Thoughts on capability. Numbers say yes but I am thinking I would need to upgrade to a 3/4 ton to safely tow this trailer. The payload would be cutting it close. I am rated at 1800 for my truck. I am sure ya'll will let me know if more specs are needed
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31 foot travel trailer
- Thread starter Ram12375
- Start date
You may be close to the upper end of the truck's capabilities. Consider weight distributing and/or sway control hitches. If you've always wanted a 3500 duallie and can afford it, this might be a good excuse.
Av1
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I like having plenty of truck for my towing needs. It makes it so much nicer when you're towing out on the road.
That's my experience anyway.
silver billet
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Many will tow that, it's too long and heavy for me based on my experience towing with my truck.
If you're going 45 mins down a flat country road twice a year with it, doable. If you're going 4 hours down the freeway multiple times a year, well that's why they build 3/4 tons.
Lets put it this way, you're very much on the boundary of safe towing. It can go either way based on what you put in it, how much you're putting in your truck, the distance you tow, your experience and comfort level, the traffic you will see, the terrain etc. Just too many variables but I wouldn't do it.
If you're going 45 mins down a flat country road twice a year with it, doable. If you're going 4 hours down the freeway multiple times a year, well that's why they build 3/4 tons.
Lets put it this way, you're very much on the boundary of safe towing. It can go either way based on what you put in it, how much you're putting in your truck, the distance you tow, your experience and comfort level, the traffic you will see, the terrain etc. Just too many variables but I wouldn't do it.
22Silver
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Hi, may be getting close to max or over if that’s the tongue weight dry (820lbs) could climb 200lbs when loaded. Like others replied need WDH hitch and limit any cargo in truck, put cargo in trailer and load evenly.
I have a new Roo 233s that has a tongue weight of 650 and I know I’m getting into the 800 plus range when loaded. My 22 1500 is 1700 payload, down to maybe 1600 with added accessories. Leaves me +\-300 to spare with just family loaded in truck only.
Payload is always the weakest of a 1500 I find, just got to do the math and also towing types, long/short distances. Hope this helps.
Thanks for replies. I am thinking I need to stick with my current travel trailer until I upgrade to a 2500. Only problem is I commute 100 miles a day for work so I'll have to wait till I retire in a couple of years. I always use a weight distribution hitch. I think it would be suicide mission without one even on my current 4k lb travel trailer
So trailer max GVWR (dry + Cargo) is around 9,600 lbs; I use that figure.
Minimum 10% of that on the toungue, so 960 lbs. Plus say 100 lbs for a WD Hitch, you are at 1,060 before any people, cargo, or twinkies. If you really have 1,800 lbs payload you might be ok with the numbers, as you'd have ~700 lbs left.
I'd do it with E range tires, upgraded shocks in the rear at least, maybe air bags. Better if you have the long bed. Most important is a good WDH given the length.
Minimum 10% of that on the toungue, so 960 lbs. Plus say 100 lbs for a WD Hitch, you are at 1,060 before any people, cargo, or twinkies. If you really have 1,800 lbs payload you might be ok with the numbers, as you'd have ~700 lbs left.
I'd do it with E range tires, upgraded shocks in the rear at least, maybe air bags. Better if you have the long bed. Most important is a good WDH given the length.
Davidbt
Well-Known Member
I personally wouldn't want to pull anything over 28' with our 5'7" bed trucks. Plus the fact that the gvw of that trailer is almost 9,300 lbs. I pull a 26' bumper to tung with a gvw of 5,500 lbs. and it's very comfortable for me. My truck has a 1780 lb payload and I'm running Air lyft 1000 bags to help level it with a weight distribution hitch. Good luck with your decision.
Trooper4
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Like you said, the numbers all work. Question is , how much experience in towing do you have, and how comfortable are you towing that weight with the experience you have. I have towed many miles with a bumper pull, and it can be really tiering depending on environmental conditions. Setup and situational awareness are paramount. If in doubt, stay with what you are comfortable with.
Seadoorxpguy
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Alot of the 2500s I've seen have very similar payload capacity numbers to the 1500s. Just very the numbers before you pull the trigger on a bigger truck
I tow a 30' 7,500lbs bumper pull travel trailer with my '23 1500 all the time, no problem. I use a weight distrubution/anti-sway hitch and a brake controller and can pull it at 75mph all day with the 5.7L. I typically tow at 70mph though and it will pull big Texas hill country hills with little drama. I have never felt like it wasn't enough truck and I have the 3.21 gears.
To contrast, I towed the same trailer with a '20 Power Wagon and it did not seem to do as good of a job as my 1500. Weird because it was a HD technically, but it sure feels like this e-torque 5.7L has more towing guts and is more stable at speed.
Darksteel165
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As far as I know there is 0 benefit of a 5.7 eTorque vs a 6.4 for towing except a higher drag at lower speeds.
TampaLaramie
Active Member
I just traded in a 38’ total length TT for a 31’ that was 2 years newer.
Old camper:
Weight
Dry Weight
6,752 lbs.
Payload Capacity
2,898 lbs.
GVWR
9,650 lbs.
Hitch Weight
850 lbs.
2018 CrossRoads Sunset Trail Super Lite SS336BH specs and literature guide
It accelerated and stopped just fine. Sway got out of control on interstates driving above 65. Not recommended for long hauls, semi’s push it all over the place. Stability control kicked in when I was intentionally pushing it to see the limit at 70-75. It was good for local pulls within 100-200 miles from home.
New camper:
Weight
Dry Weight
5,854 lbs.
Payload Capacity
1,828 lbs.
Hitch Weight
682 lbs.
The smaller one is much more manageable and pulls a lot better. More controlled and doesn’t sway. Weight distribution hitches on both. Id love to upgrade to a 3/4 or 1 ton truck but I can’t bring myself to get rid of a truck that gets 30mpg on its own. I’m impressed I can get 20mpg with the new camper at 60mpg. Hope this helps
Old camper:
Weight
Dry Weight
6,752 lbs.
Payload Capacity
2,898 lbs.
GVWR
9,650 lbs.
Hitch Weight
850 lbs.
2018 CrossRoads Sunset Trail Super Lite SS336BH specs and literature guide
It accelerated and stopped just fine. Sway got out of control on interstates driving above 65. Not recommended for long hauls, semi’s push it all over the place. Stability control kicked in when I was intentionally pushing it to see the limit at 70-75. It was good for local pulls within 100-200 miles from home.
New camper:
Weight
Dry Weight
5,854 lbs.
Payload Capacity
1,828 lbs.
Hitch Weight
682 lbs.
The smaller one is much more manageable and pulls a lot better. More controlled and doesn’t sway. Weight distribution hitches on both. Id love to upgrade to a 3/4 or 1 ton truck but I can’t bring myself to get rid of a truck that gets 30mpg on its own. I’m impressed I can get 20mpg with the new camper at 60mpg. Hope this helps
Last edited:
TampaLaramie
Active Member
I also question how towing and payload ratings are made up. I haven't seemed to find a solid answer on how any testing is done.
Cbty2050
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A Power Wagon is the least HD truck built. The payload and tow rating is terrible.
silver billet
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The derating on the PW is all because of the soft flexible suspension. Everything else in the truck is still the same as the other HD's, but the PW is meant to flex and walk over rocks, you can't have both worlds (serious offroad + serious towing) in a truck, you need to pick one to be really good at or be mediocre at both. The PW is all about offroad.
Cbty2050
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For sure, saw one that had a 1218lb payload.
Ramroo
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Agreed.
Can only get 4.10 rear axle , 6.4L gas engine and short box in PW also.
3500 can get standard or HO Cummins, different transmissions, 3.73 or 4.10 axle, short or long box. And of course DRW.
The big things off the top off my head.
Definitely PW, or any 2500 IMO is not the best for hauling and towing heavy.
WXman
Ram Guru
Here you go.
SAE J2807 Tow Tests - The Standard
Maximum trailer tow ratings have been a bit of a mystery over the years. Manufacturers each had their own somewhat secret ways of determining how much weight th
All modern trucks are tested with the same set of rules, hence they all can and will tow what they are rated to tow safely and securely.
I would suggest to pay a lot of attention to maximum frontal area specs for these Ram 1500 trucks as well as their midsize cousins. I tow a 8.5x20 enclosed trailer set up for camping and hauling two utility ATVs. I do have the 3.21 axle (which SUCKS) and 35" tires which also doesn't help. But the truck struggles and runs in 4th and 5th gear constantly, with 3rd going up hills. I see around 7 MPG if the weather is good. It's miserable. Handling is perfect because I have the Centerline TS hitch. Braking is perfect because 5th Gen trucks have HUGE brakes, plus the trailer has it's own. It's the going and maintaining 55 MPH that sucks. The Hemi drinks fuel like it's sponsored by OPEC.
