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I checked mine out this weekend. I can’t see any play in the upper or lower ball joints, tie rod ends, A arm bushings, or sway bar links. It sounds like rubber being dragged against something making a squeaking sound, but I can’t seem to narrow it down. Might just bite the bullet and pay someone...

so did you grind the old ones or just press them out? Is there a clip on the new ones?

Pics of new ball joints in old control arm? I didn’t think this was a possibility and mine might need replacing soon.

Mine is doing the same exact thing. It was doing it before and I swapped the Motofab spacers with RC. Lifted struts and replaced the upper control arms with RC as well and the noise stopped. Fast forward 5 months and it’s back. I looked under the truck and nothing is obvious. Probably jack it...

I don’t have the blue halo around the analog gauges, but the center looks the same from what I can tell

So by replacing the lower section with new and reusing your original top, was this just a parts swap without any programming at all? Might be very helpful for those with failed bearings

I’m still curious about this. I don’t see any option to turn it on. Ive tried both the factory nav and the CarPlay/waze and still nothing on mine

I get that same message at least weekly. I have no issues with my truck, no trouble lights, no readable codes, but the app always says my check engine light is on and the dealer I bought the truck from calls the next day trying to schedule a service appointment. I do think there is a glitch...

Recalibration will help with shift points and the mileage will be recalculated correctly. I put 35’s on my v6 and rarely hit 8th gear even after recalibration so I think it’s pretty normal from what I’ve read. My mileage is still lower than stock, but shows an improvement after recalibrated

Some one on here used the home link buttons programmed to an rf receiver wired to a relay to trigger the lights. I think it was made by blazer and was pretty cheap to do it

I tried the aftermarket ones, but they were not dimming. The amber was barely noticeable during the day. I ended up swapping for the factory heated dimming with blind spot.

More or less what I had in mind, but I’d probably go overkill and seal around the harness going into it too.

I had the aem on my 3.6 for about 2 weeks. It was pretty loud so I ordered the top cover for it. It made is slightly more quiet, but not to the wife’s liking so it’s now sitting in a box in my garage. If anyone is interested in it, I’ll cut you a deal on it.

There aren’t fuses for individual speakers, only for the radio or amp that would make all of them stop working if it was bad

The rf hub does need to be programmed to the truck from what I’m told, you can’t just swap it out. After that you program the fobs. If we could just swap them out it would make it much simpler for those with the water intrusion issues.

Mine was short when I followed the factory harness exactly. When I pulled it back and went the most direct route it was spot on. I think an extra 6” would allow to follow the factory harness.

Looks like the replacement is a non heated mirror. I don’t think you can swap that over .

You need to turn it on on the radio under settings/mirror. Then to test, I covered the sensor on the center dash and the rear of the mirror and used a flashlight on the front of the mirror. It should turn a dark blueish color and if the side mirror(s) are equipped they will too

Mine is 2 years old with 40k and I thought that was a lot…

Nice. I doubt if I’d do this before spring anyways due to the weather and lack of garage space, but definitely on my list as a maybe need to do this