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Anyone ACTUALLY running 5w-30 or even 10w-30? Thoughts? Experience? Any REAL TRUTH to throwing a code running higher weight oil (no conjecture please)

ferraiolo1

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care to elaborate?

If you research how the systems work and the components involved it will give you a better idea. Changing oil viscosity and dirty oil can cause them to fail, by blocking the small oil passages and what not.

Unless of course you tear your top end apart and delete the internal components

Abs if you have a lifter failure, which isn’t uncommon on these types of systems. The first thing they will ask is about the oil and oil change intervals.


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BowDown

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For the OP: the quote above is a common thought, but a few years ago the manual still said 5w-30 could be used. The engine hasn't been revised in the last 6 years, but we've gone from 5w-30 to 0w-20 according to the manual.

I'm sure it's a non issue, guys on another forum have done this for years without any trouble whatsoever, either with lifter errors or MDS codes.

Not only that, the drivetrain quiets right down. It's noisy on that ditch water, but give it some thick 30 weight and it sounds a lot better.

All my opinion of course. Should mention that you may/will void your engine warranty if you run 30 weight and they find out about it. That should be balanced against how long you plan to keep your truck, and whether you really do think (like I do) that these trucks run far better on 30 weight.

I agree, I doubt 5w30 would cause any problems but the 5.7 is noisy? Come over here and listen to my LSX 434 with link bar lifters! That MF'n valvetrain is noisy AF. I put new Johnson 2116 SLR lifters in a few weeks ago to quieten it down and because I think I actually hurt a lifter using 0w40 in it.

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Ironically, John Lifters is who Arrow and Roe Racing went with to solve lifters issues and they have a HEMI lifter as well

GEN III Hemi Lifter Tick Solved​


INCREASING GEN III HEMI POWER WITH PRECISE LIFTER FUNCTION AND NO "HEMI TICK"
By Lyle Larson




It’s no secret among engine builders and enthusiasts that hydraulic lifter and associated valvetrain issues have plagued Late Model Chrysler Hemi engines for years. Internet forums are awash with tales of engine failures, high repair bills and annoying noises often referred to as the “Hemi Tick”. Late model Hemi lifter issues have proved particularly widespread and Chrysler have never adequately addressed them, preferring instead to write off the cost of replacements rather than fix the problem. The standard dealer response is to tell customers, “It’s normal. They all do it.” Dealers see it as a cash cow because they can string a customer along until he agrees to pay for the “out of warranty” repairs which often run upward of $4000-7000 or more. Worse yet, the problem returns in six months because the dealer simply replaces the defective parts with more defective components from the same supply chain.




The problem affects even the most accurately degreed cams. If the lifters are underperforming, you really have no idea when each valve is opening and closing or if the timing even remains consistent on subsequent cycles. So even at a steady throttle, air flow can vary and the onboard computer will attempt to adjust for it with fueling changes. Performance is lost and parts damage may ensue. If these changes get too far out of spec, the computer will learn this behavior and evolve an ongoing fix that deteriorates overall performance. And you still must listen to the tick...
The lifter has a chance to refill and adjust for bleed on the back side of the cam lobe as spring pressure subsides and the load is reduced. A lifter’s ability to react rapidly to changes in loading and maintain the desired plunger level is critical to optimum lifter performance. This is tied not only to lifter bleed down rates and oil viscosity, but also to also to the consistent function of the refill valve within the lifter. Clearances and surface finish within the lifter are the front-line defenders of performance. Hemi lifter tick is the inevitable result of poor manufacturing and inconsistent quality control.



Johnson has a little more room in their lifters than my previous Lunati lifters did
Viper lifter. He recommends part#2313V10R for non-racing applications and it's designed for a 47 second bleed down test (using bleed down fluid). I believe the Mopar low-bleed lifter was designed for 7 seconds. The Johnson lifter is the one available through SPT. Johnson recommends using oil no greater weight than 10w/40 with these lifters.
 

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GKIII

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Run whatever you want, however the manufacturer doesn't spec 0/5w-20 just for ****s and giggles. If you have a lifter issue, which is still fairly common, expect to be on the hook for the replacement engine when they test the oil.
 

BowDown

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Run whatever you want, however the manufacturer doesn't spec 0/5w-20 just for ****s and giggles. If you have a lifter issue, which is still fairly common, expect to be on the hook for the replacement engine when they test the oil.

Agree. I use the called for 5w20 because I dont want to F with it and if something happens, here are the keys, fix it and call me when its done.
 

bigdodge

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Run whatever you want, however the manufacturer doesn't spec 0/5w-20 just for ****s and giggles. If you have a lifter issue, which is still fairly common, expect to be on the hook for the replacement engine when they test the oil.
this is what I am afraid of.
 

SD Rebel

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It's simple, use 5W-20 or 0W-20 while under powertrain warranty, then switch when you get out of warranty to whatever you like. Whether you use 5W-20 or 5W-30, there is no definite proof of an engine lasting longer with either, it's all conjecture and personal opinion.

What isn't opinion is your warranty, they will sample your oil if they think they can get out of a $$$ warranty issue, and will pin it on you. High risk for probably negligible gains, since there are plenty of anecdotal evidence of Hemis lasting a long time with 5W-20, just as long as those claiming long mileage life with 5W-30.

I believe the expected roll-pin / lifter issues on Hemis is about 10%, if I can get that covered with my 5yr/60k warranty, I would prefer to do that. I'm already slightly at the edge by doing DIY oil changes, I don't want to push it by using a non-approved oil. But I'm personally open to going with a different weight later on, especially if it proves to actually be beneficial.
 

GKIII

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It's simple, use 5W-20 or 0W-20 while under powertrain warranty, then switch when you get out of warranty to whatever you like. Whether you use 5W-20 or 5W-30, there is no definite proof of an engine lasting longer with either, it's all conjecture and personal opinion.

What isn't opinion is your warranty, they will sample your oil if they think they can get out of a $$$ warranty issue, and will pin it on you. High risk for probably negligible gains, since there are plenty of anecdotal evidence of Hemis lasting a long time with 5W-20, just as long as those claiming long mileage life with 5W-30.

I believe the expected roll-pin / lifter issues on Hemis is about 10%, if I can get that covered with my 5yr/60k warranty, I would prefer to do that. I'm already slightly at the edge by doing DIY oil changes, I don't want to push it by using a non-approved oil. But I'm personally open to going with a different weight later on, especially if it proves to actually be beneficial.
It also applies if you have a MaxCare plan, so keep that in mind if you have one.
 

silver billet

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Lifter failure. Glad someone brought that up!

First it's a low probability. I personally believe it's way under 1% (there are literally millions of hemis on the road), but even if it was 5%, it's still not likely to happen to you.

Second: lifter failure is the reason I run Redline 5w-30. Empirically, it has been proven that Redline 5w-20, 5w-30, and 0w-30 all quiet the drive train in general, and have about an 80% chance of killing/hiding a hemi that has the tick. (This was done on another forum, and the threads are still active, look it up).

In other words; if you're worried about the tick, you absolutely should be running Redline, and one of the 30 weight variants is best.

As for why FCA specs lower and lower weights; no proof, but only answer that makes sense is fuel economy. You take a very slight hit by running thicker oil. Toyota is specing 0w-15 in one or more of their engines, and they actually gave that as a reason.
 

SD Rebel

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Lifter failure. Glad someone brought that up!

First it's a low probability. I personally believe it's way under 1% (there are literally millions of hemis on the road), but even if it was 5%, it's still not likely to happen to you.

Second: lifter failure is the reason I run Redline 5w-30. Empirically, it has been proven that Redline 5w-20, 5w-30, and 0w-30 all quiet the drive train in general, and have about an 80% chance of killing/hiding a hemi that has the tick. (This was done on another forum, and the threads are still active, look it up).

In other words; if you're worried about the tick, you absolutely should be running Redline, and one of the 30 weight variants is best.

As for why FCA specs lower and lower weights; no proof, but only answer that makes sense is fuel economy. You take a very slight hit by running thicker oil. Toyota is specing 0w-15 in one or more of their engines, and they actually gave that as a reason.

Meet in the middle then, Redline 5W-20? :)
 

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I have worked in auto dealership service dept’s for 35 years , serv advisor/serv manager, both Ford & Dodge, and have never been asked by the manufacturer for an oil sample, or heard of it being done , just maint reciepts, not to say they coudn’t, but never seen it myself. I use PUP 5w30 in both my ‘14 & ‘ 19 Rams with no issues.
 

bigdodge

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I have worked in auto dealership service dept’s for 35 years , serv advisor/serv manager, both Ford & Dodge, and have never been asked by the manufacturer for an oil sample, or heard of it being done , just maint reciepts, not to say they coudn’t, but never seen it myself. I use PUP 5w30 in both my ‘14 & ‘ 19 Rams with no issues.
care to state the milage of the two?
 

SpookyWatcher

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I have worked in auto dealership service dept’s for 35 years , serv advisor/serv manager, both Ford & Dodge, and have never been asked by the manufacturer for an oil sample, or heard of it being done , just maint reciepts, not to say they coudn’t, but never seen it myself. I use PUP 5w30 in both my ‘14 & ‘ 19 Rams with no issues.
Big Thanks for that. Yeah...seems like there are a lot TSMITR's that say stuff that is really FAR from reality and just love to state "technicalities". I get it...but again much thanks for the first hand info.
 

SD Rebel

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Big Thanks for that. Yeah...seems like there are a lot TSMITR's that say stuff that is really FAR from reality and just love to state "technicalities". I get it...but again much thanks for the first hand info.

Our companies 2018 GMC Sierra got the oil sampled after a rocker issue, we were denied because it was the wrong grade was used at a Walmart oil change. Again, we are just guys on the internet talking about our experiences, I wouldn't just choose one story because it makes you feel better about the choice you want to go with. Do some more research and get more advice.

Either way, from what DIRTRIDER says, you still have to prove you used the correct oil through maintenance receipts. You may want to ask DIRTRIDER if he would be denied warranty for using a non-spec oil if he didn't work at that dealership.

I would recommend you call your local dealership and ask them, ask the service advisor or lead tech, about what you want to do and if there are consequences for it. He may just say no worries, go right ahead. Another dealership may be the opposite.
 
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HSKR R/T

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For the OP: the quote above is a common thought, but a few years ago the manual still said 5w-30 could be used. The engine hasn't been revised in the last 6 years, but we've gone from 5w-30 to 0w-20 according to the manual.

I'm sure it's a non issue, guys on another forum have done this for years without any trouble whatsoever, either with lifter errors or MDS codes.

Not only that, the drivetrain quiets right down. It's noisy on that ditch water, but give it some thick 30 weight and it sounds a lot better.

All my opinion of course. Should mention that you may/will void your engine warranty if you run 30 weight and they find out about it. That should be balanced against how long you plan to keep your truck, and whether you really do think (like I do) that these trucks run far better on 30 weight.
There have been a few posts on here of guys who switched to 0W-20 and claimed it got rid of their Hemi tick. As well as guys running 5W-30 who still have the Hemi tick. Seems the weight of the oil isn't really the issue.
 

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