Bad lifters, will they cover it under warranty if I changed my own oil?

[Slimmons]

I've already had a terrible experience with this truck. At this point it's barely a vehicle. I have 40k miles on it, and Ram has fought me on every single part that's had to be replaced, with me spending over $600 on warranty covered parts.
I now have lifters going bad, and misfires all over the place (P0305 code). At 40k miles, this should be covered, but I had Ram refuse to cover things under warranty at less than 500 miles, so I have no faith in them doing the right thing.
Does anyone have any experience with Ram refusing to cover powertrain warranty if they changed their own oil? I've changed it exactly as the manual states (correct interval, oil, and filter). Having said that, I don't really have receipts that can prove this. How much of a fight am I in for?

 

[HSKR R/T]

I've already had a terrible experience with this truck. At this point it's barely a vehicle. I have 40k miles on it, and Ram has fought me on every single part that's had to be replaced, with me spending over $600 on warranty covered parts.
I now have lifters going bad, and misfires all over the place (P0305 code). At 40k miles, this should be covered, but I had Ram refuse to cover things under warranty at less than 500 miles, so I have no faith in them doing the right thing.
Does anyone have any experience with Ram refusing to cover powertrain warranty if they changed their own oil? I've changed it exactly as the manual states (correct interval, oil, and filter). Having said that, I don't really have receipts that can prove this. How much of a fight am I in for?

If you have had that many issues, I'd go to a different dealer. Shouldn't be an issue just because you change your own oil. They would have to prove the oil caused the issue. And an oil analysis would determine that.

 

[BTB123]

I don’t know that you’ll have to provide receipts. You might. I’d guess they will want to see documented service history. Hopefully you have kept good records.

 

[Slimmons]

The only records I would know to keep on changing my own oil is writing down "I changed the oil at this date/miles". Even a receipt on when I bought the oil wouldn't really prove anything.

 

[Slimmons]

@HSKR R/T The issue unfortunately hasn't been with the dealer (and I've talked to multiple). RAM themselves refused to replace my rack and pinion, and it was bad from the factory.
I went in and complained about it when the truck was new, then two more times before the bumper to bumper was out. Then when I was 700 miles past warranty I went in again for it, and they said "yep, it's definitely a bad rack and pinion....too bad you're out of warranty". RAM agreed with them, and they covered all of it but ~$650. It was a garbage thing to do, and I don't blame the dealer since RAM took their side.

 

[BTB123]

The only records I would know to keep on changing my own oil is writing down "I changed the oil at this date/miles". Even a receipt on when I bought the oil wouldn't really prove anything.

I write down everything I do. The type of oil, filter, date and miles. I also buy oil and filters off Amazon. They keep receipts forever.

 

[Legal Brief]

Wait! 40k but what delivery date? your claiming under either extended warranty, or Powertrain. Extended is a third party administrator packaged as RAM, power train is RAM.

Your dealer isn’t being clear with you, extended may have a deductible depending on what you bought. Zero idea why you pay $650 for a single complaint incident.

 

[SD Rebel]

My service rep told me to keep my receipts for my DIY oil changes, so you see where this is going. Not only do I keep the receipts and a log on a spreadsheet, but I log it on the owner's dashboard on the Mopar website.

That being said, did you buy your supplies at Walmart? You can access all your old receipts if you have a website account?

Finally, in the end, they need to prove unchanged oil/filter was the cause of your issue. Request an oil analysis if they decide to fight you over it to show the oil was the issue.

 

[Slimmons]

@Legal Brief It's a 2021 that I got in January of 2021. It's only 2 years old. I have no extended warranty. As far as I'm concerned with my experience so far, RAM doesn't have a warranty of any kind unless they feel like honoring it. Which so far for me, they have not. Maybe this will be the first fix I get from them without having to fight for months (not the dealership, but RAM). I'm not here to trash talk RAM, every brand has their ups and downs, but from now on if I ever bought a RAM again (which I highly doubt), I'd consider the factory warranty to be non-existent.

 

[SD Rebel]

@Legal Brief It's a 2021 that I got in January of 2021. It's only 2 years old. I have no extended warranty. As far as I'm concerned with my experience so far, RAM doesn't have a warranty of any kind unless they feel like honoring it. Which so far for me, they have not. Maybe this will be the first fix I get from them without having to fight for months (not the dealership, but RAM). I'm not here to trash talk RAM, every brand has their ups and downs, but from now on if I ever bought a RAM again (which I highly doubt), I'd consider the factory warranty to be non-existent.

RAM's rep when it comes to service is well documented, essentially last place (Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep & RAM), which is why I do my own oil changes. I've been lucky in these last 4 years with zero issues, but I feel for those that have to deal with this sometimes very inept service/repair network. Not all of them suck, but lots of them do.

Hopefully this powertrain issue will get resolved properly and without so much fuss.

 

[John Galt]

Magnussen-Moss act specifically says a factory warranty claim can’t be denied just because consumables were not serviced or purchased from the dealer.

Now…..if you mixed a handful of gravel in with your oil when you were changing it or forgot the reinstall the drain plug and took off on a 1000 mile road trip, or used canola oil…..that’s different.

 

[Slimmons]

@John Galt Wow, so I can't even use my patented "oil gravel" anymore? When will this oppression stop! But yeah, thanks for the info. I'll look into the wording of the factory warranty.

 

[John Galt]

@John Galt Wow, so I can't even use my patented "oil gravel" anymore? When will this oppression stop! But yeah, thanks for the info. I'll look into the wording of the factory warranty.

A handful of gravel certainly increases the scrubbing power of the oil…..and I’ve always been partial to olive myself, it’s a little thicker which helps avoid the lifter issues on the Hemis, but on the 3D you don’t really have that problem.

 

[Philth]

As long as you have your receipts with the proper oil and intervals and it's still under warranty, how would they deny it? Can you give specifics as to why the other warranty claims were denied? Not seeing the whole picture.

 

[HSKR R/T]

A handful of gravel certainly increases the scrubbing power of the oil…..and I’ve always been partial to olive myself, it’s a little thicker which helps avoid the lifter issues on the Hemis, but on the 3D you don’t really have that problem.

I like sunflower oil myself. Has a higher smoking point so if you accidentally overheat it will hold up better. Unless you are using extra light Olive oil

 

[WXman]

I've changed it exactly as the manual states (correct interval, oil, and filter).

The irony is this is why the lifters and valvetrain fail. The factory spec oil is insufficient for a V8 engine powering a 5,600 lb. vehicle that can tow 5 tons. Almost every guy I've talked to with valvetrain failure has either had the dealership service their truck, or they've done it themselves with the 0W20 junk spec'd in the manual.

FIRST thing I did to mine when I got it home is run 4,500 miles and then dump the factory fill and never look back. 5W30 full synethic ever since. Valvetrain is as smooth as silk with zero tapping or ticking. I look to have no issues at all as the miles rack up now. In the real heat of summer I may even use 5W40 and then fall back down to 30 in the winter.

I find it interesting that this engine has only been updated ONCE in 21 years of production, yet the oil spec has changed more times than a guy can count. Clearly they are chasing EPA certification targets to save themselves money.

Also interesting that other companies spec different oils depending on use. Example: Ford's 5.0 V8. 0W20 on the normal Mustang GT, but 5W50 if you get the heavy duty "track pack" even though IT'S THE SAME ENGINE. Why? Because they know that heavy use builds heat, and 0W20 can't handle the heat.

 

[John Galt]

I like sunflower oil myself. Has a higher smoking point so if you accidentally overheat it will hold up better. Unless you are using extra light Olive oil

I like that new synthetic stuff. They force extra hydrocarbons into it at high pressure. You only 4 ounces and it does the same job as a gallon of conventional oils. I fried a whole turkey in it the other day and it only took a thimble full.

Tastes pretty good too if you can get over the fact that it’s made from insects.

progress is always good!

 

[6of36]

You can change your own oil, but they may require proof. I tear off the flap from the oil filter, and write date and mileage on it when I change mine. You are dealing with a shady dealer. Find another one. As long as there was a written complaint before the warranty expired, it should have been covered. Call your state licensing bureau about that dealer.

 

[HSKR R/T]

You can change your own oil, but they may require proof. I tear off the flap from the oil filter, and write date and mileage on it when I change mine. You are dealing with a shady dealer. Find another one. As long as there was a written complaint before the warranty expired, it should have been covered. Call your state licensing bureau about that dealer.

He had another thread about the steering rack issues. I don't think the actual complaint was ever documented on the paperwork as he only mentioned it while it was in for regular service oil change.

 

[SD Rebel]

The irony is this is why the lifters and valvetrain fail. The factory spec oil is insufficient for a V8 engine powering a 5,600 lb. vehicle that can tow 5 tons. Almost every guy I've talked to with valvetrain failure has either had the dealership service their truck, or they've done it themselves with the 0W20 junk spec'd in the manual.

FIRST thing I did to mine when I got it home is run 4,500 miles and then dump the factory fill and never look back. 5W30 full synethic ever since. Valvetrain is as smooth as silk with zero tapping or ticking. I look to have no issues at all as the miles rack up now. In the real heat of summer I may even use 5W40 and then fall back down to 30 in the winter.

I find it interesting that this engine has only been updated ONCE in 21 years of production, yet the oil spec has changed more times than a guy can count. Clearly they are chasing EPA certification targets to save themselves money.

Also interesting that other companies spec different oils depending on use. Example: Ford's 5.0 V8. 0W20 on the normal Mustang GT, but 5W50 if you get the heavy duty "track pack" even though IT'S THE SAME ENGINE. Why? Because they know that heavy use builds heat, and 0W20 can't handle the heat.

Not to start something here, but I've heard the opposite, if you use too thick of an oil than spec you risk not enough lubrication reaching the lifters and causing the problem. Though in reality is likely bad pins and it's going to fail in 10% of motors regardless of what oil spec you use.

Our GM 6.2L V8 has 0W-20, and GM has been specing that oil for years, I honestly don't hear much worry about that oil in the forums over there.

That being said, I would like something more conclusive to know should we be sticking to 5W-20, 0W-20 or will thicker oil actually help on the longevity of these trucks? For me, my powertrain warranty requires Mopar approved oils, and my receipts will only show that since I DIY all my basic services, for now.