Battery or ECU Issue?

[Staywhatyouare2]

Hey Everyone.

I have a weird one. Last Monday (2/21/22) I got into my 2019 Ram 1500 and it wouldn’t start. It had exactly 25,000 miles on it at this point (not even 25,001). Luckily I was coming out of the gym so I had my buddy jump it. After it started again the dash lit up like a Christmas Tree. The Cruise Control, Traction Control and Forward Collision Warning lights were on. I asked my friend to follow me to Advanced Auto which was only a few blocks away.

As soon as I pulled out of the parking lot I immediately pulled over. The truck would not shift out of first gear. That’s when we knew something was wrong. I drove it down the highway going 19 miles an hour (going 3,200 RPMs) watching all the temperatures the whole way. I got to the dealership and it had 75 codes (almost all low voltage codes, but the check engine light wasn’t even on). The dealership said it was likely just a bad battery and they would run a diagnostic test to verify.

Fast forward 5 days and Friday they said it was ready to pick up. They said it was just the battery and all was well now. No further explanation. I was out of town, so I picked it up this morning (2/28/22). No paperwork was given to me explaining what they had done. I drove it to work and it seemed to have a little trouble starting again. I looked at the battery and it was the same battery as before. I thought maybe it just needed to be charged well and they did their job.

I went out get in the truck after work and it wouldn’t start. Exact same thing. I had a friend jump it again and all the lights came on again. Luckily he had a code reader also and we were able to erase the codes (this time it gave an ECU error) and drive to Advanced Auto. They tested the battery and alternator. Both were fine. It was after hours at the dealership so I drove it home.

I fully expect to have to jump it and clear the codes in the morning to take it to the dealership. My question, though, is what in the heck is causing it not to start and then not shift after it is started again? Is it a battery issue? ECU issue?

I just have a feeling the dealership is going to blow me off again.

Sorry for the long post. I just wanted everyone to have all of the information.

 

[bigdodge]

Hey Everyone.

I have a weird one. Last Monday (2/21/22) I got into my 2019 Ram 1500 and it wouldn’t start. It had exactly 25,000 miles on it at this point (not even 25,001). Luckily I was coming out of the gym so I had my buddy jump it. After it started again the dash lit up like a Christmas Tree. The Cruise Control, Traction Control and Forward Collision Warning lights were on. I asked my friend to follow me to Advanced Auto which was only a few blocks away.

As soon as I pulled out of the parking lot I immediately pulled over. The truck would not shift out of first gear. That’s when we knew something was wrong. I drove it down the highway going 19 miles an hour (going 3,200 RPMs) watching all the temperatures the whole way. I got to the dealership and it had 75 codes (almost all low voltage codes, but the check engine light wasn’t even on). The dealership said it was likely just a bad battery and they would run a diagnostic test to verify.

Fast forward 5 days and Friday they said it was ready to pick up. They said it was just the battery and all was well now. No further explanation. I was out of town, so I picked it up this morning (2/28/22). No paperwork was given to me explaining what they had done. I drove it to work and it seemed to have a little trouble starting again. I looked at the battery and it was the same battery as before. I thought maybe it just needed to be charged well and they did their job.

I went out get in the truck after work and it wouldn’t start. Exact same thing. I had a friend jump it again and all the lights came on again. Luckily he had a code reader also and we were able to erase the codes (this time it gave an ECU error) and drive to Advanced Auto. They tested the battery and alternator. Both were fine. It was after hours at the dealership so I drove it home.

I fully expect to have to jump it and clear the codes in the morning to take it to the dealership. My question, though, is what in the heck is causing it not to start and then not shift after it is started again? Is it a battery issue? ECU issue?

I just have a feeling the dealership is going to blow me off again.

Sorry for the long post. I just wanted everyone to have all of the information.

long posts are good
they give good information

one question
is this an etorque?

 

[Staywhatyouare2]

long posts are good
they give good information

one question
is this an etorque?

It is not. It’s the standard V8.

 

[bigdodge]

when the auto parts store checked the battery did they put a load on it and check again?
cause it sounds like a battery

 

[Staywhatyouare2]

when the auto parts store checked the battery did they put a load on it and check again?
cause it sounds like a battery

I don’t believe so. They did the test with the truck engine off and it took the charge and had adequate cold crank amperage (630 of 730).
Even if it is the battery why is the default once it is started again to not shift?

 

[Rlaf75]

It definitely sounds like a bad battery but do yourself and the dealer a favor, if you need to jump it again in the morning DO NOT clear the codes and drive it to the dealer. Call the dealer or your local auto club and have them tow it in. These 5th gen trucks seem to be very finicky so the slightest drop in voltage may trigger everything. If you dont want the dealer to mess with it as I wouldn't blame you if you didnt because they seemed to have shot you through the grease by just "charging" the battery instead of replacing it go out and buy a battery yourself and replace it then clear the codes

 

[bigdodge]

I don’t believe so. They did the test with the truck engine off and it took the charge and had adequate cold crank amperage (630 of 730).
Even if it is the battery why is the default once it is started again to not shift?

all the computers in the ram need to "see" the correct voltage from the battery to operate.

it used to be one could start a vehicle and remove a battery cable and the vehicle would still run from the alternator. not any more

 

[Staywhatyouare2]

It definitely sounds like a bad battery but do yourself and the dealer a favor, if you need to jump it again in the morning DO NOT clear the codes and drive it to the dealer. Call the dealer or your local auto club and have them tow it in. These 5th gen trucks seem to be very finicky so the slightest drop in voltage may trigger everything. If you dont want the dealer to mess with it as I wouldn't blame you if you didnt because they seemed to have shot you through the grease by just "charging" the battery instead of replacing it go out and buy a battery yourself and replace it then clear the codes

That’s why I didn’t clear the codes the first time so they could see all of them. They just weren’t open tonight and I had to get it home.
Sounds good to me, though. I’ll do that tomorrow morning and let everyone know if that solves the problem. It still seems pretty dangerous that it puts it in some strange “limp mode” after having to jump a battery.

 

[Rlaf75]

That’s why I didn’t clear the codes the first time so they could see all of them. They just weren’t open tonight and I had to get it home.
Sounds good to me, though. I’ll do that tomorrow morning and let everyone know if that solves the problem. It still seems pretty dangerous that it puts it in some strange “limp mode” after having to jump a battery.

I've also heard of the radios and back up cameras not working properly due to changing the battery. After the battery gets changed it apparently takes a little time before everything "resets". As I said previously, these 5th gen rams seem to be very finicky. Also, the batteries need amperage not only volts to work properly. The battery may have the volts but the amperage may not be good to start the truck. Cold weather will amplify bad amperage

 

[TNRamGuy]

Ever had an old cordless drill? Seems fine right after charging? Can't even put one screw in? I would buy a Dewalt LiIon battery for my truck if they made them! Sounds like a dead battery my friend

 

[Staywhatyouare2]

Ever had an old cordless drill? Seems fine right after charging? Can't even put one screw in? I would buy a Dewalt LiIon battery for my truck if they made them! Sounds like a dead battery my friend

I mean, I get the analogy but I don’t at the same time. Sometimes it starts up just fine. Sometimes it struggles and still starts. Sometimes it is just dead and goes haywire. I figured if it was truly a battery issue the battery tester would have noticed something wrong. Their job is to sell you more things, after all.
Either way I’ll get a DieHard today and report back.

 

[n8zcc]

Sometimes it starts up just fine. Sometimes it struggles and still starts. Sometimes it is just dead and goes haywire. I figured if it was truly a battery issue the battery tester would have noticed something wrong. Their job is to sell you more things, after all.
Either way I’ll get a DieHard today and report back.

As you know, batteries are made up of cells and a single cell can act up causing the results you see. The only way I know how to catch or prove the battery is at fault is to monitor the battery over time.

 

[TNRamGuy]

Very curious! in the cold, mine wont remote start. Fine if in the seat, but not remote, voltage reading 11.9, have gotten a few random lights, always clear within a few minutes. Now I am not sure if it is the battery, or the truck being lazy

 

[n8zcc]

Very curious! in the cold, mine wont remote start. Fine if in the seat, but not remote, voltage reading 11.9, have gotten a few random lights, always clear within a few minutes. Now I am not sure if it is the battery, or the truck being lazy

11.9 volts is considered low voltage for a battery and likely meets the low voltage level auto-start critera. Is that a reading taken at the battery by a meter or the DIC?

 

[TNRamGuy]

Dic, at 10 degrees, not bothering for any thing else. Remote is fine at 30, voltage great at 60, just seems like truck 'threshold' is a little tight

 

[Staywhatyouare2]

Just put in a brand new DieHard battery. The first start was perfect with no extra "effort." Hopefully that was the fix. I will continue to update if anything else strange happens.

To RIRamGuy: 11.9 volts sounds low. Mine has been testing at 14.5-14.9 the entire time. I would have it checked for CCA also. Mine was 630 out of 730. It still said it was fine, but something was definitely off with the battery or my system. Hopefully the battery was the fix and hopefully it can help you too.

 

[TNRamGuy]

Just put in a brand new DieHard battery. The first start was perfect with no extra "effort." Hopefully that was the fix. I will continue to update if anything else strange happens.

To RIRamGuy: 11.9 volts sounds low. Mine has been testing at 14.5-14.9 the entire time. I would have it checked for CCA also. Mine was 630 out of 730. It still said it was fine, but something was definitely off with the battery or my system. Hopefully the battery was the fix and hopefully it can help you too.

Huh, think my truck is lazy, but will get it a new battery

 

[fatNfurious]

Very curious! in the cold, mine wont remote start. Fine if in the seat, but not remote, voltage reading 11.9, have gotten a few random lights, always clear within a few minutes. Now I am not sure if it is the battery, or the truck being lazy

Yep mine does the same think. Remote start doesn't always work, but in seat it starts. Sigh.......Mine did not also start up today, but mine has no lights at all inside the truck. I just called the Dealer to come pick it up since its still in Warranty.

 

[bigdodge]

Just put in a brand new DieHard battery. The first start was perfect with no extra "effort." Hopefully that was the fix. I will continue to update if anything else strange happens.

To RIRamGuy: 11.9 volts sounds low. Mine has been testing at 14.5-14.9 the entire time. I would have it checked for CCA also. Mine was 630 out of 730. It still said it was fine, but something was definitely off with the battery or my system. Hopefully the battery was the fix and hopefully it can help you too.

did you get a H8?

 

[Staywhatyouare2]

did you get a H8?

I did not. I got an H7 with 800 CCA. Same size as OEM but more CCA.