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do the mod of the front fender well if it rubs. Stickies in the wheel and tire section.

I would guess that your 2wd with e-locker (aka open diff unless you flip the switch) is already trying to break the tire loose with any moisture on the ground or a strong turn. What size rubber are you running in back? Ditto on stevj- you’ll be running 16% higher rpm for any given speed/gear.

Yep, the point is that it ain’t the bump stops. It’s something else.

You’re experiencing two separate things. The marks are normal. They are the bump stops that you hit when fully turning. The rubbing At partial turn isn’t related to that at all. It’s likely contact with the mudflap at the rear of the front wheel well. There’s an article in the wheels and...

If mpg is your concern, bigger rotating mass is not the answer. If you need the clearance, worth it. If you want the look, worth it. If you’re worried about fuel economy and decide to disable all of the beneficial design factors for fuel economy....

That’s weird- I don’t think the dealer would be able to claim any warranty invalidation. It’s a solid axle- if it’s not straight, it either came like that or you were doing some fun stunts. As far as the slight left on the front end, that’s generally good from what I understand. Most roads...

Leveled with stock Rebel wheels, BORA hubcentric spacers and 37” ridge grapplers. There’s some earlier pics in the thread of leveled with factory rubber.

I like that setup! I’ve actually just used two regular ratchet straps to hold it right behind the drive side cab. Attached to the front low loop and the other ends go through the spokes to two of the factory adjustable rail attachments. Pretty solid- and it lets me put my big cooler and big...

Thanks! You should be fine with a 2” lift and 1” lift from your tires. You’ll definitely be fine in aero mode. I never changed out the shark fin- I probably have 1/4” clearance in my parking garage. If you want to be super safe, just do a 2” level and don’t lift the rear(or lift it less)

No active air dam or lower fascia. Considerably more room in the front of the wheel wells. That said, I’d think you could do a fine job of modding your factory bumper. Worst thing that could happen would be you get a new bumper!

If it’s like my Camaro, those mods aren’t going to make a big enough change to need a different tune. The O2 sensors will take care of that level of airflow change. Now if you did long tune headers and high flow/no cats, it’s be different.

Thanks for the replies, all! After that initial post 5 months ago, I’ve just been driving it. If I’m in an unusually tight turn situation, I’ll go that extra bit and dip the nose. I avoid it otherwise. You’ll learn the feel. As I suspected, everyone has this issue with this amount of...

Two things in your post would make me concerned about 35’s: no trimming and unknown amount of backspace on the new rims. The further out you push the wheels, the more contact you’ll have with the fenders. Check the sticky in the wheels/tires section. Lots of good info.

12 in town and 15 highway. Moderately modified.

Completely missed the “Eco” in there- makes perfect sense. Loved the 3.0L in my 2014 grand Cherokee

You made a great choice! I looked hard at the ZR2 before getting the Rebel- that backseat was the biggest benefit of going full-size to me. That said, I would be surprised if you picked up 4mpg over anything by switching to a Rebel. Well, maybe a 1995 F250 with a 460.

The thing I am most curious about: where did this idea come from? Quaranbored?

Mine would just be a duplicate of wahudiditagain’s post- same Mount location and angles. Move that wire! Don’t want to melt it

Just installed the dual Luyed setup- works great! Thanks for the write up!

Taken in pieces: Leveled limiteds (and really all models) look good. If ghetto spacers means cheaply made ones, I’ll agree. Get some BORAs. The key to hubcentric spacers is proper installation. They come with instructions for torque specs and retighten after 5ish miles. Most aftermarket...