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Audio Upgrades - Experience and Thoughts

Quagmeyer

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I just finished my upgrade path of adding an amp, subwoofer, and front dash speakers. I wanted to add some thoughts the journey in case it helps others. My upgrades were on a 2019 Laramie with the Alpine 12" Uconnect.

I started by upgrading my factory front and center speakers. This is an incredibly easy install, and assuming you get the speaker adapters, probably take less than an hour. I used the Kicker 46CSC354 3.5's, which I'm very happy with after adjusting the EQ a bit.

Next, I began planning an upgrade the stock subwoofer, thinking I could just replace the driver. Once pulling the sub, it became pretty obvious this would not be ideal. The box is tiny, the sub irregularly sized (between an 8" and a 10" from a mounting perspective), and has an unusual voice coil arrangement (3 voice coils). Even if you added a spacer and shallow mount replacement sub, you would still be getting less power than the factory sub. So, I decided against this option.

I looked at pulling the factory sub, and adding one under the rear seat. I built a box similar to those described in other threads (picture attached), and added a relatively shallow 10". I generally prefer ported, however, there is just so little room, that I ended up sealed. This arrangement is working pretty well, but the seat does rattle when I crank it. In hindsight, I would have made the box slightly shorter to allow more air gap between the sub and seat.

Next, I mounted my amp in the factory sub location. This seems to work pretty well, and there is some airflow with the holes in the carpet panel for the factory subwoofer. At first, I used the factory subwoofer high-level feed to get signal to my amp. This worked, however there were a few downsides: 1) The active noise cancellation (ANC) caused a fairly loud, distracting tone when it activated, 2) there was some noticeable turn-off thump from my amp (Alpine MRV-M500), and 3) the signal to the factory sub seems to be EQ'd by the amp (was not a huge deal for me).

Since I'm cheap, I de-pinned the ANC microphones to fix the distracting tone when ECO engaged. This fixed the tone from the sub, but replaced it with another issue. That issue being the noticeable drone when the truck goes into ECO mode. Generally, this drone was tolerable, but there were occasions where it became annoying when accelerating in ECO mode. I decided this was a deal breaker.

Finally, I decided I need to just pony up the cash for the PAC Amppro (AP4-CH41). I was able to find it for less than $200 shipped online. The install was fairly straightforward, and as a nice bonus, it provides a remote turn-on for your amp which fixed my turn-off thump issues. I then put back the ANC, which still functions through the factory 6x9's. It may not be quite as effective without the factory sub, but is way better than no ANC (ECO drone is now hard to detect).

Hopefully this helps those with their upgrade planning.
 

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rah6887

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I just finished my upgrade path of adding an amp, subwoofer, and front dash speakers. I wanted to add some thoughts the journey in case it helps others. My upgrades were on a 2019 Laramie with the Alpine 12" Uconnect.

I started by upgrading my factory front and center speakers. This is an incredibly easy install, and assuming you get the speaker adapters, probably take less than an hour. I used the Kicker 46CSC354 3.5's, which I'm very happy with after adjusting the EQ a bit.

Next, I began planning an upgrade the stock subwoofer, thinking I could just replace the driver. Once pulling the sub, it became pretty obvious this would not be ideal. The box is tiny, the sub irregularly sized (between an 8" and a 10" from a mounting perspective), and has an unusual voice coil arrangement (3 voice coils). Even if you added a spacer and shallow mount replacement sub, you would still be getting less power than the factory sub. So, I decided against this option.

I looked at pulling the factory sub, and adding one below the rear seat. I built a box similar to those described in other threads, and added a relatively shallow 10". I generally prefer ported, however, there is just so little room, that I ended up sealed. This arrangement is working pretty well, but the seat does rattle when I crank it. In hindsight, I would have made the box slightly shorter to allow more air gap between the sub and seat.

Next, I mounted my amp in the factory sub location. This seems to work pretty well, and there is some airflow with the holes in the carpet panel for the factory subwoofer. At first, I used the factory subwoofer high-level feed to get signal to my amp. This worked, however there were a few downsides: 1) The active noise cancellation (ANC) caused a fairly loud, distracting tone when it activated, 2) there was some noticeable turn-off thump from my amp (Alpine MRV-M500), and 3) the signal to the factory sub seems to be EQ'd by the amp (was not a huge deal for me).

Since I'm cheap, I de-pinned the ANC microphones to fix the distracting tone when ECO engaged. This fixed the tone from the sub, but replaced it with another issue. That issue being the noticeable drone when the truck goes into ECO mode. Generally, this drone was tolerable, but there were occasions where it became annoying when accelerating in ECO mode. I decided this was a deal breaker.

Finally, I decided I need to just pony up the cash for the PAC Amppro (AP4-CH41). I was able to find it for less than $200 shipped online. The install was fairly straightforward, and as a nice bonus, it provides a remote turn-on for your amp which fixed my turn-off thump issues. I then put back the ANC, which still functions through the factory 6x9's. It may not be quite as effective without the factory sub, but is way better than no ANC (ECO drone is now hard to detect).

Hopefully this helps those with their upgrade planning.
Can you provide a link for the PAC AP4-CH41?
Cheapest I have found is around $250.
 

2020GraniteBH

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Do you need to mess with the ANC stuff if you just replace the dash speakers??
 

Quagmeyer

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What do you mean about the ANC issues? If you replaced the amp, there is no ANC.
I initially used the speaker level outputs from the factory amp to feed my subwoofer amp. Since then, I’ve added the Amppro to feed my sub amp, so the ANC is no longer an issue.
 
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Well, I'm about to begin a new endeavor by adding a Sub to the existing speaker...here goes nothing. I'll say this though, of mods I've done so far, this has been the least frustrating one to attempt...fingers crossed...just started the tear down of the interior today (putting a little sound deadening material down while I'm at it).

Already did the dash and door upgrades...like the sound improvement, but want a little more thump.
 

jabara572

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Does anyone know with the 6 speaker system is the center dash speaker wiring there? I already did my corners and like an idiot bought another set to replace the center and it turns out there isnt one on my truck.
 

jabara572

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Does anyone know with the 6 speaker system is the center dash speaker wiring there? I already did my corners and like an idiot bought another set to replace the center and it turns out there isnt one on my truck.

In case anyone is wondering, no there is no dash wiring that I could find in the center grill, it is just a hole and if the wiring is there is must be buried deep inside the dash, i could not see or feel anything down there.
 

ccookson

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I just finished my upgrade path of adding an amp, subwoofer, and front dash speakers. I wanted to add some thoughts the journey in case it helps others. My upgrades were on a 2019 Laramie with the Alpine 12" Uconnect.

I started by upgrading my factory front and center speakers. This is an incredibly easy install, and assuming you get the speaker adapters, probably take less than an hour. I used the Kicker 46CSC354 3.5's, which I'm very happy with after adjusting the EQ a bit.

Next, I began planning an upgrade the stock subwoofer, thinking I could just replace the driver. Once pulling the sub, it became pretty obvious this would not be ideal. The box is tiny, the sub irregularly sized (between an 8" and a 10" from a mounting perspective), and has an unusual voice coil arrangement (3 voice coils). Even if you added a spacer and shallow mount replacement sub, you would still be getting less power than the factory sub. So, I decided against this option.

I looked at pulling the factory sub, and adding one below the rear seat. I built a box similar to those described in other threads, and added a relatively shallow 10". I generally prefer ported, however, there is just so little room, that I ended up sealed. This arrangement is working pretty well, but the seat does rattle when I crank it. In hindsight, I would have made the box slightly shorter to allow more air gap between the sub and seat.

Next, I mounted my amp in the factory sub location. This seems to work pretty well, and there is some airflow with the holes in the carpet panel for the factory subwoofer. At first, I used the factory subwoofer high-level feed to get signal to my amp. This worked, however there were a few downsides: 1) The active noise cancellation (ANC) caused a fairly loud, distracting tone when it activated, 2) there was some noticeable turn-off thump from my amp (Alpine MRV-M500), and 3) the signal to the factory sub seems to be EQ'd by the amp (was not a huge deal for me).

Since I'm cheap, I de-pinned the ANC microphones to fix the distracting tone when ECO engaged. This fixed the tone from the sub, but replaced it with another issue. That issue being the noticeable drone when the truck goes into ECO mode. Generally, this drone was tolerable, but there were occasions where it became annoying when accelerating in ECO mode. I decided this was a deal breaker.

Finally, I decided I need to just pony up the cash for the PAC Amppro (AP4-CH41). I was able to find it for less than $200 shipped online. The install was fairly straightforward, and as a nice bonus, it provides a remote turn-on for your amp which fixed my turn-off thump issues. I then put back the ANC, which still functions through the factory 6x9's. It may not be quite as effective without the factory sub, but is way better than no ANC (ECO drone is now hard to detect).

Hopefully this helps those with their upgrade planning.
Quick question! How do I get that plastic cover off the center dash. Looks like a speaker cover has the alarm bulb included in it. (at least I think thats what it is)
Thanks so much.
 

jabara572

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Quick question! How do I get that plastic cover off the center dash. Looks like a speaker cover has the alarm bulb included in it. (at least I think thats what it is)
Thanks so much.


Just pops up like the others, there are about 8 click type fasteners on it and IMO it comes out much easier than the corners. The light sensor is attached to it and removes with it.
 

G.N.G.

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Thank you for the original post. I'm about to add a sub and amp as well. I've researched the PAC Amppro (AP4-CH41) and decided this was the route I would take to get a signal for the sub amp. Here's what I'm wondering... do you connect the Amppro behind the 12" display in the dash, or does it connect at the factory amp harness? From what I've read it looks like you have to pull the display and connect it in the dash. Any clarification will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance and take care - G.N.Gates
 

Quagmeyer

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Thank you for the original post. I'm about to add a sub and amp as well. I've researched the PAC Amppro (AP4-CH41) and decided this was the route I would take to get a signal for the sub amp. Here's what I'm wondering... do you connect the Amppro behind the 12" display in the dash, or does it connect at the factory amp harness? From what I've read it looks like you have to pull the display and connect it in the dash. Any clarification will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance and take care - G.N.Gates

It plugs in behind the dash. You do have to pull the display, but there is space behind it to fit the Amppro.
 

Nibis

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Thank you for the original post. I'm about to add a sub and amp as well. I've researched the PAC Amppro (AP4-CH41) and decided this was the route I would take to get a signal for the sub amp. Here's what I'm wondering... do you connect the Amppro behind the 12" display in the dash, or does it connect at the factory amp harness? From what I've read it looks like you have to pull the display and connect it in the dash. Any clarification will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance and take care - G.N.Gates
I want to add a sub too, but the PAC Amppro is overkill, I will never need all it can do, and at almost 280 bucks, that's a hard pill to swallow. I wish they made a piece that just gave you high level input. I have an Alpine Amp that has high level input, and uses the audio signal to turn on, so no need to run a remote wire. In my trailhawk with the Alpine system, I just tapped into the wires going to the factory sub, and it worked well.
 

Nibis

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Pac system bypasses the anc
They have the the ANC bypass module, which is 29.95 and the Amplifier Integration Interface Module, which is like 280 bucks, I don't want to pay that to get a sub signal.
 

jdefoe0424

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They have the the ANC bypass module, which is 29.95 and the Amplifier Integration Interface Module, which is like 280 bucks, I don't want to pay that to get a sub signal.
You can get a LOC and piggyback off the signals and then run to your external amp.
I've used an LC2i in the past and had good luck with them

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

Nibis

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You can get a LOC and piggyback off the signals and then run to your external amp.
I've used an LC2i in the past and had good luck with them

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
I don't need a LOC, my amp has Hi level input with audio sensing turn on, just need to know which wires at the sub to get the signal from
 

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