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Aggressive Stance

AWAllen

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I have a 2025 Ram Rebel and am looking to give it an aggressive stance without changing the tire size.Are wheel spacers a good option? I heard that they are hard on the drive train. Has anyone had any experience with them?
 
I had 1.5” spacers on my 22 Rebel for 60000k. Stance was perfect and no issues with them what so ever. Shopping for new ones right now for my 25 Rebel.
 
Also 1.5" on mine. 14000 miles on them.
Bora spacers.
There are cheaper options. Just make sure they are hub centric
 
Do the Bilstein 5100 front end level on clip 4, or clip 5 with a 1" rear block, and add the 1.5" spacers and the truck will look very nice.View attachment 193462
What is your truck’s overall height from ground to fin? I’m looking to do the same to mine but want to still be able to fit in the garage.
 
My garage door is a lowly 7' tall and I park in the garage every day without any issues at all. In Florida, we also have additional hurricane bracing on our garage doors that hang down into the opening if the door doesn't go high enough when opened, and I still have no issues.

I have the 5100s on clip 5 and I added a 1" block to the rear because it was "too" level. It looked like it was lower in the rear even when it wasn't based on measurement. So, unless you want a minor lift, you could go to clip 4, which maintains a slight forward lean.
 
Why did you go with the 1 inch block in the rear instead of the bilstein 5100 rear shocks, which say they’ll add an inch of rear lift to the rebel?
 
Its the springs that add the lift in the rear not the shocks but the shocks need to be able to support the additional lift from either longer springs or blocks. In this case 5100s support up to additional 2”, 1” if its a rebel since they have the longer spring from the factory:


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Plus, I got the 1" spacers for $40. But, as mentioned, the shocks will allow for 1" additional travel, but don't provide any lift.
 
I want to do spacers, but prefer lengthening my studs and avoiding the spacers that bolt to the hub first. Mainly because I don't want to remove my wheels to re-torque the spacers, rather do the it in one go.

I'm assuming I can simply use the bolt to hub spacers if I can remove the wheel studs on them?
 
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The spacer that I mentioned above was rear spring spacer for lift.

You can remove the wheel studs and install longer studs, but I don't see the point. Taking the wheel off and retorquing after 100 or so miles in big deal. You shouldn't have to retorque them after that unless you remove them.
 
The spacer that I mentioned above was rear spring spacer for lift.

You can remove the wheel studs and install longer studs, but I don't see the point. Taking the wheel off and retorquing after 100 or so miles in big deal. You shouldn't have to retorque them after that unless you remove them.

Gotcha. I agree it should be fine, but I never like the idea of a "clamp on a clamp" design. I just like the single easy torque check.
 
Its the springs that add the lift in the rear not the shocks but the shocks need to be able to support the additional lift from either longer springs or blocks. In this case 5100s support up to additional 2”, 1” if its a rebel since they have the longer spring from the factory:


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Thanks for the insight. Can you successfully add a 1” block to the stock rebel rear end and not have to replace the shocks or springs?
 
No idea especially when 5100 replacements can be had for stupid cheap. Im not a fan of spacers at all but to each their own. I prefer to do it right and not mess up ride quality for a lift. Longer springs and a shock that can handle it will always be my recommendation.

5th Gens are not S10s so if you can afford a 5th Gen you can afford a few hundred bucks to do it right.


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What's not right about adding a block? Trucks get blocks for lifts with leaf springs all the time. The block goes under the rear spring giving the lift. It doesn't change the spring in any way. It just lift the lower mount for the spring up. If the stock shock has the travel to accept that 1", then you're not damaging or short cutting anything.

Spacers on the front are a different story, but the rear is so simple, there's no "doing it wrong"

@PurpleRT, adding 5100s to the rear will do absolutely nothing for giving additional lift. You stating that spacers are bad when 5100s are so cheap is just fundamentally wrong. Shocks don't provide lift unless they replace the factory location of the lower spring mount. In the rear, shocks absorb road vibrations and bumps only.
 
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What's not right about adding a block? Trucks get blocks for lifts with leaf springs all the time. The block goes under the rear spring giving the lift. It doesn't change the spring in any way. It just lift the lower mount for the spring up. If the stock shock has the travel to accept that 1", then you're not damaging or short cutting anything.

Spacers on the front are a different story, but the rear is so simple, there's no "doing it wrong"

@PurpleRT, adding 5100s to the rear will do absolutely nothing for giving additional lift. You stating that spacers are bad when 5100s are so cheap is just fundamentally wrong. Shocks don't provide lift unless they replace the factory location of the lower spring mount. In the rear, shocks absorb road vibrations and bumps only.

Im referring to 5100s since they support up to a 2” inch lift (rather if thats achieved via springs or blocks, but keep in mind if your using the stock rebel springs since they already provide a 1” lift over standard factory) I’m not sure if the factory Bilstein can/would handle that without sacrificing ride quality. What I should have also said was that longer springs are rather inexpensive not that the 5100s will provide any lift because they won’t but will support up to a 2” lift according to the manuf.

I know spacers are pretty cheap lets say $100 thats why most choose to go that route and will argue your head off if you throw out more expensive options out there but 5100s are lets say $200…rough estimates. Longer springs use to be around $300 or less (Bilstein even have a B12 spring as well).

Rough estimate but let’s say $500 minus your labor you’ll have a shock that will “support” up to a 2” lift and longer springs. Giving you a slight lift and more importantly keeping ride quality.

$500 > vs $100

But you’re driving let’s say a 50k plus truck… $500 shouldn’t make or break you obviously there’s even more expensive options out there but that’s overkill for what most people need out of their DDs.


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For what it's worth, my Rebel has been 2" in the rear including the OEM 1" for over 4 years now on the OEM Bilstein rear shocks. I do have the resi Bilsteins which doesn't affect shock length, but I haven't broken them yet with full droop. They'll support 0-2". Currently sitting at 64k miles, and once the shocks get worn the whole suspension gets an overhaul.
 
@PurpleRT, are you referring to the front or rear when discussing the 5100s? It almost sounds like you're referencing the front. I agree 100% that the proper way to lift the front is with the 5100s, 6112s, or something designed for front level. But, you responded when I mentioned a 1" rear block. There's no need for 5100s for the rear. The factory shocks will support the extra travel of 1 more inch.

On the front, spacers are just dangerous. I used the 5100's on clip 5 for my Rebel, new UCAs, and also replaced the sway bar end links with extended length links.

Now, the original question asked was about wheel spacers. I also have 1.5" wheel spacers all around to provide the aggressive stance on my truck. This was all in response to the OP asking about aggressive stance.
 
Why did you go with the 1 inch block in the rear instead of the bilstein 5100 rear shocks, which say they’ll add an inch of rear lift to the rebel?
The shocks do not add 1" lift, they are designed to work with up to 1" lift over stock.
 

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