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I got what I have a long time ago when somebody uploaded some files to google docs. I think this is where you can order it. Mopar Select Vehicle | Official Mopar® Site

Sounds like a bad thermostat. Once the engine warms up, it shouldn't dip below 195 (or maybe 203, not sure on V6) regardless of AC and/or cooling fan. I'd say it isn't closing completely when it should and allowing too much water to get past. With the fan blasting, the radiator gets really cool...

This happens to me sometimes. Usually, just pushing in unbinds whatever. Friday that didn't help. I ended up pushing in, locking everything, pushing in some more, unlocking, and then trying the handle and it opened.

There's not really any difference in the front suspension between the two. It's not like the old days where the 2WD had A-arms and coil springs and the 4X4 had a straight axle and leaf springs. The ride's gonna be pretty much the same. I'm not really one to go offroading where four wheel drive...

I used to shoot a staple out of a stapler and straighten one leg to clean out washer nozzles when I was wrenching for a living.

The numbers don't look worrisome, though the transmission is a little warmer than I usually see.

Post some numbers

Only if you tap into the brake wire.

10 minutes idling every day, especially in extreme cold weather when it will be running extra rich on startup, will kill your fuel economy. In city driving, 10 minutes will get you five miles distance or more. Add 5 to your reading. I live where it never freezes and if all I have been doing...

Is anybody in SoCal planning to go to this? https://www.overlandexpo.com/socal/

Because when you start advancing and retarding cam timing and disabling cylinders, the vacuum supply can get sketchy

Unless something has changed, the 12V power port aka lighter socket can be switched to be either B+ or Run. So you could move the fuse to the side you don't want and plug a spade terminal with a fused wire into the empty slot and run it to your camera from there. Or put the fuse to the feed...

You need an AT&T account

Time to roll underneath and look for damage to a wiring harness. My sister ran over something once and whatever it was flipped up under the engine and severed the crank position sensor wires. It doesn't take much.

It's better to connect to a fuse block stud and an engine ground. That way the cables are away from where you're working and you're less likely to brush them off accidentally.

This^ I used a set of jumper cables connected to one of the B+studs in the fuse box and the engine block to keep the memory alive. But a caution: your battery cable ends will be live, so do not accidentally touch the positive to ground. As far as the truck was concerned, it never lost power...

Leave 4 bolts near the corners when you remove the rest. Then loosen them a little bit. Maybe the pan will let go, maybe you need to tap it. But fluid will come out in a thin stream. Then you loosen one end and eventually one corner more and the huge majority of the fluid will drain out. Then...

If "stuff to haul" will require a trailer, get the Cummins. There are too many threads in the towing forum where by the time you load up the family, you've hit the GVW and there is nothing left for the trailer. When they call a 1500 a half-ton, they aren't kidding.

You are suffering from low current draw. Was the donor vehicle LED equipped? If not, I suspect you might be able to tell the BCM it is using alfaobd and then it should straighten out. If it was LED equipped, I have zero guesses.