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2022 First Oil Change

Mr.Grid

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2022 First Oil Change 20211208_145012.jpg 20211208_145012.jpg
I have 1800 miles towing a 7k# trailer and a total 3,000 miles on this Hemi and did my first oil change today. The oil life indicator was at 65%.

I’ve read some of the other oil change threads and have to agree, the oil filter was very obnoxious to remove first time….. Especially when compared to my 4th Gen Hemi Ram. The oil pan drain bolt was only snug and required a small effort to loosen initially.

I did purchase a 14 Flute 74 mm cup to remove the filter, but it fits very poorly, actually loose. When I tried a 73 mm at the store it was too small and wouldn’t fit. It would seem that a 73.5 mm might be the correct size, but I have not seen one in this size.

I have several of these collapsing jaw oil filter removal tools with large hex nut on end that work great. Slide right onto the filter and used a short adjustable to turn nut. The filter took a solid 1.5 turns to loosen to where the tool was not needed.

I used the same method today that I’ve used for many years when removing oil filters in tight areas that are above steering and other components. This is a simple plastic cup that I trimmed a side opening on to get under the filter. I spin the filter and let it drain initially into the cup, and then spin it all the way off, letting it drop into the cup. The cup catches the majority of the oil that follows the filter removal. I removed the cup with filter from the back side, going between the front axle and rack and pinion steering.

I purchased a case of the factory MO-339 Mopar oil filters and 6qt Havoline 0w20 containers that meet the Mopar MS-6395 oil specification.

Going forward, my plan is to change oil and filter at 5,000 miles because many of the miles will be towing between changes.
 

silver billet

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If you're towing heavy like you are, I'd seriously consider stepping up to 5w-30. These hemis run very hot when working them, and many report temps north of 250. Note that it may void your engine warranty if something goes wrong and they find out, but in terms of actual protection for your engine, a high quality full synthetic 30 weight is your best bet.
 

The_Dude

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If you're towing heavy like you are, I'd seriously consider stepping up to 5w-30. These hemis run very hot when working them, and many report temps north of 250. Note that it may void your engine warranty if something goes wrong and they find out, but in terms of actual protection for your engine, a high quality full synthetic 30 weight is your best bet.
I would wager that as long as you're using a synthetic 0W-20 you're better off using the correct weight. Since these engines have oiling problems at low RPMs, the thinner weight I would wager helps the volume.
 

Mr.Grid

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If you're towing heavy like you are, I'd seriously consider stepping up to 5w-30. These hemis run very hot when working them, and many report temps north of 250. Note that it may void your engine warranty if something goes wrong and they find out, but in terms of actual protection for your engine, a high quality full synthetic 30 weight is your best bet.
The factory has spent countless hours running these new engines to extremes on dynos and real world. I’m confident Chrysler knows exactly what is best and are using it. I’m following their service specifications for this truck and documenting it. I purchased a Factory Mopar 7/100 Maximum Care extended warranty and am replacing this truck at warranty end. Anything fails it’s their problem not mine.

The 2011 Ram Hemi (392 HP) that I had prior went 10+ yrs , 179k miles, towing 7k# 84K miles, and I used 5w20 Semi Synthetic oil that is only 30% synthetic at best, and I changed every 3,000 miles. The MDS system failed in that engine.

I use 89 octane when not towing and always 91/93 octane when towing as there is a definite difference in towing power with 7k# at grades.
 

silver billet

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Since these engines have oiling problems at low RPMs

There is no proof that idling causes lifter failures; just rampant speculation on youtube and forums. In fact, the only piece of scientific evidence I've seen WRT to lifter/cam failure is from a metallurigist who examined the cam and said (paraphrasing); there was no lack of oil present, just a lack of lubriscosity. In other words, the oil was there (not starved), it was just not effective.

If it was something as repeatable as idling, then every engine that idled would have a failure rate roughly at the same time. But they don't. Some engines fail at 100 idle hours, and some have gone 1200+ idle hours with no failures. We also see that it's only 1 or 2 individual lifters in an engine, and the others when examined are perfectly normal. The lifters that fail, are different in every engine. All that indicates something else is going on, such as dirty oil siezing up the needle bearings at random, and/or a defect in the lifter itself.

We also know that FCA addressed this issue by redesigning the lifters somewhat, they changed the needle bearings which indicates that dirty oil might be causing needle bearing failures.

We have the exact same issue (lifter failure) occuring in GM 5.3 and 6.2 engines right now (check the GM truck forums), and they have a similar needle bearing lifter setup, but different cam/heads.

Finally: the 5.7 was used in the 2500 for years. Want to know what oil was recommended in those engines for heavy duty usage? 5w-30.

Anyway I've argued this way too much already, you guys do what you want, I just thought I'd leave my pair of pennies.
 

Scram1500

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2022 First Oil Change View attachment 113353 View attachment 113353
I have 1800 miles towing a 7k# trailer and a total 3,000 miles on this Hemi and did my first oil change today. The oil life indicator was at 65%.

I’ve read some of the other oil change threads and have to agree, the oil filter was very obnoxious to remove first time….. Especially when compared to my 4th Gen Hemi Ram. The oil pan drain bolt was only snug and required a small effort to loosen initially.

I did purchase a 14 Flute 74 mm cup to remove the filter, but it fits very poorly, actually loose. When I tried a 73 mm at the store it was too small and wouldn’t fit. It would seem that a 73.5 mm might be the correct size, but I have not seen one in this size.

I have several of these collapsing jaw oil filter removal tools with large hex nut on end that work great. Slide right onto the filter and used a short adjustable to turn nut. The filter took a solid 1.5 turns to loosen to where the tool was not needed.

I used the same method today that I’ve used for many years when removing oil filters in tight areas that are above steering and other components. This is a simple plastic cup that I trimmed a side opening on to get under the filter. I spin the filter and let it drain initially into the cup, and then spin it all the way off, letting it drop into the cup. The cup catches the majority of the oil that follows the filter removal. I removed the cup with filter from the back side, going between the front axle and rack and pinion steering.

I purchased a case of the factory MO-339 Mopar oil filters and 6qt Havoline 0w20 containers that meet the Mopar MS-6395 oil specification.

Going forward, my plan is to change oil and filter at 5,000 miles because many of the miles will be towing between changes.
Curious about the 2022 manual, does it state 5w-20 as an alternative?
 

GKIII

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I purchased a case of the factory MO-339 Mopar oil filters and 6qt Havoline 0w20 containers that meet the Mopar MS-6395 oil specification.
I fall into the camp of using the spec'd oil weight and doing more frequent changes if you tow a lot.

Also, pretty sure the oil capacity is 7qt...unless they changed it for the '22 model year for some reason.
 

Mr.Grid

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No, they only state 0w-20. Makes me wonder if they are going to apply that to previous model years as well.
That picture I posted is from the 2022 Owners Manual “PDF” file that you can download online. The actual printed manual that comes with the truck is Pages 385 – 386 that state the exact same information.
 

Mr.Grid

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I fall into the camp of using the spec'd oil weight and doing more frequent changes if you tow a lot.

Also, pretty sure the oil capacity is 7qt...unless they changed it for the '22 model year for some reason.
Agreed on the oil change frequency for towing.

2022 Hemi is same 7qts with filter. The 0w20 Havoline I purchased comes in 6 quart containers from Walmart that is a great deal online for $19.95.
 

GKIII

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That picture I posted is from the 2022 Owners Manual “PDF” file that you can download online. The actual printed manual that comes with the truck is Pages 385 – 386 that state the exact same information.
Yea I know...

I was more wondering if they will retroactively spec 0w-20 to the 2021 and earlier 5.7 trucks. Those were spec'd for 5w-20. Yes, I know it would work fine, just more curious than anything.


Agreed on the oil change frequency for towing.

2022 Hemi is same 7qts with filter. The 0w20 Havoline I purchased comes in 6 quart containers from Walmart that is a great deal online for $19.95.
Ah, for some reason I read that as you only putting in 6 qt LOL
 

Buz

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No, they only state 0w-20. Makes me wonder if they are going to apply that to previous model years as well.
Yes, I am curious as well.
Perhaps they altered something in the engine in the 2022 models that prefers the 0 weight oil over the 5 weight?

Or perhaps it was just an attempt to squeak out another .001 MPG savings for CAFE?
Engines are least efficient when cold(and still warming up), which is when the 0 weight vs. 5 weight would make a miniscule difference in MPG.
Also the 0 weight oil might allow MDS to kick on easier in a 'cold' engine.
 

GKIII

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Yes, I am curious as well.
Perhaps they altered something in the engine in the 2022 models that prefers the 0 weight oil over the 5 weight?

Or perhaps it was just an attempt to squeak out another .001 MPG savings for CAFE?
Engines are least efficient when cold(and still warming up), which is when the 0 weight vs. 5 weight would make a miniscule difference in MPG.
Also the 0 weight oil might allow MDS to kick on easier in a 'cold' engine.
I actually think it's just to simplify the fluids catalog and use the same oil for their most common engines. The Pentastar (and their 4 cylinder engines in the small Jeep crossovers if I'm not mistaken) has been using 0w-20 for years, and there's no reason all the '21 and older 5.7's can't use it.
 

HoosierTrooper

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Yes, I am curious as well.
Perhaps they altered something in the engine in the 2022 models that prefers the 0 weight oil over the 5 weight?

Or perhaps it was just an attempt to squeak out another .001 MPG savings for CAFE?
Engines are least efficient when cold(and still warming up), which is when the 0 weight vs. 5 weight would make a miniscule difference in MPG.
Also the 0 weight oil might allow MDS to kick on easier in a 'cold' engine.
There is no such thing as 0 “weight” oil. The “W” stands for winter and the SAE classifies oil by grade, not weight, such as 20 grade, 30 grade etc. The first number is the winter rating.
 
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ram813ltd

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yes use correct manufacturer oil
get your money back on extended warranty...useless
higher octane is a waste of money other than what fca recommends...89
 

mikeru82

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yes use correct manufacturer oil
get your money back on extended warranty...useless
higher octane is a waste of money other than what fca recommends...89
I agree with you about #1 and #3, but don't fully agree about #2. Extended warranties can be very useful. The issue many people run into though is they are under the impression that it's just an extension of the bumper to bumper original factory warranty. Which they are not. Then are upset when trying to get something fixed that isn't covered by the extended warranty. Extended warranties have very specific language in the contract about what is and isn't covered. Anyone considering purchasing one should read through the contract carefully, and go into it fully aware of what isn't covered by it.
 

Dewey

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What Mopar oil filter are you guys using for the 2022 Hemi eTorque?

Don’t have my owners manual handy but looking online I’m seeing multiple numbers.🤔
 

WXman

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Interesting how guys still assume that auto manufacturers want your engine to last forever. If only it worked that way....

In reality they want to make it to end of warranty, and they want to save as much $$$ as they can on EPA CAFE scores. So, they spec these watery 0W20 oils that meet those goals. Meanwhile, the consumer doesn't give a rip about saving 0.004 MPG on an EPA test loop. What we want is a longer lasting and healthier engine and so 5W30 would be better suited.

"But the engineers tested the spec'd oil!" Yes, yes they did...they tested it to make sure it met the financial needs of the auto maker, not the financial needs of the person who still has the truck beyond warranty.
 

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