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After tons of searching and looking for combos. Aftermarket, 18", 20". 33 or 35 tires etc. Stressful stuff. Lol But I still wanted a set of Rebel wheels. Finally found a set. Less than 200 miles on them and still had the blue over the RWL. So I we made a deal via FB and I planned the 4.5hr road...

It's been reccomended to replace it due to the BJ angle at full droop. Can put excessive wear on the UBJ. By replacing it, it keeps it at a proper angle throughout full stroke.

That's a complete call for you to make. If you decide to do just a 2" level, I did a write up on the one I did. https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/rough-country-2-level-on-or-laramie-w-pics.2771/#post-40953 Going to order the UCA from the morpar level/lift kit to help with BJ angle.

On the ORP, yes it comes with 1" f/r lift over a standard 4x4. As it sits in your driveway now, it has roughly a 2 1/4" rake. Rear 39 1/2" Front 37 1/4" So if you add a 2" spacer to the rear it will be 41 1/2". If you add a 3" spacer to the front, it will be 40 1/4". Overall you will end up...

Ahhh wasnt even thinking abt that. Thanks!

I think everyone here has a valid point. I just completed my RC 2" level. The spacer itself was 1 7/16". Did the whole job myself. So I can attest to the plastic inlay on the UCA. However the engineers make way more than me so it must make sense? Anywho I took it in for the alignment. Pic...

I took it in assuming I did need one after leveling it. But based off the printout, I didnt. Still had to pay the $100 bucks though. That kinda aggravated me.

Here is the pre/post alignment. Not bad imo.

I priced around to get the RC 2" level kit installed with alignment. On average it was $400. So I rented a strut coil spring compressor and did both sides, no beer, in 1.5hrs. The dealership cost me $100 for alignment. Pic below shows what it was pre/post. Basically paid the money for them to...

Will do! Thanks for the help also

Thanks for your help sir. Hopefully the wheel clears the caliper. When looking at the spec from RC I can fit a 295 60r20 on the level I have. The 325 60r18 are slightly lower but 1" overall wider. Hopefully that .5" with the +12 offset doesn't make an issue.

Not sure. I kinda hope they do. Going to test fit them tomorrow. I think the grey will go nicely with my granite truck.

Ya after chatting with the guy, they are actually +12 offset. He is local so I am gonna go peek at them tomorrow and test fit 2 front and see.

Ya these are +12mm offset.

I sent the guys message. Fore some reason they dont seem to be that much negative offset to me. From what I'm reading, the hub of the wheel should be to the rear on drastic negative offset. Here is a better pic.

I dont mind it. On my 14 bighorn I had to put flairs on it to match the wheel/tire combo. When you say 1.75" past the fender, that wouldn't include the factory flairs. Correct? If I was to measure from the rotor face, how far out would it be? Sry the whole offset thing kinda confuses me...

I just found a set of 325/60/18 wheel and tire package local to me. For a decent price. Here is my question. My truck now has a 2" level on it. The wheels in question are 18x9 -44 offset. Would the rim/tire package be worth it on a leveled truck?

Yesterday I met a fella from the forum and picked up a mopar soft tri fold and installed. Today I installed my RC 2" level kit. :cool:

Actually there is a member here that has a set of Rebel wheels that I am going to get. Will just use the falcon that I currently have until next summer. Then I'm going to go with a set of 285 or 295 goodyear duratrac. Going to ask my dealer if they will be interested in my factory wheels...

I already had the factor 1" with the ORP. So the ride was a little stiffer than one w/o the ORP. However adding the additional lift really didnt change much. Still is a great ride. I would like to find somewhere where there is a side by side comparison of the factory UCA and the Mopar. I would...