Alignment issues

[RazorbackRam]

Hey guys I need your help. I went this morning to get an alignment done on my 19 after I put my 2.5 motofab level on my 4x4. They tried to align my truck twice and they needed up telling me they couldn’t get it aligned. They said the problem is one side camber is positive and the other side is negative. They got the toe into spec but the caster and caber are still a little off. I’ve attached my sheet. The first time they did it I got in and started to drive and my steering wheel was way off. I complained and they told me to bring it back and they would try to do better even though they said the first time they ran out of adjustment. They got it better. They offered me a full return if I wasn’t satisfied.
The picture with all three in red was when they started and the double picture was when they fixed it the first time and the bottom was the final one I left with.

 

[ironking]

If you didn’t get new upper control arms, get some and put those on. Then get it re-aligned. I would t drive much how it is now. You’re tires will wear fast.


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[RazorbackRam]

Hmm I haven’t thought about that on the upper control arms. I wouldn’t think that would cause an issue with alignment just possible bad angles on the ball joints . I’ll have to look into.

 

[ironking]

Hmm I haven’t thought about that on the upper control arms. I wouldn’t think that would cause an issue with alignment just possible bad angles on the ball joints . I’ll have to look into.

Negative. Huge misconception in the “Ram world”. I can’t speak for every manufacture of suspension parts, but most change the geometry of the UCA to add more castor. Castor and camber go hand in hand. Really, any adjustment made will throw off another. So adding castor will also affect your camber, but will be in a positive way to help get you in spec. You need UCAs. Almost guaranteed.


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[clazer]

One other thing to check is the equipment the shop is running. The first place I went to get aligned couldn’t get their sensors to work on my wheels/tires. They ended up trying to make it work and completely screwed it up. I limped it to the dealer where they did it right. When I say completely screwed up: wheel was at 10 o’clock driving straight and the tires were hitting and rubbing in places they never had before.

 

[RazorbackRam]

It was firestone. If that was saying anything. I’ve never used them before in alignment but I went there because I had a coupon and I could schedule online since I drive a truck for a living me getting home is hit or miss. I mean I only put 6k a year on my truck. I think I’m going to do control arms anyway because I do have the off road group on top of the 2.5 level. I didn’t do the arms because I wasn’t getting any popping and my angles didn’t look bad. Any suggestions for a set of control arms that will fix my problems? I’ve looked at rough country and I’ve looked at zone and tuff country uni ball.

 

[ironking]

It was firestone. If that was saying anything. I’ve never used them before in alignment but I went there because I had a coupon and I could schedule online since I drive a truck for a living me getting home is hit or miss. I mean I only put 6k a year on my truck. I think I’m going to do control arms anyway because I do have the off road group on top of the 2.5 level. I didn’t do the arms because I wasn’t getting any popping and my angles didn’t look bad. Any suggestions for a set of control arms that will fix my problems? I’ve looked at rough country and I’ve looked at zone and tuff country uni ball.

I’d stay away from Uniballs personally. My first recommendation would be Icon tubular w/Delta Joint. You can also try SPC. I’ve never used ones from Rough Country and such.


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