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See if they can adjust the door strikers in so the doors seal tighter.

I have a theory that I haven't tested but figured I'd put it out there. I know the cause of the noise is because the hvac system lets too much air into the cab. There is a door deep in the top passenger side of the dash that opens to let the hvac system either heat or cool that air, when...

Mine has the "moorse code" noise as well, it goes away when I turn recirculation on. I took the cowl off the lower part of the windshield on the outside and the intake for the hvac system on the passenger side, when this is open (recirculation off) it makes a terrible noise at 73+ mph, as soon...

Mine has the "moorse code" noise as well, it goes away when I turn recirculation on. I took the cowl off the lower part of the windshield on the outside and the intake for the hvac system on the passenger side, when this is open (recirculation off) it makes a terrible noise at 73+ mph, as soon...

Where are you located? I have chrome bumpers in mint condition that id be willing to trade.

Mine wasn't easy to mount. Took about 5 hours to remove everything, make the mount, and install and wire the light.

Here’s what it looked like 2 days after the dealer washed and cleaned the underside.

Mine is leaking quite a bit of oil, enough that I notice it on the garage floor after 30 minutes of it sitting. Dealer put dye in the oil to track down where the oil is coming from, I’ll be bringing it back next week.

Got a picture yet?

I thought it had went away but it’s back unfortunately. I don’t do much highway driving but when I do and there is a crosswind it comes back.

I don't have a jig made to manufacture them so you'd have to weld the three pieces together yourself, and I also don't have and detailed instructions, just what was written on this thread.

It's MUCH louder than a stock 5.7 hemi charger. If that means anything lol.

Do you know if eaton makes a trutrac rear diff for this axle?

Did they say how updating those modules could effect the noise? I don't really see the connection.

What I got out of the recall is that the cast iron steps are too strong, and in the event of a rear end crash cause the rear axle links to hit the fuel tank. The newer design isn’t as strong and would simply break during a rear end crash.

It’s what the door latches to when you shut it. It’s zinc plated and held on with two bolts. Loosen the bolts 1-2 turns and hit it inward towards the center of the truck. (you’ll have to hit it pretty hard) I adjusted mine about 1/8”- 3/16” inward and haven’t heard the noise since and that was...

I built my own custom mount (completely bolt on) designed for a 20" rigid industries light bar. The bottom of page one has the dimensions for the mount. https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/rigid-industries-light-bar-installation.2793/

It looked to be 16 gauge wire but could've been 14.

It was the high beam wire in the plug that goes into the driver side headlight. I don't remember the color of the wire but just grab a test light, unplug the headlight harness and have someone flick the high beams on and off while you test the prongs in the plug.

I just went to Walmart and bought whatever bed lighting “kit” they had for sale, it was around $25 if I remember correctly.