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Not surprised, these things pull a lot of amps, won`t take long to drain the battery.
Like the others commented, codes should clear after couple drive cycles.
The shop manual advises to use a keep-alive power supply in the case of a prolonged key on engine off situation.
Might want to shop around.
It is a big job, the whole dash has to come out before the heater box can be pulled and placed on the bench.
Book calls for 8 hours and that "Does Not Include: Refrigerant Recovery Or Evacuate & Recharge AC System."
Alldatadiy.
Advanced DIY Automotive Repair | ALLDATA DIY
You can get a one month subscription for not much money. I renew every year, on my 5th.
They also have a 3 year plan.
Something to read thru. There are couple other threads discussing the 3rd brake light and shark fin antenna.
https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/the-dreaded-leaking-and-cracked-rear-window-frame.37469/
You might benefit from subscribing to alldatadiy.
They have detailed description of operation and troubleshooting procedures for everything in your truck.
Advanced DIY Automotive Repair | ALLDATA DIY
I would think that it is just a rubber isolator with no damping fluid in it, not sure about that.
As far as replacing, the body needs to be lifted off the frame enough to clear the isolator.
Body isolator
REMOVAL
Raise and support the vehicle, (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick...
It is most likely a Tyco/AMP connector.
You can possibly get one for substantially less from Newark electronics of from corsa-technic if you can cross it over.
One for my 2019 5.7 is $4.37 (+s&h) from corsa, comes with contact sockets and seals also.
Might be worth doing some digging.
My tire and wheel assembly measured 80 pounds on a scale. According to custom offsets.com the dura-track weighs
56.94 pounds so that would leave a wheel weight of 23 pounds.
edit:
Amazon states 45 pounds, so 35 pounds for the wheel.
I might lean towards amazons weight.
edit2:
Just went down a...
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