Search results

I swapped all my driveline fluids at 50K (not including the transmission). I tow frequently around 4000-5000lbs + Max payload when I’m on trips. Front axle - Felt bad for changing it it looked so new but I only really used 4x4 on boat ramps with any regularity. Rear Axle - Looked used but...

I have Z36 pads on my truck and they are better than stock especially if you lean on them. Little to no dust. I installed some Napa higher end pads in a pinch and the clips/pad design was garbage. Rattled over bumps like bad sway bar end links. Been great since the Z36 install. Power stop...

Same procedure for the 5.7. I followed it as best I could with plenty of WOT rolling into throttle so it wouldn’t downshift. Now at 80k miles it uses 0 oil on the stick in a 7500 mile interval and oil analysis is glowing. The low gear acceleration is to be avoided while the differential breaks...

Somehow on the 5.7 they made the drain plug coat the exhaust in fluid as well as the fill plug during the refilling and level check procedure. I fixed one of those issues with the PPE pan.

I keep an eye on my diff temps with an IR gun. Like Banks said above I’ve never seen mine get anywhere near an unsafe temperature. Given, I’m not towing anywhere near the max weight say a 3.92 truck could tow. My normal load is 4000-4500 lb trailer with max payload in the truck. Maintaining...

Everyone in that picture looks sad.

I’ve always wanted the automotive 6.4 in the 1500. Only issue is they would have likely only made it available in trim levels that would be 70k +. If it was available in a “reasonably” priced performance/bighorn trim level I’d have marched right down to the dealer and ordered one.

Yeah, I’d define the extra power I’d like differently. I’d want more torque from idle to 3k rpms (normal daily driving and towing range). I’d take the extra MPG too. My 5.7 with 3.21s is plenty fast once it spun up and making power. That said, it’s plenty adequate and enjoyable at lower rpm as...

My truck has a little noise under only light deceleration at 32 and 62 mph. Likely a slight issue with pinion depth/preload. Didn’t start until around 50k and hasn’t got any worse at almost 77k now. The Achilles heal of the ram rear end has always been related to the stupid crush sleeve for...

Wow, seems premature. I tow weekly usually and have the truck loaded near max payload on trips 4-5 times a year. If I ever have issues I’d be interested in upgraded bushings as well.

How many miles did it take to kill those bushings ? I had to replace one of the 4 link bars on my 2010 because the exhaust essentially melted the RH forward lower bushing. Never had issues with the track bar. 140k miles when I traded it. Just ticked over 75k on my 2021.

My truck did same thing. Sounds similar to a sway bar end link when the windows are up. If you barely touch the pedal when going over bumps that create the rattle it’s gone. I had some aftermarket Napa pads on it. Tried a new hardware kit and it stopped for a week or two. Upgraded to the power...

You mean the pinion bearing.

I’d for sure not drain fluid. Leave that stuff in there so the dealer has nothing to argue about since you’re well under powertrain warranty. Not your problem.

Cool thanks. I thought it was made for the truck it fit so well in the hole.

Oh cool. Share a link if you could ?

Did you 3D print that ?

That’s on a 5.7?

Too bad they went cheap and used the standard dueler instead of the Alenza HL +. Those are some of the best tires I’ve ever had. Quiet/70k tread life/great wet and passable snow performance. I had these on my 2wd 2010 and they got through good snow just fine. I think I’ve had 4-5 sets total. To...

I have no first hand experience but my buddy uses his 2wd 2500 suburban as a people shuttle at the dunes. He uses his 4x4 2011 GMC 1500 for getting up the inclines etc.