Search results

It went sideways - like internet troll sideways... I deleted it. I'll just stalk people who need help and offer assistance that way instead :LOL:

On the back wall, there are a number of metal standoffs where wire clips plug in - they sit about 1/2" from the back wall. With some careful measurements you can screw your amp rack to these standoffs - this is the route I took, seemed to work well. Pics related :) Feel free to message me if...

It was a lot easier than I was expecting - the panel material is a soft fiber plastic and easy to cut. There is a lot of room and front clearance, I used 1/2" plates with no problems. Worst part by far was threading new speaker wire through.

My numbers are based on the amount of space/clearance in front of the window with it rolled down. I have 8's in all my doors, there is plenty of room in there for pretty much any 6x9 you could imagine - especially if you add a front spacer/adapter. (y)

Mounting depth is > 3.25" for the front speakers, and there is room for up to a 3/4" front-mounted spacer without hitting the inside of the door panel. Plenty of room.

I'm glad mine is cold, that's where I have my stash of leftover Halloween candy!

Thankfully I don't get calls too often, but when I do, yikes! We are in the same boat. Wouldn't mind the option to mute the proximity warning either (while keeping the visual on)

If your metadata is clean (Artist/Album), your folder structure won't matter - the system will scan and index everything automatically.

https://5thgenrams.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/2019-RAM-1500_All_New-OM-3rd_R2.pdf Page 454 has the details (y)

The ANC module lives under the driver seat, big white and black plugs, can't miss it. Having said that, most of our trucks are really quiet, bit some have had noise issues - some have had these addressed at the dealership, while others have implemented their own fixes.

Unplug it and see if it makes a difference?

If you have a multimeter, you can check resistance across the speaker-level inputs... even a very slight load will do. Then again, you can just hook it up and see if it works! :cool: If you end up needing some resistors to get things working, send me a PM and I'll drop a pair in the mail.

The wire harness is all you will need, provided the LOC presents some load. If not, you will need some resistors in-line otherwise the head unit will presumably shut off its internal amp. If you need some resistors, I have some nice ones that I bought for this purpose around here somewhere that...

Something like this should fit a shallow 10 - not the prettiest but you could recarpet or repaint it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SEALED-SHALLOW-MOUNT-UNDER-SEAT-SUB-ENCLOSURE-SPEAKER-BOX-FOR-10-CAR-SUBWOOFER-/362671672803

What happened when you unplugged the RCAs with the engine running? Whine or no whine?

Factory sub is actually a very odd triple voice coil - 3 pairs of wires coming in. A LOC on two pairs or a DSP with channel summing is a good bet, ab45601's advice is solid - it takes more power to really make a difference.

First thing I would do is determine whether your RCAs are carrying the noise or if it is the amp power supply - you can do this if you have an MP3 player (or phone) headphone to RCA adapter. If there is no noise using a clean audio source, then you have a ground loop to address. Perhaps...

Height at the "indent" is right at or just below 16". Interestingly, on my non-reclining seats, when you lift the seat bottoms, the seat backs push towards the rear wall to the tune of about an inch. Top depth 5 1/4, Bottom depth about 5 3/4 - that is with the seat folded up. Add an inch if...

I'll get you some good measurements when I get home tonight - didn't drive the Ram today. My guess would be 6" depth at the bottom, 3" at the top, about 16-17" height.

Hey - good luck with your system, it can be a real bear. You don't need to mess with the mic wires, I strongly recommend you get a PAC wiring harness, it gives you all the pigtails you need from the head unit (tapped under the driver seat). Those go into the DSP, and from there RCAs to the...