'22 5.7 E-torque, Dreaded Click/No-Start

[FlightLevel350]

Hey guys - sorry for the long read, and I've read through a number of similar posts but still have some questions that I didn't see covered.

As above 22 Ram 1500 with the Hemi ET, <50K miles. A couple of months ago - I got in, pushed the brake - hit the button and got a click and no crank. Cycled it again, click/no crank. Sat there in dismay for a few seconds (still in Run) when it automatically tried again and came to life. Weird I thought, and moved on.

Happened again maybe a week later and I jump started it and it fired right up - started Googling and saw somewhere to go ahead and replace the battery so I did. New Everstart Platinum AGM and bumped up to H8 size, and by the SN it's an East Penn battery to boot so I am happy. Couple weeks later we make a 1500 mile road trip from Ohio to FL in the thing and it's fine until one morning the click happened. Jump pack used, fired right up. Got back to OH ok and its starting to happen more frequently so I got it into the dealer. I am not even sure they did anything "real" or if it even acted up for them, but they are happy to replace the starter for $803 - I called BS on it and left. If it was the starter, jumping it wouldn't fire it right up everytime. When I asked if it could be the 48volt battery that charges the 12 volt, dealer proceeded to tell me there is no 48 volt battery, and the MGU is the only component of the ET system. Wow.

Side note - the 12v readout on my truck has always seemed to hover in the 13-13.2 volt range. Right before a couple of these click instances, I put the truck in run, fired up the guages on the infotainment system (thank god for those 'off-road guages' since you cant see them on the info cluster since it just has the press brake and button message until the truck's running), and battery voltage was 12.3-12.5 before crank, then once started would start climbing up to the high 12's to low 13's.

So now I am trying to figure this out between flying out of town on business trips before I take it to a better dealer who will have hopefully seen/heard of this before.

1. I have read this can be bad ground by the battery - cleaned that up yesterday with a wire brush, hit it with no-corrode spray, snugged back down.
2. Battery was replaced as stated, but I also cleaned the battery cables on the truck yesterday for good measure, hit with the No-Co spray, etc. I intentionally left the ground disconnected 10-15 minutes thinking let everything reset, etc. Can't hurt.
3. After re-connecting everything yesterday - went to start and it almost wanted to click and fail, but did crank over within half a second and was fine. The voltage though jumped clear up to the low 14's and I thought I was golden - that told me the battery should be charging big time.

Did some reading last night - this appears it could also be the ground at the starter, which I haven't messed with yet - could be the intelligent battery sensor (which I've had fail in other Chrysler products and know that thing can cause weirdness) - could be the PPU/48v battery showing a problem, which is why I want a [competent] dealer to diag it again, since that should be under the 8/80K warranty).

I am about to go re-connect the battery and light it up this morning and see what happens, will post a follow-up after a bit.

My question though is what else can I try ruling out as a DIY'er - I do not want to pay the dealer to spend my money chasing the problem. Should I also go back to a lead acid battery? I know the charge curves are diffferent, etc. I am assuming the Ram is smart enough to tell when to apply charge, etc.

Thanks in advance!

Ryan

 

[FlightLevel350]

Alright - so after having the battery disconnected all night - the truck is deader than a door nail. Won't even jump. Now planning to go exchange this brand new battery or at least have them test it and see what it's doing.

 

[FlightLevel350]

And....battery tested good, 850cca rated and produced close to 1100 and only used 2 amp hours to do so.

 

[Eric2022!]

I had a 2022 Bighorn that set for 2 weeks and the battery was dead as the same as yours charge was only 12.3 to 13 volts hated that drove me nuts, replaced the battery with the largest that fit 1000cca. never figured out why is was always low.Traded trucks went back the V6 and its 13.8-14 all the time its a 2025 tradesmen.

 

[RebelliousGt]

Hey guys - sorry for the long read, and I've read through a number of similar posts but still have some questions that I didn't see covered.

As above 22 Ram 1500 with the Hemi ET, <50K miles. A couple of months ago - I got in, pushed the brake - hit the button and got a click and no crank. Cycled it again, click/no crank. Sat there in dismay for a few seconds (still in Run) when it automatically tried again and came to life. Weird I thought, and moved on.

Happened again maybe a week later and I jump started it and it fired right up - started Googling and saw somewhere to go ahead and replace the battery so I did. New Everstart Platinum AGM and bumped up to H8 size, and by the SN it's an East Penn battery to boot so I am happy. Couple weeks later we make a 1500 mile road trip from Ohio to FL in the thing and it's fine until one morning the click happened. Jump pack used, fired right up. Got back to OH ok and its starting to happen more frequently so I got it into the dealer. I am not even sure they did anything "real" or if it even acted up for them, but they are happy to replace the starter for $803 - I called BS on it and left. If it was the starter, jumping it wouldn't fire it right up everytime. When I asked if it could be the 48volt battery that charges the 12 volt, dealer proceeded to tell me there is no 48 volt battery, and the MGU is the only component of the ET system. Wow.

Side note - the 12v readout on my truck has always seemed to hover in the 13-13.2 volt range. Right before a couple of these click instances, I put the truck in run, fired up the guages on the infotainment system (thank god for those 'off-road guages' since you cant see them on the info cluster since it just has the press brake and button message until the truck's running), and battery voltage was 12.3-12.5 before crank, then once started would start climbing up to the high 12's to low 13's.

So now I am trying to figure this out between flying out of town on business trips before I take it to a better dealer who will have hopefully seen/heard of this before.

1. I have read this can be bad ground by the battery - cleaned that up yesterday with a wire brush, hit it with no-corrode spray, snugged back down.
2. Battery was replaced as stated, but I also cleaned the battery cables on the truck yesterday for good measure, hit with the No-Co spray, etc. I intentionally left the ground disconnected 10-15 minutes thinking let everything reset, etc. Can't hurt.
3. After re-connecting everything yesterday - went to start and it almost wanted to click and fail, but did crank over within half a second and was fine. The voltage though jumped clear up to the low 14's and I thought I was golden - that told me the battery should be charging big time.

Did some reading last night - this appears it could also be the ground at the starter, which I haven't messed with yet - could be the intelligent battery sensor (which I've had fail in other Chrysler products and know that thing can cause weirdness) - could be the PPU/48v battery showing a problem, which is why I want a [competent] dealer to diag it again, since that should be under the 8/80K warranty).

I am about to go re-connect the battery and light it up this morning and see what happens, will post a follow-up after a bit.

My question though is what else can I try ruling out as a DIY'er - I do not want to pay the dealer to spend my money chasing the problem. Should I also go back to a lead acid battery? I know the charge curves are diffferent, etc. I am assuming the Ram is smart enough to tell when to apply charge, etc.

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys - sorry for the long read, and I've read through a number of similar posts but still have some questions that I didn't see covered.

As above 22 Ram 1500 with the Hemi ET, <50K miles. A couple of months ago - I got in, pushed the brake - hit the button and got a click and no crank. Cycled it again, click/no crank. Sat there in dismay for a few seconds (still in Run) when it automatically tried again and came to life. Weird I thought, and moved on.

Happened again maybe a week later and I jump started it and it fired right up - started Googling and saw somewhere to go ahead and replace the battery so I did. New Everstart Platinum AGM and bumped up to H8 size, and by the SN it's an East Penn battery to boot so I am happy. Couple weeks later we make a 1500 mile road trip from Ohio to FL in the thing and it's fine until one morning the click happened. Jump pack used, fired right up. Got back to OH ok and its starting to happen more frequently so I got it into the dealer. I am not even sure they did anything "real" or if it even acted up for them, but they are happy to replace the starter for $803 - I called BS on it and left. If it was the starter, jumping it wouldn't fire it right up everytime. When I asked if it could be the 48volt battery that charges the 12 volt, dealer proceeded to tell me there is no 48 volt battery, and the MGU is the only component of the ET system. Wow.

Side note - the 12v readout on my truck has always seemed to hover in the 13-13.2 volt range. Right before a couple of these click instances, I put the truck in run, fired up the guages on the infotainment system (thank god for those 'off-road guages' since you cant see them on the info cluster since it just has the press brake and button message until the truck's running), and battery voltage was 12.3-12.5 before crank, then once started would start climbing up to the high 12's to low 13's.

So now I am trying to figure this out between flying out of town on business trips before I take it to a better dealer who will have hopefully seen/heard of this before.

1. I have read this can be bad ground by the battery - cleaned that up yesterday with a wire brush, hit it with no-corrode spray, snugged back down.
2. Battery was replaced as stated, but I also cleaned the battery cables on the truck yesterday for good measure, hit with the No-Co spray, etc. I intentionally left the ground disconnected 10-15 minutes thinking let everything reset, etc. Can't hurt.
3. After re-connecting everything yesterday - went to start and it almost wanted to click and fail, but did crank over within half a second and was fine. The voltage though jumped clear up to the low 14's and I thought I was golden - that told me the battery should be charging big time.

Did some reading last night - this appears it could also be the ground at the starter, which I haven't messed with yet - could be the intelligent battery sensor (which I've had fail in other Chrysler products and know that thing can cause weirdness) - could be the PPU/48v battery showing a problem, which is why I want a [competent] dealer to diag it again, since that should be under the 8/80K warranty).

I am about to go re-connect the battery and light it up this morning and see what happens, will post a follow-up after a bit.

My question though is what else can I try ruling out as a DIY'er - I do not want to pay the dealer to spend my money chasing the problem. Should I also go back to a lead acid battery? I know the charge curves are diffferent, etc. I am assuming the Ram is smart enough to tell when to apply charge, etc.

Thanks in advance!

Ryan

had the exact same issue this past January on my 22 etourqe and it ended up being the toured nuts on the starter from factory. Apparently they’re not torqued down enough.

 

[RebelliousGt]

Hey guys - sorry for the long read, and I've read through a number of similar posts but still have some questions that I didn't see covered.

As above 22 Ram 1500 with the Hemi ET, <50K miles. A couple of months ago - I got in, pushed the brake - hit the button and got a click and no crank. Cycled it again, click/no crank. Sat there in dismay for a few seconds (still in Run) when it automatically tried again and came to life. Weird I thought, and moved on.

Happened again maybe a week later and I jump started it and it fired right up - started Googling and saw somewhere to go ahead and replace the battery so I did. New Everstart Platinum AGM and bumped up to H8 size, and by the SN it's an East Penn battery to boot so I am happy. Couple weeks later we make a 1500 mile road trip from Ohio to FL in the thing and it's fine until one morning the click happened. Jump pack used, fired right up. Got back to OH ok and its starting to happen more frequently so I got it into the dealer. I am not even sure they did anything "real" or if it even acted up for them, but they are happy to replace the starter for $803 - I called BS on it and left. If it was the starter, jumping it wouldn't fire it right up everytime. When I asked if it could be the 48volt battery that charges the 12 volt, dealer proceeded to tell me there is no 48 volt battery, and the MGU is the only component of the ET system. Wow.

Side note - the 12v readout on my truck has always seemed to hover in the 13-13.2 volt range. Right before a couple of these click instances, I put the truck in run, fired up the guages on the infotainment system (thank god for those 'off-road guages' since you cant see them on the info cluster since it just has the press brake and button message until the truck's running), and battery voltage was 12.3-12.5 before crank, then once started would start climbing up to the high 12's to low 13's.

So now I am trying to figure this out between flying out of town on business trips before I take it to a better dealer who will have hopefully seen/heard of this before.

1. I have read this can be bad ground by the battery - cleaned that up yesterday with a wire brush, hit it with no-corrode spray, snugged back down.
2. Battery was replaced as stated, but I also cleaned the battery cables on the truck yesterday for good measure, hit with the No-Co spray, etc. I intentionally left the ground disconnected 10-15 minutes thinking let everything reset, etc. Can't hurt.
3. After re-connecting everything yesterday - went to start and it almost wanted to click and fail, but did crank over within half a second and was fine. The voltage though jumped clear up to the low 14's and I thought I was golden - that told me the battery should be charging big time.

Did some reading last night - this appears it could also be the ground at the starter, which I haven't messed with yet - could be the intelligent battery sensor (which I've had fail in other Chrysler products and know that thing can cause weirdness) - could be the PPU/48v battery showing a problem, which is why I want a [competent] dealer to diag it again, since that should be under the 8/80K warranty).

I am about to go re-connect the battery and light it up this morning and see what happens, will post a follow-up after a bit.

My question though is what else can I try ruling out as a DIY'er - I do not want to pay the dealer to spend my money chasing the problem. Should I also go back to a lead acid battery? I know the charge curves are diffferent, etc. I am assuming the Ram is smart enough to tell when to apply charge, etc.

Thanks in advance!

Ryan

So absolutely re tourqe your connections at the starter

 

[Ratchet]

See directly above post^

 

[Trooper4]

Does sound like a ground issue. Loose connection. Chasing electrical gremlins and incompetent dealers will cost you both arms and legs.