products that I used. They are brighter than factory. I wired them to the switch and installed it in the dash.I have it to illuminate when the lights are on so I don't forget to turn them off and don't need to worry about the factory cargo lights or switch. They are not connected to the factory harness at all.

 

[mhb1638]

I ordered the same switch as you, but the switch leaves a little to work off of...5 prongs. I'll be attempting item 1 on the instructions. My RC bed kit only has two wires as well. Hoping my lights stick to the rhinoliner underneath.....

 

[i_squared_r]

Thanks for the thread. On my 2020 laramie I found that wire and tapped into it. I ran the wire to the driver side tail light where I installed a fuse panel. Then I used the new wire to activate a relay. Therefore not upsetting the delicate electronics of the truck's BCM. I used a nilight bed LED kit. Very bright. Instead of using their hardware, I used 1/2" nylon cable clamps and screwed them into my plastic bed liner. The products I used are below.

The problem I'm having, is the cargo lights don't turn on when the tailgate is opened. Other threads on this forum point to a common problem that can be resolved with AlfaOBD by changing a setting from NO to YES. So that's the next move..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZLWJZLT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RVCFNCK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

harborfreight.com/40-piece-black-nylon-cable-clamp-set-67541.html

 

[Jasonhoopes6]

I worked on it this weekend & have everything wired. While testing the connection to white/ tan wire in the back seat I overloaded the voltage. Computer had Cargo lights locked out for voltage irregularity. Stopped for the evening, waited and drove the next day and it reset, turns on again. Will finish it up tonight with a relay and new lights main power from trailer light, hot. Will go ahead and switch the normal cargo lamps to the Luyed 921 LED which i've seen discussed. Will do some more pictures & video for the next fool who buys a truck w/o cargo Lights Best of luck all.

Devices:
Lights1: https://amzn.to/3QXOrdB
Lights2: https://amzn.to/3MFGasb
Relay: https://amzn.to/3ueAsqV
LED to reduce Cargo light volt/amp usage-
LUYED 921 LED Cargo Light Bulb: https://amzn.to/40zUw30

Other Tools:
Heath Shrink Sleeve w/ Solder: https://amzn.to/3MIs3SW
T-Tap Wire splice Connectors: https://amzn.to/3MIvHw2
In-Line Quick Splice Connector: https://amzn.to/3QCUrqB
Zip tie mounts: https://amzn.to/3SDUOny
Zip Ties 12" Black: https://amzn.to/3u5R3Ni
16 Gauge wire 100ft: https://amzn.to/49wALNM
WIre Loom 1/4"x25ft: https://amzn.to/3FUO7ps
Heat shrink tubing pack: https://amzn.to/3swCIJr

 

[SShadow1974]

So I don't want to wire my bed lights to anything but power. I will be using a switch in the bed to turn them on and off as I want. Any suggestions to an easy place to tap into power that won't send my truck into fits? Computers are great and all, but they sure can be finicky!

 

[ZombieSlayer]

Trailer harness pin 4 power pin 2 ground

 

[Gren71]

read through the thread and here is my plan...im VERY new to the ram so id appreciate it if someone could tell me if im on track or not. The words in bold will be hyperlinks to keep the post a little cleaner looking...probably cleaner looking that any wiring job I will do.

First off: I dont want to mess with ANY trailer wiring. I pull a camper often and wont touch that system for anything other than trailering. I also dont want to wire it to the inside of the truck cab or through the firewall into the BCM like the infotainment kit does, despite that kit being very well put together.

My intention is to get power from the taillight wiring. I have the halogen lights on my truck. Here is what ive seen in this thread as to what wires are power within the tail light harness.

White/beige for left tail lamp
White/voilet for right tail lamp

- Im hoping these are constant power and not just when the hit the unlock button or anything like that. are they? Ill be using these wire taps to access the wire in the drivers side.

- Then HOPING to wire in a separate fuse so i dont accidentally fry something. Im looking at these

- once the fuse is in im going to wire in these lights using this wire to bridge the gap between them and running it along the frame. securing it with zip ties and soldering/shrink wrapping the connections.

- ill use the ground in the rear of the truck near the spare tire that most have used in this thread.

- im also planning to wire in at least this switch and stick it in the same plastic spacer piece where the linked lights will be secure.

- Id also very much like to add this magnetic switch to the push button switch wiring to ensure the lights are out if the bed is closed.

Am I on the right track here?

Ive also considered these lights as an option, but I havent gotten out to the bed to see if I can make them work while using all the other parts linked above.

 

[Goodboy]

read through the thread and here is my plan...im VERY new to the ram so id appreciate it if someone could tell me if im on track or not. The words in bold will be hyperlinks to keep the post a little cleaner looking...probably cleaner looking that any wiring job I will do.

First off: I dont want to mess with ANY trailer wiring. I pull a camper often and wont touch that system for anything other than trailering. I also dont want to wire it to the inside of the truck cab or through the firewall into the BCM like the infotainment kit does, despite that kit being very well put together.

My intention is to get power from the taillight wiring. I have the halogen lights on my truck. Here is what ive seen in this thread as to what wires are power within the tail light harness.

White/beige for left tail lamp
White/voilet for right tail lamp

- Im hoping these are constant power and not just when the hit the unlock button or anything like that. are they? Ill be using these wire taps to access the wire in the drivers side.

- Then HOPING to wire in a separate fuse so i dont accidentally fry something. Im looking at these

- once the fuse is in im going to wire in these lights using this wire to bridge the gap between them and running it along the frame. securing it with zip ties and soldering/shrink wrapping the connections.

- ill use the ground in the rear of the truck near the spare tire that most have used in this

- Id also very much like to add this magnetic switch to the push button switch wiring to ensure the lights are out if the bed is closed.

.

I've read the whole thread... But admit that I skimmed some of it... And I don't recall seeing anything about powering from the tail light harness.

Those magnetic switches will not work for the load of a circuit...depending on amperage they will melt or stop working after some use... They are very low current devices with contacts that are unable to withstand load current even LEDs... I thought about using them for a relay but honestly their not meant for that purpose. I haven't been able to find magnetic switchs to control a load.. Maybe there are out there but idk.

A pin switch would be a better option but the design of the tailgate on my truck made it difficult. The pin switchs I used is rated for 20 amps and I managed to get it mounted to the rail of my tonneau that is almost hidden for the ground

 

[SShadow1974]

I've read the whole thread... But admit that I skimmed some of it... And I don't recall seeing anything about powering from the tail light harness.

Those magnetic switches will not work for the load of a circuit...depending on amperage they will melt or stop working after some use... They are very low current devices with contacts that are unable to withstand load current even LEDs... I thought about using them for a relay but honestly their not meant for that purpose. I haven't been able to find magnetic switchs to control a load.. Maybe there are out there but idk.

A pin switch would be a better option but the design of the tailgate on my truck made it difficult. The pin switchs I used is rated for 20 amps and I managed to get it mounted to the rail of my tonneau that is almost hidden for the ground

Hmmm... You mentioning tonneau cover... Mine has foam pieces that butt up against the tailgate. Could always mount an always open momentary push button switch within that foam, with the button sitting flush with the foam when pressed... That would work. Must do some research. Thanks for the idea!

 

[Gren71]

I've read the whole thread... But admit that I skimmed some of it... And I don't recall seeing anything about powering from the tail light harness.

Those magnetic switches will not work for the load of a circuit...depending on amperage they will melt or stop working after some use... They are very low current devices with contacts that are unable to withstand load current even LEDs... I thought about using them for a relay but honestly their not meant for that purpose. I haven't been able to find magnetic switchs to control a load.. Maybe there are out there but idk.

A pin switch would be a better option but the design of the tailgate on my truck made it difficult. The pin switchs I used is rated for 20 amps and I managed to get it mounted to the rail of my tonneau that is almost hidden for the ground

- there are a couple posts about the power source for the lights throughout the 11 pages, thought no one directly says "im going to use the taillights" or anything. Which is why im posting it here as an idea and looking for input since I dont want to mess with handful of ways already mentioned here so far. Seems like a decent idea

- thanks for the detail on the magnetic switch, never messed with them so i appreciate the insight. The ones I linked have a video of someone doing exactly what I was hoping to. I wonder if their truck is just powered differently.

 

[SShadow1974]

Looks like this would work for a open tail gate, turn on light setup...
Momentary Switch