Battery Replacement Suggestions?

[NJT3]

Have a ram 2021 Laramie Etorque think the battery went last night jump started I do have appointment at dealer today for oil change. I have about 86k on it I'm the origin owner.

So question what would be the best to get and opinions on this list.

Optima Yellow Battery: H7 Group Size, 880 CCA, 1000 CA, 155 Minute Reserve Capacity, Deep-Cycle 3year warranty
$363 + can 20% off matching most places this week


Advanced auto parts
DieHard Platinum AGM Battery: H7 Group Size, 4 Year Warranty, 850 CCA, 1000 CA, 140 Minute Reserve Capacity
$260

AutoZone
Duralast Platinum
850 Cold Cranking Amps (1000 Cranking Amps) ***. 140 reserve minutes. 5 year warranty
$275

Walmart
EverStart Platinum ÀGM
850 CCA; 140 Minute Reserve Capacity; 80 Amp Hours; 1000 CA, VM0144148, OE
$180

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Walmart AGM H8 upgrade, remove spacer, 4 year full replacement and use money saved for beer/food. Also there is a Walmart just about everywhere when traveling.

 

[Oldphart]

I went with an X2 AGM...I'd stay away from anything from Optima. From what I have been told, they are not made like they used to be.

 

[Richard320]

I went with an H8 as well, but I bought mine at NAPA. If you want the blanket, the part # is 5033397AE. I just googled it and went with the cheapest.

 

[FLiPMaRC]

I have the Walmart Everstart Platinum AGM H8 since August 2024. I just recently came back from a 4 week vacation. Truck started right up when I came back.

I use Walmart EverStart Maxx on all my vehicles for about 10 years now. Never let me down. I do replace them every 4 years.

 

[Liquid Li0n]

go for the H8. then you have a big bump in battery power.

the spacer or adapter they used for the cost cutting to have an H7 installed is very easy to be removed

 

[Chris3058]

Or go really crazy and waste your beer money on an Antigravity lol.....

But I do like the Odyssey ODP-AGM49 H8 L5.......it is money though.....however used odyssey extreme series way up north and they always worked.

 

[NJT3]

Thanks all the upgrade to H8 is easy to remove that spacer and guess what... The H8 cost the same as the H7 counter parts

I was going to do Walmart but....
Walmart=Shrinkage!
The H8 showed online at 900cca but in the store they are labeled 850cca! I went to 2 stores. Same goes for the H7 show online as 850 but it's 800cca in store!

Went with this from advanced auto parts
DieHard Platinum AGM Battery: H8 Group Size, 4 Year Warranty, 900 CCA, 1000 CA, 160 Minute Reserve Capacity
$259.99 ... But got it otd for $249.xx.

Running good now, thanks again.

 

[Grimlakin]

Check out batteries plus. On my old ride I replaced the battery one time since 2013 with a Duracell. Not once did I ever have an battery related issue in Texas heat with long periods of being parked.

 

[stevieb92]

I upgraded to an Odyssey H8.

 

[Stormin1969]

Have a ram 2021 Laramie Etorque think the battery went last night jump started I do have appointment at dealer today for oil change. I have about 86k on it I'm the origin owner.

So question what would be the best to get and opinions on this list.

Optima Yellow Battery: H7 Group Size, 880 CCA, 1000 CA, 155 Minute Reserve Capacity, Deep-Cycle 3year warranty
$363 + can 20% off matching most places this week


Advanced auto parts
DieHard Platinum AGM Battery: H7 Group Size, 4 Year Warranty, 850 CCA, 1000 CA, 140 Minute Reserve Capacity
$260

AutoZone
Duralast Platinum
850 Cold Cranking Amps (1000 Cranking Amps) ***. 140 reserve minutes. 5 year warranty
$275

Walmart
EverStart Platinum ÀGM
850 CCA; 140 Minute Reserve Capacity; 80 Amp Hours; 1000 CA, VM0144148, OE
$180

The Optima Battery has the best results. Also, make sure you check your alternator. I have the 21 Ram, and I thought it was the battery too. My truck is not sitting til possibly Oct 4th for the replacement. Not too happy about this.

 

[Liquid Li0n]

it is a real disgrace that they installed an H7 730A in there. Now I replaced it with an H8 AGM of 850A. So hopefully the car can sit for a month without being touched.

 

[hogger]

I would put the cheapest battery in there, and have a jumper pack and/or separate aux battery. The real disgrace is that the buggy software that makes the truck just destroy them. I'm on my third battery in less than three years, and just had to jump start the truck again. After the last software "updates" back in the spring, it without fail, runs the battery down to 11.8-12V in about 3-4hrs, then slowly continues to run it down after that. At the end of a week, it's pretty much dead. Looking at typical lead acid battery discharge curves, that's 40% discharge within half a day, followed by down to 75% discharge within the week. On those graphs, 50% depth of discharge translates to approximately 400 cycles. At 100% DOD, that drops to 200 cycles. This is using a .25CA discharge metric. Turning over the engine is much higher, so the battery's ability to turn over an engine will crap out at way fewer cycles. RAM dealers in the area have pretty much told me to get lost re the issue.

 

[NJT3]

I would put the cheapest battery in there, and have a jumper pack and/or separate aux battery. The real disgrace is that the buggy software that makes the truck just destroy them. I'm on my third battery in less than three years, and just had to jump start the truck again. After the last software "updates" back in the spring, it without fail, runs the battery down to 11.8-12V in about 3-4hrs, then slowly continues to run it down after that. At the end of a week, it's pretty much dead. Looking at typical lead acid battery discharge curves, that's 40% discharge within half a day, followed by down to 75% discharge within the week. On those graphs, 50% depth of discharge translates to approximately 400 cycles. At 100% DOD, that drops to 200 cycles. This is using a .25CA discharge metric. Turning over the engine is much higher, so the battery's ability to turn over an engine will crap out at way fewer cycles. RAM dealers in the area have pretty much told me to get lost re the issue.

That doesn't sound right might have to do alt check. This is first battery replacement I did on my 2021(May) and I've put 86k+ miles on it half NJ traffic commute and half fun lots day/week trips trips to mom in VT in winters.

Also it's check state lemon law on it.

 

[John Kloehr]

I use AutoZone. Around my parts, good stock and they are everywhere. This makes it easy to get another after the first unexpected jumpstart. And free installation. I have them help me, would rather clean tighten at least the posts myself. Still nice to have them lift.

Provide the VIN, proper choices come up on the screen. Assuming at least 3 options, not the cheapest and not the most expensive. This usually means a 2 or 3 year warranty.

There is a good possibility many of the batteries are identical except for the labels and warranty. I put the receipt in the back of the owner's manual so I have it with me the next time.

 

[NJT3]

I would put the cheapest battery in there, and have a jumper pack and/or separate aux battery. The real disgrace is that the buggy software that makes the truck just destroy them. I'm on my third battery in less than three years, and just had to jump start the truck again. After the last software "updates" back in the spring, it without fail, runs the battery down to 11.8-12V in about 3-4hrs, then slowly continues to run it down after that. At the end of a week, it's pretty much dead. Looking at typical lead acid battery discharge curves, that's 40% discharge within half a day, followed by down to 75% discharge within the week. On those graphs, 50% depth of discharge translates to approximately 400 cycles. At 100% DOD, that drops to 200 cycles. This is using a .25CA discharge metric. Turning over the engine is much higher, so the battery's ability to turn over an engine will crap out at way fewer cycles. RAM dealers in the area have pretty much told me to get lost re the issue.

That doesn't sound right might have to do alt check. This is first battery replacement I did on my 2021(May) and I've put 86k+ miles on it half NJ traffic commute and half fun lots day/week trips trips to mom in VT in winters

The Optima Battery has the best results. Also, make sure you check your alternator. I have the 21 Ram, and I thought it was the battery too. My truck is not sitting til possibly Oct 4th for the replacement. Not too happy about this.

Alt Seems Good Didn't feel like digging for my volt meter but heard our dash battery voltage is pretty good reading and anyone can perform this alternator test without volt meter.

1. Set your dash display to the battery voltage display.

2. Turn off everything else: lights(toggle off position), blower for air ac/heat, radio, everything ECT.

Turn truck off let it sit couple minutes.

3. Turn truck on ACC setting on your push button, NOT Run, and note battery voltage. It should be at a 12.xxV reading mine was 12.5.

4. Now turn on the truck (Run motor on).

5. Turn on things that cause a heavy load all at once, Lights, Radio, Air Blower(ac/heat) etc.

6. The voltage should climb to a steady steady higher state with Mine was holding a 13.8V with occasional+/-0.1volts flux. Again my fluxes 13.7V sometimes 13.9V but mostly 13.8 even when driving a few niles when I picked up dinner when I did the test.

Normal ranges under load should be between 13.5V-14.1V

7. Don't forget to turn all that stuff off and your truck off


With those readings means the alternator is feeding the battery to keep it in it's 12V charge.

If you do have and know how to use a volt meter you can perform similar test.

When Parked for safety no driving!
1.Set volt meter to 20V test setting, usually counter clockwise setting.

2. Make sure everything is turn off and truck is off

3. Connect meter negative to battery negative terminal and positive to positive battery terminal. You should get a start 12V reading.

4. Turn the truck on and put it under load by turning on your lights, radio, blower, etc

5. Retest the battery terminals and should show a steady 13.5-14.V reading.

Anything much lower and also much higher would be cause to take it to the dealer.

 

[John Kloehr]

That doesn't sound right might have to do alt check. This is first battery replacement I did on my 2021(May) and I've put 86k+ miles on it half NJ traffic commute and half fun lots day/week trips trips to mom in VT in winters

Alt Seems Good Didn't feel like digging for my volt meter but heard our dash battery voltage is pretty good reading and anyone can perform this alternator test without volt meter.

1. Set your dash display to the battery voltage display.

2. Turn off everything else: lights(toggle off position), blower for air ac/heat, radio, everything ECT.

Turn truck off let it sit couple minutes.

3. Turn truck on ACC setting on your push button, NOT Run, and note battery voltage. It should be at a 12V reading mine was 12.5.

4. Now turn on the truck (Run motor on).

5. Turn on things that cause a heavy load all at once, Lights, Radio, Air Blower(ac/heat) etc.

6. The voltage should climb to a steady steady higher state with Mine was holding a 13.8V with occasional+/-0.1volts flux. Again my fluxes 13.7V sometimes 13.9V but mostly 13.8 even when driving a few niles when I picked up dinner when I did the test.

Normal ranges under load should be between 13.5V-14.1V

7. Don't forget to turn all that stuff off and your truck off


With those readings means the alternator is feeding the battery to keep it in it's 12V charge.

If you do have and know how to use a volt meter you can perform similar test.

When Parked for safety no driving!
1.Set volt meter to 20V test setting, usually counter clockwise setting.

2. Make sure everything is turn off and truck is off

3. Connect meter negative to battery negative terminal and positive to positive battery terminal. You should get a start 12V reading.

4. Turn the truck on and put it under load by turning on your lights, radio, blower, etc

5. Retest the battery terminals and should show a steady 13.5-14.V reading.

Anything much lower and also much higher would be cause to take it to the dealer.

At your step 3, a fully charged lead-acid battery reads 12.6V. An AGM will be 12.7V. If the reading is 12.0V, the battery is a half charge or less.

This reading should be done after the vehicle has been sitting for several hours and preferably overnight, this is to dissipate "surface charge." Surface charge provides a false high reading.

A load test is the gold standard for confirming a battery is good or bad, but what you outline is usually good enough to to find a bad battery. Other than actually using a meter, it is the same as what I do. While it takes a load test to confirm a battery is good, your writeup almost completely covers confirming a bad battery and having a reasonable sense the alternator is working.

For me, a battery on the edge usually confirms bad by noting slow cranking, low morning voltage, and it is low again the next morning after charging and sitting for a while. For alternator, I accept anything from 13.2 (I'll give you 13.1 as meter tolerance) to 14.7V. While the SOC shunt and circuit can complicate things a bit, the alternator voltage is generally higher right after starting and drops slowly as the car is driven and the battery charges.

 

[NJT3]

At your step 3, a fully charged lead-acid battery reads 12.6V. An AGM will be 12.7V. If the reading is 12.0V, the battery is a half charge or less.

This reading should be done after the vehicle has been sitting for several hours and preferably overnight, this is to dissipate "surface charge." Surface charge provides a false high reading.

A load test is the gold standard for confirming a battery is good or bad, but what you outline is usually good enough to to find a bad battery. Other than actually using a meter, it is the same as what I do. While it takes a load test to confirm a battery is good, your writeup almost completely covers confirming a bad battery and having a reasonable sense the alternator is working.

For me, a battery on the edge usually confirms bad by noting slow cranking, low morning voltage, and it is low again the next morning after charging and sitting for a while. For alternator, I accept anything from 13.2 (I'll give you 13.1 as meter tolerance) to 14.7V. While the SOC shunt and circuit can complicate things a bit, the alternator voltage is generally higher right after starting and drops slowly as the car is driven and the battery charges.

Lol when I was writing those steps I knew I should have written 12.xxV. FYI when first did my was 12.5 see second test was 12.7 as start I'll eventually dig out my meter but doing some house projects

 

[John Kloehr]

Lol when I was writing those steps I knew I should have written 12.xxV. FYI when first did my was 12.5 see second test was 12.7 as start I'll eventually dig out my meter but doing some house projects

All good, I do like your writeup. A couple other handy tips...

With the car off, make sure the battery terminals are tight. Try to twist them. I have had more than one case over the last 40+ years where a loose terminal caused various problems including weak starts and headlights changing brightness.

With the headlights on (engine off, battery charged), probe for a voltage drop between the actual battery post and the cable attached to it. More than a few millivolts of drop indicates a loose or dirty connection.

Not sure it would do the same on these modern cars, a failed diode in the alternator may still fool a voltmeter but alternator whine in the radio was the clue something was not quite right. But this last item is for engines with a traditional alternator. The eTorque system does not have a traditional alternator. The eTorque generator charges the 48V battery behind the rear seat. Not sure how the 12V battery gets its power from there, but that is the source.

 

[FLiPMaRC]

I would put the cheapest battery in there, and have a jumper pack and/or separate aux battery. The real disgrace is that the buggy software that makes the truck just destroy them. I'm on my third battery in less than three years, and just had to jump start the truck again. After the last software "updates" back in the spring, it without fail, runs the battery down to 11.8-12V in about 3-4hrs, then slowly continues to run it down after that. At the end of a week, it's pretty much dead. Looking at typical lead acid battery discharge curves, that's 40% discharge within half a day, followed by down to 75% discharge within the week. On those graphs, 50% depth of discharge translates to approximately 400 cycles. At 100% DOD, that drops to 200 cycles. This is using a .25CA discharge metric. Turning over the engine is much higher, so the battery's ability to turn over an engine will crap out at way fewer cycles. RAM dealers in the area have pretty much told me to get lost re the issue.

What year/model truck do you have?

I have a 2021 Laramie Hemi non-etorque. I never had any problems with the stock OEM battery. And I only use my truck on weekends. Sometimes it will sit 2-3 weeks and will start right up. I replaced the stock oem battery after 3 years because of all the stories I read, but it never failed on me. I did replace it with the Walmart EverStart Platinum AGM H8. I was away on vacation for 4 weeks last month, and it start right up when I got back.