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I think your problem is the same as mine. I've been meaning to just disconnect my sway bar to see if my clunk goes away, and I also have the body mounts just because.
Electric trucks are fine for light duty or no towing. They're basically EV cars with the ability to put something in the bed for short trips. It's been shown repeatedly that EV trucks can't tow and still expect to get any type of travel distance. Great, it has a 500 mile range, but when you're...
The parts in the link I posted are sitting in a box in my house. Waiting for the weather to get above freezing before I go bust any knuckles under the truck.
If I didn't have an AT tire I would be running Michelin Defenders. Best road tires I've ever had. Whatever version of Michelin M/S tire is needed for my wife's car (she's had a few) are what I always go with as soon as tires need to be replaced.
Had my Rebel since Feb 2020, 67k miles. Haven't had any issues with the sunroof, but I check the drains at least once a year (after winter). I had the rear window frame crack/leak, fixed under warranty earlier this year around 60k miles. I would LOVE to have the Hydro Blue color, especially if...
So you're saying you won't use any gas daily, or at least very little, and get a truck that has more than 60% more HP and 50% more torque, and it's comparable to your Hemi that will probably get 12-14MPG sitting in heavy traffic? Those of you that can average 20MPG with your V8's need to keep it...
First one under the steering wheel there are screws below it in the footwell (you can see them in the pic). Then it should pop out if I remember right. The second one you may have to take the radio stack out, but I only have the 12" radio so I'm not sure.
I use 1 facing to the right (passenger side) when I'm heading to my parents' house in BFE Kentucky. It's better than lighting everything up with my lightbar. I use these for the mounts since they're easy to remove...
For what it's worth, my Rebel has been 2" in the rear including the OEM 1" for over 4 years now on the OEM Bilstein rear shocks. I do have the resi Bilsteins which doesn't affect shock length, but I haven't broken them yet with full droop. They'll support 0-2". Currently sitting at 64k miles...
I looked for them, but couldn't find any. Think I may have tossed them. I'll keep an eye out for them though as my garage is a mess, and they might be hiding.
https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/new-body-mount-parts-no-more-clunk.62306/
I have this one saved for when I get around to ordering new mounts, he explains it a bit.
Like he said, you're on a forum, and you're getting differing information. The only way to ever increase the Manufacturer's listed payload of your current truck is to sell it and buy a truck with a larger payload. Adding springs, airbags, and stiffer tires will only help the truck feel better...
Anything added to the truck takes away payload. Start out with 18x9 +19 wheels and change out to a different set of 18x9 +19 wheels, but they're 5 pounds heavier a piece? That's 20 pounds taken away from your payload. Can the truck do it? Most likely without issue. Is it legal? No. Should you do...
You'll hit payload before max tow weight. Check your door sticker, see what the payload says, do the math. That number on the door sticker is the truck with a full tank of gas and nothing else. You, luggage, an extra trailer hitch, your lift, your airbags, new wheels and tires, everything else...
Right, I wouldn't expect a shop to sell parts at cost. But a shop isn't (or shouldn't be) paying retail price either. $9 a plug comes out to $144, so $740 in labor. $25 a plug is $550 which is absolutely insane, then $300 in labor. Any way you slice it she's getting ripped off.
I bought front and rear diff and transfer case fluid for $150 from AMSOIL. If you're at all mechanically inclined it's a 1 hour DIY job including clean up. Less than 1 hour for a mechanic shop. Brake fluid is cheap and easy to change. So if they charge 2 hours of labor for the fluids you should...
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