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Yeah that's typical. All the oil has drained down into the pan. You will get a bit of noise till the oil pump gets oil up into everything. Especially on cold days when the oil is thick as hell. This is where synthetic oil really shines. It gets up there and lubes much faster when cold...
If everthing is the same except length then go for it. I used to do that with some Motorcycles I used to have. Found a cross reference for a longer car filter that was compatible.
0w20 is fine. But I personally would save that for cold weather and run 5w20 in warmer. Generally you want the narrowest weight range of oil for the conditions encountered. The reason, the greater the range say 0 weight to 30 weight requires more complex molecules that wind and unwind...
True Hemi tick is from the roller on the lifter locking up. You don't get the "tick" until it's ground the cam down to where the sides of the lifter and hitting the cam lobe. By then you're F*&^%. This is different then just plain old noisy lifters. Which Hemi's seem to be known for.
Long tube headers often move the stock O2 sensor location farther away downstream. IDK about Mopar but many ECM's don't like that one bit.
My suggestion would be to stick with shorty headers if you don't want to open that can of worms.
Disclaimer: Below is based on experience with a GM vehicle...
I tuned my 07 Vette myself. On a mostly stock engine the only thing a tune will really do it lower the stock commanded AFR at wide open throttle. It's overly rich for safety. They may also bump timing up but that requires higher...
Any drone while at highway speeds? I haven't done a cat back on my Ram yet. But when I was looking for an exhaust for my Vette a few years ago I went with Corsa Sports because they were known for not having any drone. I had a Borla system on a 97 Trans Am years ago and the drone was terrible...
If the trans and transfer case are indeed synthetic I would leave them alone. But the since the diff's are not syntheic I would will probably do them. Mobil 1 has a 75w90LS lube for limited slip. No need to add anything. I put it in my Corvette and it's working great not clutch chatter or...
Etorque would help for stop and go driving, the 3.92 may also help around town. Also losing weight will help MPG around town. Aerodynamics and 3.21 are you best bet at highway speeds.
Do not switch to 5w30! The engineers designed the engine for 5w20 and that's what you should run. It's a good possibility that those who develop HEMI tick might have been running the wrong oil IMHO.
Yes Synthetic will help. I run synthetic in everything I own.
I know one of the hedges...
30HP sounds a bit optimistic. But the ram air affect won't show up on a dyno. I have done a lot of tuning using HP Tuners on a GM LS platform so I can say the stock ECU(GM anyway) can compensate for +or- 25% fueling if it's anything like GM. There is no MAF just a MAP sensor so tuning isn't...
So far no one in this thread has reported any over steer behavior on the stiffest setting. That was what I was most concerned about with stiffening up the back sway bar too far.
Yes, but very inconclusively... For every it's great no change in ride there a corresponding "the back end jumps around on rough roads". So after reading this entire 29 page thread I still don't know.
I have upgraded to Bilstein 4600's so I might give the stiffest setting a go after...
Stiffer springs will make the ride harsher. It's physics. So will lifting with 5100's becuase they lift by preloading the springs. Springs get progressively stiffer as they compress. Exponentially acording to their spring constant to be exact.
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