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If the bolts are broken and sticking out of the block after you remove the manifold just grab them with a set of vice grips. If broken flush out a few beads on the bolt with a welder and then grab with a set of vice grips. Drilling takes too long and has a huge chance of making something worse...

TheOCDplug.com has 20% off right now using code Santa20off and I want to pick one up, problem is I’m 600km away from my truck. I have the 8.4” non-nav screen in my truck, so I order the 8.4” Large square corner or the 8.4” small rounded corner? Couldn’t get a hold of their customer support and...

My ‘21 has these pages. Never want to see any of those messages as it means that something is likely going wrong with your SCR/DPF system. Nothing has popped up yet on mine in 6 months and 12000k of ownership.

My EcoDiesel Rebel is getting 12.7L/100 in the -20C city driving right now. In normal temps it’s about 11/100 City and I have seen as low as 8.5/100 highway. Only way to go with these trucks.

Mine was fine for the first few thousand miles too, then the Service ESC came on. Solution above.

Sway issues = improper weight distribution Likely need more weight to front axle, or higher tongue weight. I tow a 33’ 7600lb 11’3” tall travel trailer and have no issues. It took a few attempts to get the hitch dialed to get enough weight back to the front axle, but when I did, the ED towed...

I’m towing 33’ on my Dutchmen 268bhs at 7600lbs. Zero sway with my blue ox pro. The key is dialing in the hitch for proper weight distribution. Most don’t put enough weight back to their front axle leading to understeer and an overloaded rear axle, very dangerous. What many describe as sway is...

Auto headlights typically suck anyway and don’t come on in the more dangerous fringe lighting type scenarios. Easy solution, set the brightness at full unless your lights are on and manually turn your lights on.

Unless you’re changing programming to adjust for the Tstat your performance will go down as your PCM will be constantly trying to add more fuel/rpm to get up to design operating temp. This may even throw a code long term. What are you trying to solve with the lower temp?

I’d worry with that rub line already evident in your pictures. Having had a tire separate at high speed before it’s not something you want to experience. Any constant, or near constant rub will weaken the sidewall and lead to a high likelihood of a blowout. I’d recommend some spacers on your setup.

I had this with no lift and it turned out to be a star case where a vacuum line was not connected to the front of the engine.

I’ve heard reverse whine from every vehicle that has ever been driven backwards near me at more than 5kph. Typically don’t hear it at really low speeds.

Shadow lines late in the day.

Anyone else now averaging 2-3mpg less with winter blend diesel? Was getting 22-24 in my Rebel ED, 80% city. Now getting 19-21 with the same mix of driving. I don’t idle it or use remote start to warm up. Hoping this is the winter blend.

Looks awesome.

Head games

Anyone else have a TPMS sensor that reads off? I set my pressure with a digital pressure gauge and it’s accurate within .1 PSI. One of my tires always reads 2 psi less. Anyway to calibrate the sensor? It drives me nuts. Doesn’t matter which corner the tire is on either.

From what I understand the rebel and ORP springs are the same. The bags I have are the airlift 1000HD. Airlift has these recommended for the rebel, but I think the bags should be at least an inch longer if not 2.5” to fill the coil at unladen ride height.

Revert to using mirrors more.

That should be a super easy paint job for any body shop. A little masking and hit all of the visible areas, no need for removal and reinstall.