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Another suspension thread.. Questions on Eibach Pro Stage 2 and long term thoughts on Bilstein 5100’s

nbill96

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Hello all,

Long time reader on the forums, first time poster. I have a 2021 Ram Big Horn, Crew cab and I absolutely love the truck. I also have a 16 Wrangler in which I’m very familiar with the suspension (currently running Fox 2.5 coilovers, long arms, 37’s). But these trucks are definitely a different animal that I’m still learning about.

I currently run the Bilstein 5100 leveling shocks. Have run this kit on 2 previous trucks now, both 100k + miles on the kits with no other modifications and no issues. When I got my 21 Ram I slapped these on and 40k later I started hearing some noises in the steering I know to be consistent with worn ball joints. Took it to the dealer (was under warranty) and they said ball joints were fine. Few months later, driving down the road (thankfully only going about 20 mph) I hear a pop and think I blew a tire. Nope, blew my whole right side out with a ball joint failure! (Conveniently for the dealer my truck is now out of warranty). Took the truck to a reputable mechanic in my area who informed me that the stock UCA’s are pretty much maxed out at stock height. So.. for those of you running just the 5100’s with no other modifications, please consider adding the UCA’s so you don’t end up like me. I do not off-road the truck, it’s my daily driver and occasional tower that I baby and I still had this issue.

Now, for those of you running the Eibach Pro Stage 2 kits (thinking about ordering one) I see Eibach claims you do not need UCA’s which I’m skeptical about. Is anyone running this kit with/without UCA’s that can provide some input? Don’t want to end up stranded again. For those with aftermarket UCA’s, what are you running? Have been looking at BDS but haven’t been able to find much info on them. Open to other recommendations as well, preferably in the 2-3” range. TIA!
 

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I had the Eibach coil overs and was told me the same thing. They are nuts stating you don't UCA's, among other things... The Pro Stage 2 are couple inches longer than OEM struts and at full droop things don't look good at all. Everything is at or beyond the limit. My axles were at the max angle pinching the CV boots along with stretching brake lines.
 
That’s what I figured. Good to know, are you running something different now?
 
I went with Bilstein 4600, which are basically HD struts in OEM length. I kinda gave up on the lift as I'm eyeing new trucks and don't want to sink anymore money into this one. If I were to stay the course it would be a boxed control arm and lift which does not compromise dive shaft angles. @boogielander will get you pointed in the right direction
 
I highly recommend upgrading UCA. Quality isn't there anymore with OEM stamped steel and plastic.

I've ran Zone Off-road and now BDS because they came with my lift kit, along with FOX 2.5
 
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It depends heavily on what you do with your truck. If you can get a good alignment with the stock UCA's, how is that different than stock? If you run your truck hard you will push the limits of the up and down stroke of the suspension and you will destroy your ball joints. That said, if you are going to pay the money for one of these trucks, why cheap out. Don't use pucks and get good aftermarket UCA's. You've all heard the stories. But you're going to be the one that doesn't have issues? Do it and get the best.
 
well i always tell my customers "doesn't matter what they tell you, just do it because swapping uca does not cost you extra labor charge when doing the front. however, when/ if you need to replace uca later by itself, it's additional cost"
and i am skeptical about eibach's claim of no uca needed (tbh eiback just feels like a rebranded bilstein lol). the only company that i will trust when they claim "no uca needed" is carli commuter, and that is because they have a internal limiter that prevents the coilover from over drooping. Remove that limiter, and UCA is needed.

for UCA, skip BDS. go with a boxed design from Carli or Thuren. those two are the only two options that are designed for high speed offroad, the type of offroading that actually stress test the suspension.

Or, just copy my homework. stress tested guarantee to work.
1764914460587.png
(With 800lb constant load)
1764914583178.png
(with ~500lb constant load)
 
well i always tell my customers "doesn't matter what they tell you, just do it because swapping uca does not cost you extra labor charge when doing the front. however, when/ if you need to replace uca later by itself, it's additional cost"
and i am skeptical about eibach's claim of no uca needed (tbh eiback just feels like a rebranded bilstein lol). the only company that i will trust when they claim "no uca needed" is carli commuter, and that is because they have a internal limiter that prevents the coilover from over drooping. Remove that limiter, and UCA is needed.

for UCA, skip BDS. go with a boxed design from Carli or Thuren. those two are the only two options that are designed for high speed offroad, the type of offroading that actually stress test the suspension.

Or, just copy my homework. stress tested guarantee to work.

(With 800lb constant load)

(with ~500lb constant load)
The coil over Eibachs are so much longer than OEM I had to use a crowbar and force the strut into the lower control arm. That was my second clue this was going to be a bad idea. Eibachs are just like having a top hat spacer. Side note, mine didn't dampen for ****, downright scary on the highway floating all over the place.
 

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