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Advice for At Hime DIY a tire Rotation

cervelo15

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Hello all, I did some digging in the forum to see if there was any info about how those of you are executing at home DIY tire rotations. Being the economy the way it is, I’d like to start doing the tire rotations myself and save some money and not be held up by needing to get an appointment. It’s cheap insurance for a $1500 set of tires.

It seems pretty straightforward, but id like to hear your steps for tire rotation. Any special tools? Best points for placing jack and jack stands? Any things to watch out for?

I saw a lot of YT videos, but none really focused on the best places to lift the Ram.

I saw those portable lifts, but Id fear our trucks are too heavy for it (Not to mention the price tag).
 

LaxDfns15

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I rotate my own tires every 5k (easy to remember). I will eventually get a set of QuickJack lifts, but I'll use my floor jack for a little while longer. I usually lift one side at a time and just swap front to back. I don't do side to side like some do as I don't have a way to lift the whole truck at once. I just lift on the frame pretty close to between the doors where it picks up both tires, swap them, move to the other side. Jack stands under the frame near the tire once I take the tire off, but I don't let the jack down. I just use them in case the jack fails.

Do not, I repeat DO NOT, use the OEM scissor jack. Get a 2-3 ton floor jack if you're going to be lifting the truck like that. I threw the OEM jack away and put a bottle jack in its place.
 

Richard320

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Drop the spare. Crack all the lug nuts.

Floor jack whichever tire you want to do first. Install the spare. Switch to wherever that tire goes. Jack, swap, repeat. Reinstall spare. Torque lug nuts. This is also a good time to check and adjust the pressure n the spare.
 

Dewey

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1)Break the lug nuts loose on all four wheels with a breaker bar.
2)Jack up front end at frame/suspension cross brace ahead of the engine then lower front end onto jack stands on each side of the frame towards the front. Tires about 4” off the floor.
3)Jack up the back end at the rear differential and lower onto jack stands on each side of rear frame. Just high enough that tires are off the floor. As you raise the back end the front tires will be closer to the floor thus the reason for at least 4” in step 2.
4)Remove lug nuts and rotate tires. I criss-cross the front to opposite side rear and send each rear straight to the front on same side.
5)Lower truck back to ground with lug nuts already hand tight and then torque to spec. Much easier with tires on ground and not spinning.

I use an air wrench for quickly spinning lug nuts off and on but always do final tightening with a torque wrench. Using a heavy duty floor jack and jack stands goes without saying for safety reasons. Also I like to have the tires just slightly off the floor. The wheels are heavy and this prevents a lot of unnecessary lifting. I basically just roll the wheel up onto my foot to position. Easy peasy. Only wish I had one of those fancy 4 point lifts in my garage. Sure would make everything simpler.
 
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LaxDfns15

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1)Break the lug nuts loose on all four wheels with a breaker bar.
2)Jack up front end at frame/suspension cross brace ahead of the engine then lower front end onto jack stands on each side of the frame towards the front. Tires about 4” off the floor.
3)Jack up the back end at the rear differential and lower onto jack stands on each side of rear frame. Just high enough that tires are off the floor. As you raise the back end the front tires will be closer to the floor thus the reason for at least 4” in step 2.
4)Remove lug nuts and rotate tires. I criss-cross the front to opposite side rear and send each rear straight to the front on same side.
5)Lower truck back to ground with lug nuts already hand tight and then torque to spec. Much easier with tires on ground and not spinning.

I use an air wrench for quickly spinning lug nuts off and on but always do final tightening with a torque wrench. Using a heavy duty floor jack and jack stands goes without saying for safety reasons. Also I like to have the tires just slightly off the floor. The wheels are heavy and this prevents a lot of unnecessary lifting. I basically just roll the wheel up onto my foot to position. Easy peasy. Only wish I had one of those fancy 4 point lifts in my garage. Sure would make everything simpler.
I wish I had jack stands tall enough to sit the truck on with the tires off the ground 4". Or even have the tires off the ground.
 

Alejandro_Andretti

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I think the best DIY for tire rotations is schedule a appt first thing in the AM at americas tire or any place that offers free tire rotations.. takes 20 mins tops and you can drive off or tip the kid that does it 3-10$ for his work..
 

HSKR R/T

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But a good set of jack stands. Only need two. Buy a nice electric impact. I have a 1/2" drive medium torque Milwaukee Fuel impact. Jack front up, place jack stands under the front lower strut area on control arm. This allows you to use regular jack stands instead of needing to buy tall ones. Remove front wheels. No need to crack lug nuts before jacking with the impact. Place jack under rear differential. Jack the entire rear end up at once. I trust my jack, so don't use jack stands on rear. I also swap front tires to opposite rear, and move reara straight forward. I start the lug nuts by handz then run them in with impact, but don't go crazy with ugaduggas. I do rear wheels first and lower back to ground, then install front wheels. Jack up, remove jack stands and lower. Then grab you rllr friendly quality 1/2" drive torque wrench and torque to 120 ft/lbs.
 

jkm312

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Wether or not you rotate the tires yourself or, have it done at a tire shop. It pays to re-torque them a second time about a 100 miles later with a torque wrench.
 

Dewey

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Wether or not you rotate the tires yourself or, have it done at a tire shop. It pays to re-torque them a second time about a 100 miles later with a torque wrench.
I honestly never noticed a difference and have been rotating tires my entire life. That’s just a disclaimer from tire shops to remove all liability if they forget to tighten any of your lug nuts.
 

Jako

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I think the best DIY for tire rotations is schedule a appt first thing in the AM at americas tire or any place that offers free tire rotations.. takes 20 mins tops and you can drive off or tip the kid that does it 3-10$ for his work..
The one issue I find with "shops" doing the tire rotation is the torque on the lug nuts. My vehicles vary from 80 to 125 and I doubt that the "tech" properly torques the lug nuts with the impact gun. Had a serious hard time removing lug nuts due to the high torque setting. I was home so I was able to resolve the problem but I would not have been able to change the wheel if I had to rely on the kit that came with the vehicle.
 

Idahoktm

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All you need is a floor jack and two jack stands. If you jack up the truck under the lower A arms and at the rear axle, you won't have to jack the truck up as high as using the frame.

I break all of the lug nuts loose while the truck is on the ground with the stock lug wrench and tighten them with a torque wrench.

I bought this to get the wheels onto the lugs. I won't know how it works until I rotate the tires in about 9-10 months or 5,000 miles.
Eisen Aain EA116 Heavy Duty Adjustable Wheel Dolly, Tire Dolly for Shop,Garage https://a.co/d/3sHgRTS
 

HEMIJAKE

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I do mine when I do my oil changes (~5k miles). I jack up the rear axle and put it on stands and remove wheels. Then just jack up one front a arm at a time and change whatever tire goes there. Repeat the other side, and replace what goes on the rear. Torque to spec.
 
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1)Break the lug nuts loose on all four wheels with a breaker bar.
2)Jack up front end at frame/suspension cross brace ahead of the engine then lower front end onto jack stands on each side of the frame towards the front. Tires about 4” off the floor.
3)Jack up the back end at the rear differential and lower onto jack stands on each side of rear frame. Just high enough that tires are off the floor. As you raise the back end the front tires will be closer to the floor thus the reason for at least 4” in step 2.
4)Remove lug nuts and rotate tires. I criss-cross the front to opposite side rear and send each rear straight to the front on same side.
5)Lower truck back to ground with lug nuts already hand tight and then torque to spec. Much easier with tires on ground and not spinning.

I use an air wrench for quickly spinning lug nuts off and on but always do final tightening with a torque wrench. Using a heavy duty floor jack and jack stands goes without saying for safety reasons. Also I like to have the tires just slightly off the floor. The wheels are heavy and this prevents a lot of unnecessary lifting. I basically just roll the wheel up onto my foot to position. Easy peasy. Only wish I had one of those fancy 4 point lifts in my garage. Sure would make everything simpler.
Is that front cross member right in front of the engine and front diff strong enough to be lifted by with a 5.7 hemi there?
 

ArcotRAMathorn

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anyone have pictures of proper jack points under the truck? would be good reference in case someone (me) has to change out tire in an emergency
 

Dewey

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Is that front cross member right in front of the engine and front diff strong enough to be lifted by with a 5.7 hemi there?
Yes. Been lifting every single truck there that I’ve owned for the last 30+ years with zero issues.
 

brandomc

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I had the pleasure (not) of using the OEM jack to change a flat tire. Shame on RAM for including a jack made for a Kia. What a piece of junk.

Any recommendations on a replacement jack that works well with the RAM 1500?
 

HSKR R/T

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I had the pleasure (not) of using the OEM jack to change a flat tire. Shame on RAM for including a jack made for a Kia. What a piece of junk.

Any recommendations on a replacement jack that works well with the RAM 1500?
As long as you use the factory jacking points, the factory jack is "adequate" and is space saving. Tons of other options. Problem is storage locations for any of them.
 

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