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As long as you don't use a knife to get under the adhesive if you need to remove it you should be fine. I've also installed and removed my adhesive dashcam mount multiple times to my tinted windshield. No issues as long as you don't use a knife or Hulk it off and somehow pull the tint.

Yep, after getting in my truck yesterday it made more sense looking at the center console. I kept thinking the radio stack was separate, but the console runs the whole way. Thinking #9 is it. Thanks!

Yeah that's what I was looking at, but it says it's for the back of the center console. Can't find anything for underneath the radio stack. Guess I'll have to pull the radio to see if I can pop it out.

Pretty sure the USB hub under my radio is dead. It works sometimes, will disconnect/reconnect randomly, sometimes it won't work at all. Trying to find the right part number, but having difficulty. 2020 Rebel, 12" screen. Seeing part numbers 68397098AE and 68272254AE look pretty much the same...

Correct. The other two seats have them as well.

End links. I had the same issue, and my end links are so loose I can make them move just by shaking the link around with my hand. Took my sway bar out completely and no clunk.

I've put a pallet of sod in the back of my 1550 payload truck. You're fine as long as it's not regular, and it's not long distance.

I honestly would have just preferred a completely glass roof like a Tesla over the sunroof. I leave the shade open nearly all the time, but I don't open the sunroof that often. FWIW I've had mine tinted for nearing 5 years now, it sits outside nearly 24/7, and it gets full sun in 100+ heat here...

35% ceramic tint. Just did 35% on my wife's Traverse too.

The wire is fine. I'd check power at the pin as it should be hot all the time. If you don't have power there check where you spliced it. If you have power there then it's something wrong with either your splicing or your ground. If no power there you have to start chasing back to the front of...

Can't remember what the color was, but if you're looking at the truck from the bumper, you need the wire running into pin 4 if you want to be able to turn the lights on whenever. You don't need to use the ground wire if you have a bolt connected to a non-painted surface. I have the same kit, no...

Same reason we buy truck tires well over our axle ratings. 6 ply rated at 1820 is 3640 per axle that's rated at 3500. Not much wiggle room if you're loading your trailer heavy.

I run D range on my tandem axle trailer. It has 3500# axles as well.

I prefer the matte black for a more off road look, as I think color matched gives a more higher trim look. If it's between the two you posted and not matte black, I'd say go color matched. I think the Diamond Pearl will look like you took them off another truck and said "Eh, close enough."

Fairly certain there is an AlfaOBD setting for Canadian or not to determine DRL's being an option.

I doubt just sealing it will work if it's cracked. They replaced my whole window middle of last year. Yours cracked in exactly the same spot as mine.

Not sure on that one. If it's just the latch and not the handle or anything that recognizes the key I would assume no.

Check your back window and third brake light. That's where water intrusion happens the most and can cause all kinds of issues. I added an extra gasket to my third brake light and recently just replaced it after a few years.

The corded DeWalt 1/2" has 345 ft-lbs, which is well over spec for the lugs. I rotate my tires every 5k miles on multiple vehicles and have never broken a stud, which means the shop was using much more. Or, like @HSKR R/T said, they used cheap lugs and broke the lugs.

Too much ugga dugga when they installed the wheels sounds like. I use my corded DeWalt 1/2" impact on lugs and have never had an issue, so they must have gone way overboard.