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18 or 0 offset new wheels

Drew87

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Hey guys. I have searched and searched but having a hard time getting a full idea of what is better. I am looking to get some 20x9 brink wheels with 275/60/20 MICHELIN Defender Tires. Stock limited suspension and will stay stock. should I go with 18 or 0 offset. Mostly highway driving. Pictures would be amazing. Thanks!
 
275/60/20, 20x9, +1 offset, stock suspension. Takes the tires out almost flush with the fenderwell trim. Hope that helps you visualize a bit.
View attachment 173536
That looks great. Has it changed the driving dynamics at all? Rougher or louder ride? Sorry for the noob questions. Love the wheels by the way.
 
Thanks, and the ride is different that then stock 22s, less harsh. I have the Cooper AT3 4s, I guess there might be a slight road noise - between the exhaust and the radio, I never notice it on a normal drive.
 
Thanks, and the ride is different that then stock 22s, less harsh. I have the Cooper AT3 4s, I guess there might be a slight road noise - between the exhaust and the radio, I never notice it on a normal drive.
You don't get any extra harshness, tram lining, hard turning radius? I switched to 275/60/20 +1 Fuel Rebels and have been trying to figure out why my truck drives like garbage.
 
You don't get any extra harshness, tram lining, hard turning radius? I switched to 275/60/20 +1 Fuel Rebels and have been trying to figure out why my truck drives like garbage.
What did you end with for tire psi?
I'd try 38psi and see what you think, err towards low side don't go crazy high. Just a thought from what I notice on my heavy Larry!
 
You don't get any extra harshness, tram lining, hard turning radius? I switched to 275/60/20 +1 Fuel Rebels and have been trying to figure out why my truck drives like garbage.
No harshness at all, or I would dump them. I'm running mine at 36 psi, it has given me the best balance between ride and responsiveness. It looks like you've done a little stiffening to your suspension, what pressure are you at?
 
No harshness at all, or I would dump them. I'm running mine at 36 psi, it has given me the best balance between ride and responsiveness. It looks like you've done a little stiffening to your suspension, what pressure are you at?
I’m running 36. I tried 34-38 and settled on this. It’s not even necessarily the ride. It doesn’t feel planted. When slowing down if one side hits a bump it almost shimmy’s to the other side. It’s hard to explain.

I have a 4x4 truck shop looking at it Friday. Maybe I need a better alignment. I dunno.

I got the shocks thinking it would help with the heavier wheels and tires. I still don’t regret it the bilstein are awesome.
 
I’m running 36. I tried 34-38 and settled on this. It’s not even necessarily the ride. It doesn’t feel planted. When slowing down if one side hits a bump it almost shimmy’s to the other side. It’s hard to explain.

I have a 4x4 truck shop looking at it Friday. Maybe I need a better alignment. I dunno.

I got the shocks thinking it would help with the heavier wheels and tires. I still don’t regret it the bilstein are awesome.
Hopefully they can figure it out for you. If it was me, I would try disconnecting the front and rear sway bars, one at a time, and drive it over bumps to see how the truck responded. That at least might shine a little light on the offending area.
 
I’m running 36. I tried 34-38 and settled on this. It’s not even necessarily the ride. It doesn’t feel planted. When slowing down if one side hits a bump it almost shimmy’s to the other side. It’s hard to explain.

I have a 4x4 truck shop looking at it Friday. Maybe I need a better alignment. I dunno.

I got the shocks thinking it would help with the heavier wheels and tires. I still don’t regret it the bilstein are awesome.
Some thing else that just occurred to me. You might try checking all of your cab mount bolts. I know there have been stories of incorrectly torqued bolts in the past, and on my previous Ram There was at least one that wasn’t torqued to specs. Easy thing to check that doesn’t cost anything.
 
Some thing else that just occurred to me. You might try checking all of your cab mount bolts. I know there have been stories of incorrectly torqued bolts in the past, and on my previous Ram There was at least one that wasn’t torqued to specs. Easy thing to check that doesn’t cost anything.
This makes a lot of sense! I’m not sure which bolts they are though lol
 
Hopefully they can figure it out for you. If it was me, I would try disconnecting the front and rear sway bars, one at a time, and drive it over bumps to see how the truck responded. That at least might shine a little light on the offending area.
They have a good reputation so I’m confident they will. Or maybe this is just normal?

It’s like a rocking motion almost on certain roads at lower speeds. The cab bolts make sense actually. Do you have info somewhere on which bolts and the torque specs by any chance?
 
This makes a lot of sense! I’m not sure which bolts they are though lol
I think if you search this forum, someone has a listing of the bolts and the torque specs. If I recall, there’s like six or eight bolts total.
 
I personally would go with 0 offset if I was buying new wheels. I think it’s a great stance as it has just a tick of poke, but not too much. Instead of new wheels, I went with 3/4” spacers which is 19mm. Since my stock NE 20’s are 18mm, I achieved the same stance as a 0 offset wheel. I don’t have factory fender flares. Maybe these pics will help. IMG_0164.jpegIMG_9535.jpegIMG_0003.jpeg
 
I personally would go with 0 offset if I was buying new wheels. I think it’s a great stance as it has just a tick of poke, but not too much. Instead of new wheels, I went with 3/4” spacers which is 19mm. Since my stock NE 20’s are 18mm, I achieved the same stance as a 0 offset wheel. I don’t have factory fender flares. Maybe these pics will help. View attachment 176390View attachment 176391View attachment 176392
Yeah that’s about the same as my 20x9 +1’s. Did you notice any difference in ride quality with heavier wheels like I do?
 
Yeah that’s about the same as my 20x9 +1’s. Did you notice any difference in ride quality with heavier wheels like I do?
Not all that much. The 3.92’s don’t have an issue moving the bigger tires. Yokohama G015’s are on the lighter side of 35’s in terms of weight, which is one reason I went with them. They are LT’s so they ride a bit stiffer but I prefer that. As far as wheels go, when I installed the spacers first with my old stockers (275/55r20 Bridgestones), I noticed zero difference in ride quality. Simply moving the tire 3/4” wider shouldn’t impact ride quality. Tires, suspension components, PSI, etc effect the ride much more. I did install RC 2” struts which stiffen the front end. I have Hellwig rear sway bar on stiffest setting in the rear and it planted my truck much more firmly, especially when cornering. I don’t have any shimmying or the boaty floaty feeling that you describe in earlier posts.
 
For a 9" wheel, Method's +12mm offset is as perfect as you can get for fat tires, if you don't want that "poke" that many brodozers are running. It fills the fender wells as much as you can before adding poke if that makes since.

I am running equal to a 35x13.5R18 and the inside of the tire is slightly less than 1/4" from the UCA and zero rubbing on anything that matters. A +18 will bring the wheel in another 0.24" which should be fine for 275's. because that is 2" more narrow than mine. So, 1" less inside projection. If I have 0.25" clearance with 325's and +12, you should have about 0.75" with 275's and +18. 0mm will push the tire out about 3/4", resulting in more "poke".

The first pic shows the "poke" with 13.5 wide tires..just barely outside the fender well.

ram10.jpg

ram06.jpg
 
Not all that much. The 3.92’s don’t have an issue moving the bigger tires. Yokohama G015’s are on the lighter side of 35’s in terms of weight, which is one reason I went with them. They are LT’s so they ride a bit stiffer but I prefer that. As far as wheels go, when I installed the spacers first with my old stockers (275/55r20 Bridgestones), I noticed zero difference in ride quality. Simply moving the tire 3/4” wider shouldn’t impact ride quality. Tires, suspension components, PSI, etc effect the ride much more. I did install RC 2” struts which stiffen the front end. I have Hellwig rear sway bar on stiffest setting in the rear and it planted my truck much more firmly, especially when cornering. I don’t have any shimmying or the boaty floaty feeling that you describe in earlier posts.
Thanks. I'll put my hellwig on the tightest setting, did that plant the front at all too? Taking it to a 4x4 shop tomorrow so they can tell me if it's normal lol

I can't remember what it rode like stock but everyone says RAM's ride so good! That's why I'm so confused.
 
For a 9" wheel, Method's +12mm offset is as perfect as you can get for fat tires, if you don't want that "poke" that many brodozers are running. It fills the fender wells as much as you can before adding poke if that makes since.

I am running equal to a 35x13.5R18 and the inside of the tire is slightly less than 1/4" from the UCA and zero rubbing on anything that matters. A +18 will bring the wheel in another 0.24" which should be fine for 275's. because that is 2" more narrow than mine. So, 1" less inside projection. If I have 0.25" clearance with 325's and +12, you should have about 0.75" with 275's and +18. 0mm will push the tire out about 3/4", resulting in more "poke".

The first pic shows the "poke" with 13.5 wide tires..just barely outside the fender well.

View attachment 176395

View attachment 176396
Those wheels are sharp!
 
Thanks. I'll put my hellwig on the tightest setting, did that plant the front at all too? Taking it to a 4x4 shop tomorrow so they can tell me if it's normal lol

I can't remember what it rode like stock but everyone says RAM's ride so good! That's why I'm so confused.
The front is firmer because of the upgraded coil strut lift I installed. And the LT tires are stiffer for less roll in front turning.
 

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