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Yes that will work, but really why the sandpaper just use a match and enjoy the show.

I don't know how long that might be but to long for me being I live in WI and it's cold as $hit here at the moment and would not want my battery to be even a little more without power. I had the cord in the USB for at least an hour and still had power going through it when truck was off. Most...

I have always used this method on all decals and badges on my past vehicle. Just don't get the paint so hot you burn it, use a sweeping motion to warm it evenly. Also use dental floss or fishing line to get under badges after you warm them up first and use it like a saw to cut through the...

Hair dryer or heat gun and goo gone for left over goo.

Do you leave the USB plugs in all the time even when the truck is off? I have a USB cord that glows blue when it has power at one end and even when the truck is off, locked and left for at least half hour the light is still on in the cord so I guess this is a constant on situation so could be a...

Finally got time to get the stuff in boxes in my garage onto and into new truck. Took a couple pics of day one with truck and now before the snow hit today. More good stuff later on. Day 1 NOW

Is there any rub against your uca with the 285'S, I have 275's and it insanely close to the uca, about a pinky finger width (a small pinky finger)

I just sprayed some rubberized coating under mine mostly to keep out more noise but I would guess it does the same thing as a fluid film just not as well. $7 a can I used two

Lol. Try explaining the Chalk test. Lol. That will blow their minds

Yea kind of, I was thinking the whole round cap area though. Kind of just like a lid on top of it so water and other things can't just sit on top of it. Think like a smaller cottage cheese lid.

Has anybody come up with a solution to cap the top of the UCA grease zerk. I live in a snow and salt area and am not wanting salt and other things to be getting into that area. Does anybody have a 3d printer and want to fab one up, I'm sure there would be buyers for these caps.

37's? What kind of lift is that going to be?

What part of the spring is it hitting and why. I thought with this kit there is supposed to be no problems, hence, it's a kit not separate items all bought separately.

Yeah, I'm thinking that's why it was sitting weird in there, from the bolt hitting the top and not going flush against it. Not looking forward to cutting the stock bolts on a brand new truck.

Did you or anyone else have to put the right side shock on the left side and the same with the left to the right to make them fit back in after the Spacer was put on top? It doesn't line up otherwise it looks like

Is the clunking noise from the factory screws rubbing through shock spacers on the front. Mine stick past Spacer and not flush with top of Spacer. Also seems like I have to switch sides for the shock to fit back in. Right to left side, and left to right side otherwise it doesn't look like...

So I just noticed this when installing the readylift strut extension. The factory bolts stick up past the spacer plate. Anyone else see this with these.

Thanks guys, I finally got it done thanks to you. Had to make a trip to harbor freight and pick this up, even then it still took some good smacks to pop it loose. I guess someone must have been over torquey at the factory. Now hopefully the rest goes smoother

Mine only has 500 miles on it, lol. What also had me unsure was a one if the instructions for the bds uca's but same method of install except this: Remove the upper control arm from the vehicle. Do not hit the aluminum steering knuckle with a hammer to dislodge the upper ball joint taper...

Giving that another try this morning, will a little more umph this time. Was to afraid of busting it before