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2500 vs 1500

lkjk

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Looking to get opinions. I have a 2021 pretty fully loaded Laramie with the 5.7 ET. Love the truck, it's my DD, don't really tow but maybe eventually would tow my jeep around, which leads me to the post. I built a 2500 the way I would order it - mostly loaded laramie, megacab, cummins, and it's just shy of 80K and a payload of only ~1850ish. My current payload is ~1350ish.

Am I crazy in thinking that's a huge price jump for not much gain in functionality? My sticker was 64, but I paid 50 before TTL. My understanding is the 2500s have way less wiggle room on price in normal times, so the price difference is really like 20-25K. My initial thought is that its really not worth it, in general, to get a 2500 over a 1500 or 3500. seems like a strange in between that compromises all around.
 

brian42

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Yes the 1500 can (and many do) tow. To stay in the legal limit you need to be prudent with the numbers to make sure all the limits are met, not just payload. With a 1500 that's usually the first one you get to. Not many have a quad cab short bed 2x4 V6 which would net you the largest payload. Once you start adding options your available payload takes a hit then you add in people, pets, gear, etc., there's not a lot of available tongue/pin weight left (if any).

The GVWR and GCWR are where the money's at, both of which are ripe for towing with an HD truck because you have the payload to take advantage of those ratings.

There's also more to it than the numbers. Beefier frame, bigger axles, and more truck weight all make for a better tow rig. I'm coming from a Ford F-250 diesel that weight 7800 lbs "dry" (no driver and full tank of fuel). 4400 lbs of that was on the front axle (diesel engines are h-e-a-v-y). With a 13' wheelbase my truck pretty much tamed any legal load I pulled. It was a hard fight if the tail wanted to wag the dog.

You also have to take into account the profile of the trailer. A U-Haul trailer is not going to put up the fight that an RV travel trailer will. The large side profile makes it more susceptible to weather conditions and passing semis.

I do not have any plans to tow an RV trailer in the foreseeable future so I "dropped down" to a 1500. If I had any intentions of hauling the family around and camping at all then I would have definitely stayed in a 2500.
 

IvoryHemi

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Diesel and Mega Cab hurt your payload on 2500 because there is no increase in GVWR, your stuck at 10,000 lbs.

If you want diesel get a 3500, otherwise gas is the way to go on 2500
 

Richard320

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Short answer: no you are not crazy to think that's a huge price jump for not much gain in functionality.

But you should at least compare apples to apples. Lose the Cummins and shave 10K off the price tag. And do you plan to haul adults around in back? If not, do you really need the megacab? I've looked at those and realized the cab is damn near as long and certainly wider than my old Cherokee! It's like an SUV with an attached cargo trailer!

If you don't absolutely have to have the towing capacity -- and flat-towing a Jeep means very little tongue weight -- why give up the 1500's smooth ride? Why go deeper in debt?
 

ayoslickxd

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im in same boat lol idk if i wanna get a 3500 or keep the 1500 im always loading up **** for work but im happy with my eco diesel good mileage
 

lkjk

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Short answer: no you are not crazy to think that's a huge price jump for not much gain in functionality.

But you should at least compare apples to apples. Lose the Cummins and shave 10K off the price tag. And do you plan to haul adults around in back? If not, do you really need the megacab? I've looked at those and realized the cab is damn near as long and certainly wider than my old Cherokee! It's like an SUV with an attached cargo trailer!

If you don't absolutely have to have the towing capacity -- and flat-towing a Jeep means very little tongue weight -- why give up the 1500's smooth ride? Why go deeper in debt?

Never having towed my jeep, how decent do you think it would do? No idea what mine weighs, but I would think 6K lbs since it's a heavy build. Assuming another 2-3K for a trailer, all in 9Kish lbs?
 

Richard320

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Never having towed my jeep, how decent do you think it would do? No idea what mine weighs, but I would think 6K lbs since it's a heavy build. Assuming another 2-3K for a trailer, all in 9Kish lbs?
Are you talking about trailering the Jeep in a toy hauler or flat-towing it on its own wheels? Flat-towing puts the weight of the towbar on your truck. and the Jeep itself is probably not more than 4000 pounds unless it's some kind of Bigfoot monster truck with a blown big block and 48" tires.
 

lkjk

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Are you talking about trailering the Jeep in a toy hauler or flat-towing it on its own wheels? Flat-towing puts the weight of the towbar on your truck. and the Jeep itself is probably not more than 4000 pounds unless it's some kind of Bigfoot monster truck with a blown big block and 48" tires.
Flat towing it. It's a 2010 JK unlimited, a quick google says curb weight is 4-4400 lbs. So maybe 5K lbs. It's on 38s, full steel armor, trusses front/rear, aftermarket axle/driveshafts, etc. Definitely was not thinking about weight during the build as everything was done one thing at a time
 

Richard320

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Flat towing it. It's a 2010 JK unlimited, a quick google says curb weight is 4-4400 lbs. So maybe 5K lbs. It's on 38s, full steel armor, trusses front/rear, aftermarket axle/driveshafts, etc. Definitely was not thinking about weight during the build as everything was done one thing at a time
5000 pounds towed, but only a hundred or so tongue weight, it seems to me. And the trailer is much lighter, but it will put 500 or so pounds on the hitch. Unless you were planning on pulling doubles, which I'm not sure is legal, the 1500 can handle it. You may end up needing a brake setup for the Jeep. I know these things exist, but I have zero experience with them. https://www.etrailer.com/faq-tow-bar-braking.aspx
 

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