Base 6 speaker system 6x9 UPGRADE !

[John89]

Yeah it’s weird. So, I just ended up reversing all the pins on the metra 72-6514 adapters that way I would keep the polarity the same (-) (effectively converting them to the 72-6515 adapters)on all my speakers. I then removed my ANC bypass to see if the drone noise was somehow being caused by the reversed polarity, and now there is no drone noise being produced by the ANC via the speakers! Crutchfield is the source of truth, the metra 72-6515 are the correct ones in order to keep the polarity the same.

if anyone swapped their factory speakers I highly recommend you check the polarity on them and make sure you leave it the same as they were from the factory. When you switch it up, it seems to mess with the ANC and you’d be forced to bypass it.

TLDR;
Crutchfield is the source of truth, the metra 72-6515 are the correct ones in order to keep the factory polarity the same and be able to keep your ANC system active if all you’re doing is just swapping the factory speakers and not adding a aftermarket amp.

 

[Spunky9198]

So I took the plunge and replaced my door speakers. First off the polarity in the 2021 is definitely reversed. I had to re-pin the 6514 adapter to essentially make them 6515. just like John said. I replaced the fronts with the Pioneer TS-G690 that were discussed earlier and the rears with Alpine SPE-6090. My opinion of the two...The Pioneers have a way better sounding clarity in the mid to high range. They are very lack luster when in comes to the low end bass hits. The Alpines Low end bass is not even in the same ballpark as the pioneers. They will make the back doors plastic rattle even on the stock deck power. I had all doors in my 2017 with Alpines powered with a micro pioneer GM-D1004 amp behind the HU and the highs that were there were almost too much. The bass was absolutely incredible. I had been questioned what sub I had. "NON that is just my 6X9's" I am going to hit the Pioneers later to see if they come alive in the low range with an amp.

 

[Kondo]

Ok so I started to make some moves here. Have ordered the Infinity Ref speakers with components for the fronts and 3-way for the rear: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R9630CM/Infinity-Reference-REF-9630cx.html?tp=105

Along with the 3-way 9633ix for the rear. Now I’m planning to run the tweeters for the components to where the current dash speakers are and I’m planning to run this for a few months off of stock system (understand it might sound like crap) and then add an amp when budget allows.

Hoping you all can help me out with a few questions seeing as this is a thread focused around the base system:

1. I’m thinking I’ll need to run a new set of wires from the front doors to the dash area seeing as the stock system is in parallel and the front speakers are 8 ohm. Is there a way to avoid this by putting my crossovers where the ANC meets? I already ordered a bypass just in case.

2. Throwing in 4 3-ohm speakers and eliminating the 8-ohm dash will probably throw my system off. This is more of a statement but why I bought the anc proactively.

3. When I do make the jump for an amp where is everyone taping in to get a decent line in signal? I did some searching but most of what I find is HK/Alpine. Is the PAC Amp Pro the way to go?


2019 Big Horn 4x4 Hemi 5’7”

 

[Sascwatch]

Since the dash and door are wired together in the base system you will have to figure out how to run a speaker wire to each speaker. I’m not sure where they are joined together so I can’t really help you there.

Another option is it install a bass blocker on them and keep them in parallel since you already get full signal to that output, while it’s not ideal it might work that way depending on how much load your replacement speakers put. If my math is correct and both replacements are 3ohm like infinity says you’ll have 1.5ohm? So make sure your replacement amp is able to run at 2ohm or less so you don’t blow it.

I could be wrong about the ohm load with speakers in parallel so double check as it could remain at 3ohm, I’ve never really looked into it.

 

[cajun456]

Ok so I started to make some moves here. Have ordered the Infinity Ref speakers with components for the fronts and 3-way for the rear: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R9630CM/Infinity-Reference-REF-9630cx.html?tp=105

Along with the 3-way 9633ix for the rear. Now I’m planning to run the tweeters for the components to where the current dash speakers are and I’m planning to run this for a few months off of stock system (understand it might sound like crap) and then add an amp when budget allows.

Hoping you all can help me out with a few questions seeing as this is a thread focused around the base system:

1. I’m thinking I’ll need to run a new set of wires from the front doors to the dash area seeing as the stock system is in parallel and the front speakers are 8 ohm. Is there a way to avoid this by putting my crossovers where the ANC meets? I already ordered a bypass just in case.

2. Throwing in 4 3-ohm speakers and eliminating the 8-ohm dash will probably throw my system off. This is more of a statement but why I bought the anc proactively.

3. When I do make the jump for an amp where is everyone taping in to get a decent line in signal? I did some searching but most of what I find is HK/Alpine. Is the PAC Amp Pro the way to go?


2019 Big Horn 4x4 Hemi 5’7”

I pre-ran the wires from the dash speaker location to the ANC location under the driver seat. I used the ANC bypass and actually removed the ANC completely and added a Kicker KEY180.4 amp. Running the wires is basically a straight shot down. I used a piece of 14 gauge romex wire to guide them. You can put your crossovers under the driver seat and connect your wiring there. When using the crossovers for the component set, the radio should see the impedence at the crossover. If/when you add an amp, you can tap into the wiring of the ANC bypass. Depending on the size of the amp, you can put it under the seat also and use the bolts from the ANC for the ground.

 

[Sascwatch]

I downloaded that speaker pop app and it is saying some of my speakers are - even the factory woofers when hooked up. I’m going to use a voltage meter to double check. This is weird. Factory tweeters show + and aftermarket show -.

 

[Spunky9198]

Tad off topic...does anyone have any info on the wiring harness on the back of the stock HU.

I am looking for the wire diagram for a 2021. I want to install my amp on my upgraded 6x9's

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[Sascwatch]

So I grabbed my voltage meter and the speaker polarity is correct with the metra 72-6515 adapters even tho the speaker pop app says it’s - on the speakers I’ve swapped out. Speakers move outward like they are supposed to as well.

Dash speakers show - as well in the speaker pop app but polarity checks out with the voltage meter.

To make things even stranger it doesn’t matter which way I hook the door speakers up, they always move outwards like they’re supposed to. Speaker pop app will show + with the speakers hooked reverse.

I called crutchfield and their tech told me to hook the speakers up according to their master sheet which the 72-6515 adapters are correct for.

Any audio geeks able to explain why the speakers move outwards when hooked up in either polarity?

To make things even more confusing, metra recommends the 72-6514 adapter for our trucks.

Im guessing the main thing here is to make sure all speakers are in the correct + polarity according to a polarity tester. It seems voltage meters aren’t very accurate for checking this.

 

[LoudHogRider]

I called crutchfield and their tech told me to hook the speakers up according to their master sheet which the 72-6515 adapters are correct for.

To make things even more confusing, metra recommends the 72-6514 adapter for our trucks.

Me, trying to figure out whether to leave my 6514's in place or re-pin to match the 6515 specs:



In all fairness, I should probably re-pin. I have a turrible drone noise with the ANC engaged, but it rocks. With the ANC bypass hooked up, there's no drone noise but it's washed out sound.

 

[Sascwatch]

Me, trying to figure out whether to leave my 6514's in place or re-pin to match the 6515 specs:

View attachment 87188

Ya I’m so confused lol. I’ve got the wiring diagram for HK trucks now going to figure this out.

 

[Sascwatch]

I think crutchfield has their polarities backwards, going by this wiring diagram anyways and the base wiring diagram as well.

HK speaker wire diagram/colors

I am trying to find the wire colors of the rear door speakers and/or the subwoofer. I am adding an aftermarket subwoofer and I need something to tap into. I will most likely tap into the wire at the amplifier, but there are about 100 wires coming out of it so I have no idea which ones are the...

5thgenrams.com

I am going to swap all speakers to show + with the polarity tester and see if it sounds any different. This will match what the factory speakers show up as with the polarity tester.

 

[Sascwatch]

I contacted metra about this and they have already gotten back to me. They are recommending the 72-6514 adapter over they 72-6515.

 

[Sascwatch]

The aftermarket speakers sound just fine with the polarity connected according to the factory wiring direction.

Factory 3.5” speakers test as + with the polarity tester while the factory woofers test -. I know have all speakers testing as + with the speaker polarity tester.

 

[Kondo]

I pre-ran the wires from the dash speaker location to the ANC location under the driver seat. I used the ANC bypass and actually removed the ANC completely and added a Kicker KEY180.4 amp. Running the wires is basically a straight shot down. I used a piece of 14 gauge romex wire to guide them. You can put your crossovers under the driver seat and connect your wiring there. When using the crossovers for the component set, the radio should see the impedence at the crossover. If/when you add an amp, you can tap into the wiring of the ANC bypass. Depending on the size of the amp, you can put it under the seat also and use the bolts from the ANC for the ground.

Thanks for this, exactly what I’m looking to do. Did you just hide the wire from the dash tweeters under the door moldings? Any issue with the speaker level input at the bypass or is the signal pretty solid?


2019 Big Horn 4x4 Hemi 5’7”

 

[cajun456]

Thanks for this, exactly what I’m looking to do. Did you just hide the wire from the dash tweeters under the door moldings? Any issue with the speaker level input at the bypass or is the signal pretty solid?


2019 Big Horn 4x4 Hemi 5’7”

I ran both wires under the dash toward the left of the center console and tucked the wires under the edge of the console. You can run them under the door trim also. If you run them under the door trim you can slip them under the carpet and come up through the same hole as the ANC wires. I haven't had any issues with the hi-level inputs at that location.

 

[LoudHogRider]

Yeah it’s weird. So, I just ended up reversing all the pins on the metra 72-6514 adapters that way I would keep the polarity the same (-) (effectively converting them to the 72-6515 adapters)on all my speakers. I then removed my ANC bypass to see if the drone noise was somehow being caused by the reversed polarity, and now there is no drone noise being produced by the ANC via the speakers! Crutchfield is the source of truth, the metra 72-6515 are the correct ones in order to keep the polarity the same.

if anyone swapped their factory speakers I highly recommend you check the polarity on them and make sure you leave it the same as they were from the factory. When you switch it up, it seems to mess with the ANC and you’d be forced to bypass it.

TLDR;
Crutchfield is the source of truth, the metra 72-6515 are the correct ones in order to keep the factory polarity the same and be able to keep your ANC system active if all you’re doing is just swapping the factory speakers and not adding a aftermarket amp.

I'm too lazy to switch the pins on the 72-6514 adapters, and since I have to pull all four door panels to do the job, I just ordered new 72-6515 adapters from Crutchfield. The sound running through the ANC bypass is "pedestrian" at best, but it beats the heck out of that teeth rattling drone if that bypass isn't attached. OMG, it's brutal.

I'll hook up the new 72-6515's early next week upon arrival (the Mrs. will be out of town and won't be poking her head into MY GARAGE wondering "What are you doing to the truck now?". It's safer for all parties this way.

 

[Sascwatch]

Ram must run the woofers out of phase for the ANC, I have the eco diesel so no anc in my truck which is why thing got all crazy with harnesses and polarity.

 

[John89]

I'm too lazy to switch the pins on the 72-6514 adapters, and since I have to pull all four door panels to do the job, I just ordered new 72-6515 adapters from Crutchfield. The sound running through the ANC bypass is "pedestrian" at best, but it beats the heck out of that teeth rattling drone if that bypass isn't attached. OMG, it's brutal.

I'll hook up the new 72-6515's early next week upon arrival (the Mrs. will be out of town and won't be poking her head into MY GARAGE wondering "What are you doing to the truck now?". It's safer for all parties this way.

Lol my lady says the same exact thing!

Let me know how it works out for you, ever since I converted my 72-6514 to the 6515 the drone noise is completely gone. Like @Sascwatch mentioned, I 100% believe it’s done intentionally for the ANC to work properly.

 

[LoudHogRider]

I'm too lazy to switch the pins on the 72-6514 adapters, and since I have to pull all four door panels to do the job, I just ordered new 72-6515 adapters from Crutchfield. The sound running through the ANC bypass is "pedestrian" at best, but it beats the heck out of that teeth rattling drone if that bypass isn't attached. OMG, it's brutal.

I'll hook up the new 72-6515's early next week upon arrival (the Mrs. will be out of town and won't be poking her head into MY GARAGE wondering "What are you doing to the truck now?". It's safer for all parties this way.

Yes, I'm quoting myself. Final update on this project. The 72-6515 adapters arrived this morning, and installing them definitely solved the horrible "drone" noise that was taking place w/o the ANC bypass installed. As a test I reconnected the ANC unit and the ANC bypass loom, and went for a couple of test spins to check it out.

My final assessment: the new speakers are somewhat better than the stock speakers, but the entire factory base sound system suffers from a lack of power. It has no guts at all. If I want the music of my bygone youth to thunder when I twist the knob, it's definitely going to need some additional component upgrades. I can see an amp and possibly a sub-woofer at some point down the road.

Edited to add: I've tried it with both the ANC plugged in and the ANC bypass harness attached. Same song, same volume and my anecdotal ear assessment is the ANC bypass harness robs it of "some" power. I've removed it and re-attached the looms to the factory ANC unit. Guns and Roses' "Welcome to the Jungle" still sounds like "Welcome to the Playground" when you crank it, but here we are. It's the base stereo system and it performs like one.