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If they are AMP boards, just keep a foot on the board with some downward pressure and it stays down. You will feel a little bump after closing the doors and it stays down. It is apart of their "check for functions" when installing, also a great way to park if you can't find a big enough space...
I don't have BDS to be able to speak on that, but I have the 6in Zone lift. I ditched the preload that it came with recently and put in a set of 5100s in the front instead. The ride is great, was not bad before by any means. Just an option, while not as "good" as a BDS lift, I have had Zone...
I have the Zone and have no issues with it. I had a Zone on another truck before this and had no issues with that one either. The wait time for me was due to backordered knuckles. I can't speak for RC, but from most shops I called, they recommended against RC. I'm sure each company has its...
+1 on what Trooper said. The Ram head is held into place with tape and clips. The others are tape. If you have the rebel, I read that the "RAM" letters are clips as well.
I got my AMP boards off a local sale/trade for 450. The install was done in the drive way and took maybe an hour or so, more time was spent cleaning up the wiring. I know some local shops will install for "free" at the purchase price of 14XX. Hope that helps cost comparison wise.
I have a Zone with upgraded shocks as well on this truck as well as on another truck in the past. No serious off-roading, but does well in the back roads during hunting seasons. The other truck had the lift for 30K miles before selling and currently the Ram has 10K with the lift and no issues...
Its def worth a shot. I had to mount the part going over the stem of the mirror backwards and then adjust the way the bottom pieces stacked together to get the fit i needed.
If you have an existing one, you can always try to adjust the way it fits. I removed the one from my M4 when I traded it and had to take it apart and reassemble it completely different but it fits. Not as flush, but works great without having to replace and rebuy.
I have driven to the next state(2 hr) for a car before a long time ago due to a 3k difference. My RAM was bought instate, but I do go to a dealer 45mins away for all service needs just due to the fact they have a great track record, reviews, and recommendations.
Not from what I've been able to find. There is a guy on here from AZ that is currently making rock sliders, he asked for ideas and I did mention it to him as a side/next project. He said it wouldnt be too hard to make one to fit, but not sure if its on his list. I messaged N-fab and they have...
I removed my OEM exhaust with just a floor jack. I lifted it on the back drivers side to get the complete pipe section weaved through. I think if you took the spare and shield off it would be easier, but it is doable without as well.
I agree with you on that, I was worried how low it would sit and would have just had it custom mounted in the space, but after putting it where the spare is with the kit, only a inch of the bell shows. It wasn't my first choice, but with the 35s and eventual 37s, a spare wouldn't fit...
+1
The 33 gallon tank and the in-floor bins take a lot of room away. I originally wanted to mount on the frame rails and run the line to bells behind the front bumper, but after seeing the space, I just decided to take off the spare tire and use that area.
I haven't heard that either, I have used 4auto here with really rainy days as well as the recent snow-fest that happened and it has worked great. (on a 6in lift w/35s)
I'd pass as well if that was the case. You can always see if the seller is willing to come down on his price. Hard to sell boards without the harness and module as most people don't want to have to piece parts together.
If there isn't a module or wiring harness, you can try to contact the dealer to see if they can provide a part number for the harness and module. Or maybe ask the original seller to see if they have it. I dont have OEM power boards, but I do have the AMP steps and they are able to sell...
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