Another, Push to Start NOT Working

[FLiPMaRC]

I believe you can get the red TRX start/stop button on eBay for $40-50, and it takes 5-10mins to replace.

 

[mikeru82]

I believe you can get the red TRX start/stop button on eBay for $40-50, and it takes 5-10mins to replace.

^^This! Just for fun I upgraded my previous truck with the TRX start button. It was less than $40 shipped from BAM Wholesale website and took less than 5 minutes to replace.

 

[FLiPMaRC]

^^This! Just for fun I upgraded my previous truck with the TRX start button. It was less than $40 shipped from BAM Wholesale website and took less than 5 minutes to replace.

This one? Mopar 68453905AA RAM 1500 Ignition Switch Red Button Mopar OEM 68453905AA | Auto Parts

 

[should_have]

I mentioned a Red Start/Stop Button would not have been objectionable to the Service Manger if they had that part on hand. In addition to the extra horsepower everyone gets for said mod

 

[TPettis0311]

So what I am reading I need to invest in a $50 part and put it in my glove box. Any issues?

 

[mikeru82]

This one? Mopar 68453905AA RAM 1500 Ignition Switch Red Button Mopar OEM 68453905AA | Auto Parts

That's the one.

 

[should_have]

So what I am reading I need to invest in a $50 part and put it in my glove box. Any issues?

Yeap, if your truck doesn't break down in your driveway and your 150 miles away from home. Maybe cheap insurance. At least it wasn't the $450 RF Hub behind the rear seat.

 

[FLiPMaRC]

I was not aware that the ignition switch in our trucks were prone to failure.

 

[should_have]

I was not aware that the ignition switch in our trucks were prone to failure.

It's probably not prone to failure but I did find a few post where said switch was bad. I also had a driver side door handle break. Not giving up on my RAM yet but I don't like how hot my Transmission Runs when Towing my 5K Travel Trailer

 

[6of36]

It's probably not prone to failure but I did find a few post where said switch was bad. I also had a driver side door handle break. Not giving up on my RAM yet but I don't like how hot my Transmission Runs when Towing my 5K Travel Trailer

As long as load is balanced properly, 5,000 is easy.

 

[Jarrod32]

So what I am reading I need to invest in a $50 part and put it in my glove box. Any issues?

That's what I was thinking as I was reading this thread...

 

[should_have]

Well, the saga continues. When I picked up my truck last week, I put a battery charger, 4.3 Amp CTEK - 40-206 MXS 5.0 Fully Automatic, on my new battery overnight to top off. I thought the charging voltages while driving around was kind of high, 14.3v, but apparently that is normal. Drove around several days, short trips, 5-10 minutes and one 30-minute trip. On my 3hr drive home charging voltage dropped to 13.9v. Set outside for two days without starting, I finally decided to hook up my OBD Scanner see if there where any fault codes, Even thou the check engine light went out the next morning after battery was replaced, I hooked up scanner and got this message “ATTENTION Low Battery Voltage”. Battery voltage was at 12.12v, 28%, Internal R=2400mOhm and 125CCA per my handheld TOPDON ArtiBattery101 Tester. But the truck fired right, no hesitation at all. I wanted to test drive my truck on the lawn to test my 4-wheel drive, Auto, Hi and Low to make sure it was functional. Due to the previous code, P1DF3 – Power Train System after I picked-up my truck. Along with it being towed, Front wheels in the air and steer wheels on the ground. 4-wheel drive seemed functional. After a short test drive, I hooked my TOPDON Tester backed up and the voltage read 12.69v 100%, 976 CCA 100%, Internal R=3.07mOhm Good Battery. 3-HOURS Later my NEW, on week Battery, was back down to 12.17v. Need to try a different method/location to hook-up my Clamp Amp Meter, other than the positive cable at the battery post. Hard to connect and to close to the body controller, can get different parasitic readings depending how I hold and rotate my clamp meter. Trying to determine if I have parasitic drain or bad battery. Probably would have just been better/faster to take battery out, charge and monitor for two days…

Additionally, my old Actron CP9145 is unable to clear reset fault code P1DF3.

 

[should_have]

Update from from the Saga above which I wrote this morning from yesterday woes. After I wrote this up, I went outside this morning to check my battery to see what was going on.

CTEK Charger stopped charging , ERROR LAMP Lit

STEP 5 ANALYSE - Tests if the battery can hold charge. Batteries that can not hold charge may need to be replaced.

If the error lamp is lit, check the following:1. Is the chargers positive lead connected to the battery’s positive pole? 2. Is the charger connected to a 12V battery? 3. Has charging been interrupted in STEP 1, 2 or 5? Restart the charger by pressing the MODE button. If charging is still being interrupted, the battery... STEP 1: ...is seriously sulfated and may need to be replaced. STEP 2: ...can not accept charge and may need to be replaced. STEP 5: ...can not keep charge and may need to be replaced..

Instead of trying to continue charging by pressing the MODE button. I decided to monitor voltage and current draw with the tools I had. Battery read 12.39v 65% 3.16mOhm 949 CCA up from last night 12.17v 28% 24.00mOhm 125CCA. I hooked up my clamp meter to the negative battery terminal, ease of access vs the positive cable ay battery. Current draw started out at .300 to .600 mAmps, 30minutes later .020 to .060 m Amps, 60 minutes .070 to .110, 180minutes .040 to 140 mAmps, 9 hours -.120 to 100mAmps. Will check tomorrow morning hoping my Amp Meter batterie hold overnight. Battery still reads good 12.44v 73% 3.23mOhm 926 CCA.

 

[6of36]

Update from from the Saga above which I wrote this morning from yesterday woes. After I wrote this up, I went outside this morning to check my battery to see what was going on.

CTEK Charger stopped charging , ERROR LAMP Lit

STEP 5 ANALYSE - Tests if the battery can hold charge. Batteries that can not hold charge may need to be replaced.

If the error lamp is lit, check the following:1. Is the chargers positive lead connected to the battery’s positive pole? 2. Is the charger connected to a 12V battery? 3. Has charging been interrupted in STEP 1, 2 or 5? Restart the charger by pressing the MODE button. If charging is still being interrupted, the battery... STEP 1: ...is seriously sulfated and may need to be replaced. STEP 2: ...can not accept charge and may need to be replaced. STEP 5: ...can not keep charge and may need to be replaced..

Instead of trying to continue charging by pressing the MODE button. I decided to monitor voltage and current draw with the tools I had. Battery read 12.39v 65% 3.16mOhm 949 CCA up from last night 12.17v 28% 24.00mOhm 125CCA. I hooked up my clamp meter to the negative battery terminal, ease of access vs the positive cable ay battery. Current draw started out at .300 to .600 mAmps, 30minutes later .020 to .060 m Amps, 60 minutes .070 to .110, 180minutes .040 to 140 mAmps, 9 hours -.120 to 100mAmps. Will check tomorrow morning hoping my Amp Meter batterie hold overnight. Battery still reads good 12.44v 73% 3.23mOhm 926 CCA.

I haven't worked as a mechanic in years, but are you sure your meters work with AGM batteries? I kow for things like power tools NiCad and Li-Ion batteries need different chargers, and I think I saw a AGM switch on a charger once.

 

[should_have]

I haven't worked as a mechanic in years, but are you sure your meters work with AGM batteries? I know for things like power tools NiCad and Li-Ion batteries need different chargers, and I think I saw a AGM switch on a charger once.

Yes, charger has a AMG Setting, but My battery is a Standard Lead Acid Battery.