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Not entirely true. The engine should be running and the steering wheel centered and locked in place for the final toe setting. You don't want it trying to raise and lower if the mechanic opens the door or closes it. That's why the air suspension has "Alignment Mode." Straight out of my manual

You didn't happen to buy any discount no-name gasoline lately, did you? The one time I had a misfire code on a car of mine, I felt it, then it cleared up. The code cleared itself a few days later and 15 years later it never has returned. I blame cheap gas.

And he's still not back to check the answers.....

A multimeter doesn't react fast enough to read the signals on a CAN bus. You'd need an oscilloscope. Look for any dealer add-ons that may have tapped into the CAN wiring. If anything starts to glitch, it can short the bus so nothing can communicate, which will set a whole slew of communication...

I went out and looked at my 2019. I don't have anything there at all. No hole, no plug. If they moved the spare crank, this is it

You'll be more likely to get an answer over at Homepage - HD Rams

You'd probably have better luck getting an answer over at Homepage - HD Rams The 1500s don't come with duals.

I bought a matching 18" aluminum wheel. It's true the cable end doesn't sit as nice as it does in the steel temporary wheel, but it will go through and you can still crank the wheel up good and tight.

Most likely that stalling will go away if you can keep it running a little longer. Modern vehicles have preprogrammed idle settings that slowly adjust to allow for altitude and how dirty the throttle body gets. You just erased that soft memory with the dead battery, so now it has to relearn...

You need enough liability insurance to keep your house and your brokerage account if you should be found at fault. And I wouldn't go without Uninsured Motorist coverage. Just because you can afford to replace it, doesn't mean you want to in the event some lowlife with no insurance decides to...

Welcome. Don't let HSKR R/T's warm welcome put you off.

I looked through what I have of the service maual and nowhere does it mention resetting a steering angle sensor. Which isn't absolute, because the factory manual is kinda weak. However, it was okay, you changed suspension parts, and now it's not okay. Something got messed up with the leveling...

That's normal. The why is the mystery. I suspect it is to keep the evaporator from icing up, others think it's to prevent a buildup of CO2. Whichever, it brings in some outside air. I've tried to get ramcares to ask Chrysler engineers, but it turns out they're completely useless.

It shouldn't make a difference since you don't have positraction. You are correct that you don't want to engage the electronic locking diff. The front end is not limited slip but you still don't want to use 4WD unless you're on something really soft and loose like mud or sand.

I don't see how that made it through the PDI. Maybe it's a test by the factory to see if the dealership catches it?

Those wheel locks will slow down a determined thief about 3 seconds per wheel. There are spiral-fluted sockets made just for removing wheel locks that have stripped out or which have lost the key. Slip it on, a smack with a hammer, shove on a cordless impact gun and done. It probably took me...

Spark plugs would have been the first thing I'd go after. And while I had the coil off anyway, that's when it gets swapped with another. All it takes is a pinhole in the spark plug boot, cracked porcelain, or some carbon tracking and you have a misfire.

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/looking-to-add-aux-switches-using-the-homelink-buttons-to-control-lightbars-diy-how-to-for-under-20.34811/#post-499994

Spare is just a spare fuse, it's not wired. The short answer is: No. First line in this factory publication is "Ram 1500 DT trucks do not have upfitter switched battery circuits available under hood" You'll have to use a fuse tap under the dash. There is a rubber nipple passing through the...