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Amateur Radio (ham) install

Couchsachraga

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Since I've had the truck for a week I'm finally finding time to start a few "necessary" modifications... one of which is adding my IC2820.

Right now I'm planning on using mag mounts on the roof (not the best, but if the antennas are up there I need to be able to move them when I have canoes on the roof). Rather than use my favorite Larsen 2/70 I'm switching to 1/4 waves for VHF and UHF... in theory in access mode I can make it in to the garage without the antennas getting tweaked TOO much.

Looking at where to route the antenna wires, there is a plug just to the rear of the floor storage boxes that looks promising. From there under the floor (likely along the box for protection). At the moment I'm planning on the radio being under the passenger seat or hopefully under the center seat (bench seat Laramie).

Another option would be to run the coax through the rubber plug along with the eTorque battery cables, but I'd like to stay away from those if I can.

Hopefully this post will be helpful to others.
 
Since I've had the truck for a week I'm finally finding time to start a few "necessary" modifications... one of which is adding my IC2820.

Right now I'm planning on using mag mounts on the roof (not the best, but if the antennas are up there I need to be able to move them when I have canoes on the roof). Rather than use my favorite Larsen 2/70 I'm switching to 1/4 waves for VHF and UHF... in theory in access mode I can make it in to the garage without the antennas getting tweaked TOO much.

Looking at where to route the antenna wires, there is a plug just to the rear of the floor storage boxes that looks promising. From there under the floor (likely along the box for protection). At the moment I'm planning on the radio being under the passenger seat or hopefully under the center seat (bench seat Laramie).

Another option would be to run the coax through the rubber plug along with the eTorque battery cables, but I'd like to stay away from those if I can.

Hopefully this post will be helpful to others.

In that you have a rig with a removal face you're at an advantage to me as all of my VHF radios don't.

I've never run my ham radio(s) in any of my Rams because of the interior limitations with the bucket seat/console. Since my '19 has the bench seat I've thought about installing my FTM-3200D. It still wouldn't be pretty.

I'm not sure how you plan on running the coax from the frame up to the roof. In the past I've used RG-188 (I think) which is pretty small and ran it through a rear door weatherstrip and over the roof. RG-188 is so small I didn't even break the air seal.

There is a large round rubber grommet for the hood release cable and it looks like you could easily sneak a piece of RG-58 if you're prone to going that way (50 watts).

**** Luck and 73s,
Dusty

2019 Ram 1500 Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Now at: 005138 miles.
 
1s version of the install is all done:

Mag mount on the roof (until I know what racks I have up there to carry canoes I won't know for sure exactly where I'd want to put an NMO mount), coax down between the cab and bed, then in to the cab via the 1" hole (I kept the original plug and purchased a new plastic grommet) that is just to the rear of the floor storage boxes. From there the coax runs under the carpet (right along the box for protection) to under the passenger seat where it exits back from under the carpet (there is an overlapped seam there).

The radio is under the passenger seat where the jack was - LOTS of room. In theory the jack fits behind the rear passenger seat, but I'm still working that out.

Power is fused by the battery, then run through the cable release rubber grommet you noted, under the dash console to above the passenger footwell, then along with the other wiring in the plastic tray that is revealed when you remove the passenger door floor trim. There is already wiring running to the passenger seat, so I used the same channel for the radio power.

The head control cable is run along with the power as far as the center console (dash, not seat), then pops out on the driver side (so my wife doesn't have to look at it...), and I've mounted the head to a 45 degree bracket screwed to the drawer that pulls out from the center console. If you have fixed-head radios figure out how to remove that drawer and fabricate mounts for 1 or 2 radios... perfect place for them.

Lastly my mic runs from the radio, not the head, so I loosened the tray in front of the center seat "console" so I could run the cord under it (again, so my wife doesn't have to look at it). I'll likely put a mic hook on the side of the tray, but for now I've just set the mic in it. I do need a longer mic cable.

Originally I'd planned on a VHF antenna as well as UHF antenna, but reading up on it a bit it appears for the limited amount I use UHF I can likely get by with my 1/4 wave 2m antenna. SWR is fine for 2m, I need to borrow a better analyzer so I can check UHF (or finally purchase one!).

Trim pieces remove easily and sensibly if you take your time; have a small screwdriver and a few plastic pin popping tools makes it easier.
 
1s version of the install is all done:

Mag mount on the roof (until I know what racks I have up there to carry canoes I won't know for sure exactly where I'd want to put an NMO mount), coax down between the cab and bed, then in to the cab via the 1" hole (I kept the original plug and purchased a new plastic grommet) that is just to the rear of the floor storage boxes. From there the coax runs under the carpet (right along the box for protection) to under the passenger seat where it exits back from under the carpet (there is an overlapped seam there).

The radio is under the passenger seat where the jack was - LOTS of room. In theory the jack fits behind the rear passenger seat, but I'm still working that out.

Power is fused by the battery, then run through the cable release rubber grommet you noted, under the dash console to above the passenger footwell, then along with the other wiring in the plastic tray that is revealed when you remove the passenger door floor trim. There is already wiring running to the passenger seat, so I used the same channel for the radio power.

The head control cable is run along with the power as far as the center console (dash, not seat), then pops out on the driver side (so my wife doesn't have to look at it...), and I've mounted the head to a 45 degree bracket screwed to the drawer that pulls out from the center console. If you have fixed-head radios figure out how to remove that drawer and fabricate mounts for 1 or 2 radios... perfect place for them.

Lastly my mic runs from the radio, not the head, so I loosened the tray in front of the center seat "console" so I could run the cord under it (again, so my wife doesn't have to look at it). I'll likely put a mic hook on the side of the tray, but for now I've just set the mic in it. I do need a longer mic cable.

Originally I'd planned on a VHF antenna as well as UHF antenna, but reading up on it a bit it appears for the limited amount I use UHF I can likely get by with my 1/4 wave 2m antenna. SWR is fine for 2m, I need to borrow a better analyzer so I can check UHF (or finally purchase one!).

Trim pieces remove easily and sensibly if you take your time; have a small screwdriver and a few plastic pin popping tools makes it easier.

The mich. doesn't connect to the head on that ICOM?

Bests,
Dusty

2019 Ram 1500 Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Now at: 005138 miles.
 
Radio base under dashboard on driver side, power and antenna routed forward to engine compartment. Mag mount on back of cab. Am using a 12” dual band antenna
 
Thanks for posting your threads. Looking to install either my Yaesu FTM-350 or FT-8800 in my 2019 Ram Big Horn Sport. Lots of great ideas.

73 de Jim K3CY
Pennsylvania
 
The mount is just a piece of plastic screwed to the back of radio head. The other end of the plastic is screwed to the rear of the little tray that is on top of the dashboard. To route the cables from the radio base to the head they removed the entire front of the console, it pretty much comes off in one piece and just routed it through an open area.

Since the plastic spaces the head above the dashboard, I would think any radio head would fit. I will get more pictures later

If you haven’t figured it out, I let my local car toys do the actual installation, I just watched :cool:
 
1s version of the install is all done:

Mag mount on the roof (until I know what racks I have up there to carry canoes I won't know for sure exactly where I'd want to put an NMO mount), coax down between the cab and bed, then in to the cab via the 1" hole (I kept the original plug and purchased a new plastic grommet) that is just to the rear of the floor storage boxes. From there the coax runs under the carpet (right along the box for protection) to under the passenger seat where it exits back from under the carpet (there is an overlapped seam there).

The radio is under the passenger seat where the jack was - LOTS of room. In theory the jack fits behind the rear passenger seat, but I'm still working that out.

Power is fused by the battery, then run through the cable release rubber grommet you noted, under the dash console to above the passenger footwell, then along with the other wiring in the plastic tray that is revealed when you remove the passenger door floor trim. There is already wiring running to the passenger seat, so I used the same channel for the radio power.

The head control cable is run along with the power as far as the center console (dash, not seat), then pops out on the driver side (so my wife doesn't have to look at it...), and I've mounted the head to a 45 degree bracket screwed to the drawer that pulls out from the center console. If you have fixed-head radios figure out how to remove that drawer and fabricate mounts for 1 or 2 radios... perfect place for them.

Lastly my mic runs from the radio, not the head, so I loosened the tray in front of the center seat "console" so I could run the cord under it (again, so my wife doesn't have to look at it). I'll likely put a mic hook on the side of the tray, but for now I've just set the mic in it. I do need a longer mic cable.

Originally I'd planned on a VHF antenna as well as UHF antenna, but reading up on it a bit it appears for the limited amount I use UHF I can likely get by with my 1/4 wave 2m antenna. SWR is fine for 2m, I need to borrow a better analyzer so I can check UHF (or finally purchase one!).

Trim pieces remove easily and sensibly if you take your time; have a small screwdriver and a few plastic pin popping tools makes it easier.
Question, you said there is a 1" hole just to the rear of the storage? Can you provide a pic?
 
Question, you said there is a 1" hole just to the rear of the storage? Can you provide a pic?

I don't have a picture, but I'll describe better where it is / how to see it.

Front under the truck (passengers side in my case) crawl under the rear door and look up at the storage box in the floor. To the rear you'll see the plug I"m referring to.

Front inside the truck you need to remove the floor storage trim (easy) and trim around the rear seat so you can pull the carpet up to get to it from the top.
 
Brand new to the forum, so hey guys! Just got a new 2019 Rebel and love it.

Looking to mount my Yaesu FTM 400XDR with a compactenna.

I put on a RetraxOne XR with a slot mount over the bed, so that's where I plan to put the antenna.

Has anyone run cables into the rear or bed? How did you do that? In my previous truck there was a rubber grommet underneath the rear passenger seat that allowed things to pass through, and then you sealed that up for waterproofing. That's what I'd like to do.

So far my plan is to put the head unit into a bracket that slides into the rubber upright cellphone holder so it doesn't block my view. That way it will sit right in front o the CD holder and won't take up any usable storage room, and it's wide enough that I'd still have room to put my cellphone in the other side right next to it.

Then run the power cables through the grommet, and run the antenna cables out into the bed to mount the antenna on the rails. You can see the rails here. I have a Compactenna that I can either mount to a crossrail, or I'd prefer to just mount it right into the track. I plan on removing the crossrails when I don't need them.

In my previous truck I did a mount by the hood, but I didn't like looking at the antenna all the time and having it take up space, particularly a stubby and fat compactenna.

19189

Rhino-Rack has a bracket like this already, but it's expensive ($23 for the flat NMO mount, or $95 for the folding mount). I really like the idea of the folding mount because I could get it down and out of the way temporarily if I was carrying a flat load on the bars. But $95 is rich!

1919019191
 

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