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If you go by the oil monitor display on the Ram it will build up for sure, i've learned my lesson with my GMC Envoy it would go over 12K miles before the oil display reaches the 10% and at 100K miles i started having problems with the VVT sensor and actuator due to all the gunk build up in the...
You don't have to have a gazillion watts, just 50 per channel with carefully picked speakers and a 8" subwoofer to make it sound like a million bucks, besides I'm 52 and pushing close to 4000 watts still not deaf. lol
Car audio for me it's an art not an obsession.
Sent from my SM-G977U using...
Your dash speaker on the base sound system are most likely out of phase from factory that's why they don't sound good, until you get individual amplification for all you ain't getting much out of the dash on the base system but if you do get individual amplification for all the difference is...
I had true duals with X pipe on my 04 and I didn't feel any difference n performance from a single 3" exhaust, the headers I could feel the difference then redid the Y pipe after the cats and there I also felt a difference true duals with a OBX resonated X pipe and Bassani mufflers sounded...
That's one of the ground connections i use and i'm pushing close to 4K watts i tested it and it has very low resistance
Yes one bad sub can make the other sound bad, i would test the subs individually JLAudio makes good sounding stuff but they are not very strong.
Dash speakers are the easiest if you want to connect them to the aftermarket amplifier, from the speaker location down to under the dash on each side.
Run the speaker wires from each speaker to the aftermarket amplifier ( if you are going with the Taramps pay attention to the way the speaker...
It does not as far as i know, you have to buy it separate and i'm not sure they have one for the newer models yet, (something you have to research) i know PAC didn't have one for the 2020 with Alpine system that's why i ran new wires on mine.
It will work, the factory amplifier has to stay connected for the PAC AP4-CH41 to work, it doesn't disable any factory function it's just an add on, and you also get a volume control knob for the bass output so you can adjust the subwoofer volume.
Great choice on the Subwoofer, the SA is a great...
If i were you i wouldn't even mess with the factory speaker harness, run all new speaker wires, it's easy to get the wires to the doors, i didn't do the rear ones but the front took less than 15 minutes each there's plenty of room in the boot and nothing in the way, a coat hanger or something...
I rather have high oil flow than high oil pressure, if the oil gets hot that means the bearings are getting hot and you need high flow to cool them down, you use a higher oil viscosity than the manufacturer recommends and the temperature is going to be even higher is not doing you any good...
JL Audio makes very good stuff but 25% of the price is for the brand name, that Stealthbox is a bit overpriced and that 5 channel amplifier doesn't have the power to push it properly. you can do better with a
D-6.1200 | AudioControl if you want the DSP built in ( you can find it cheaper if you...
My suggestion is the DSR1(or similar DSP) is a must have, a 4 channel amplifier for the dash speakers and the front doors, the rear are just fill in sound, most sound should come from in front of you like you are in a concert, if you want you can amplify the rear ones as well but to to overpower...
I got the Taramps amplifier and the DSP on Black Friday for $340, the Polk Audio PAD-4000.4 i got it used a while back on Ebay for $60 i think (also have a brand new one), i have allot of car audio stuff i must have over 30 amplifiers and maybe just as many subwoofers, some speakers, cables...
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