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Yes, you can disable MDS as soon as you put it in Drive buy pushing the (-) gear limiter button once and then subsequently pushing the (+) button until you get it to 8. Tow/haul also deactivates MDS, but also changes the shift strategy to hold gears longer shifting up and to downshift quicker...

I’ve always heard nothing but good things about Gorilla lug nuts too, I’ve just never used them. They are both guaranteed for life, so you can’t go wrong either way.

The best way to buy is find the correct part number on McGard’s website, but don’t buy direct from McGard. You can usually find them cheaper somewhere else. I usually buy through Summit Racing. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcg-84640

Always been happy with McGard.

This is why you idle at stoplights. F**k the gas.

You guys are really making me feel good about ordering my 2022 Rebel without the eTorque while you could still have the option. I read up quite a bit on eTorque before ordering, but once I found out that non-eTorque doesn’t have auto stop/start, that sold me. I’d love to slap the engineer who...

How wide are your 35’s? Looks to me like a 295 (11.6”) would be close to the UCA’s with no spacer.

Someone on here complained about some drone when MDS kicks in, but I always turn MDS off as soon as I put it in Drive. I’ve never noticed any drone in the cabin at any speed/rpm combination, just the sweet sound of that V8. That sound never gets old to me.

Are you running any wheel spacers with the 295’s? I’ve been considering 295/65/18 on stock Rebel wheels. At 33”, they are same diameter as stock 275/70/18’s, but I wasn’t sure if they would clear the UCA’s.

That doesn’t look used to me either. I don’t have any pics inside the pipes, but yes the heat from the welds will make it look like it may have been used.

Pretty consistent in the 14’s, probably 50/50 city/highway. 91 octane, MDS always off. 15’s are mainly highway, 13’s pulling my 16’ flatbed with 4-wheelers. Temperature really doesn’t seem to make much of a difference. Truck is just shy of 7K, so might get a little better with a few more miles...

Sorry I raised such a stink posting those pics. The first one was at 140K and the engine was not running very well because of it. The second one I believe was a 75K service. Running a quality catch can should help reduce that level of fouling of the throttle body. You can still get a little...

As HSKR said, pretty common with the 5.7. It’s not hard to find info on this. I’ve seen how much I’ve caught in 6K miles. With port injection, it’s not as big an issue for the valves, but no fuel hits the throttle body to wash it.

Couple pics of hemi throttle bodies. Your choice.

I actually just left mine off. IMO, it looks better without it, not to mention less heat soak.

52 days order to dealer lot, about this time last year.

It’s a $65K+ truck. What’s the big deal spending $200 on a known quality catch can. Took <10 minutes to install the Mishimoto. I can assure you there is not a higher quality product. Talk to your servicing dealer if you have any concerns. My service manager put in writing via email that the...

I turn MDS off every time I shift into Drive. I didn’t buy a V4.

Didn’t 2019 and before have front and rear resonators? My 2022 only has rear resonators, but I don’t notice any drone with the MBRP with the rear resonators still in. The resonators should help eliminate drone if anything. There is the slight hiss at idle that supposedly can be fixed by filling...

My 2020 Grand Cherokee always had a slight antifreeze smell after driving since it was new. Finally, at about 35K, it was discovered that the radiator had a pin hole leak, apparently from the time it was new. First MOPAR replacement also had a leak. Replaced a second time and has been fine ever...