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My truck has 2 under the infotainment system which do CarPlay…and two in the rear that are constant power and one inside the lid which is also constant power.

I’m having an issue with the USB port inside the top lid of the center console. Itgas worked fine for 3 1/2 years and now has stopped charging. Oddly enough, when I raise the lid half way it charges but as soon as I lower the lid to normal position it stops. I am guessing by the way it’s acting...

Yes all functions returned after a few hours.

The new sensor is a bit more accurate and all functions returned after about 4 hours.

Thanks

I also lost the backup camera🤬

Thanks. I was getting concerned because I also lost the ability to use the heat/cooling controls (blue and red arrows) lots of missing stuff in settings too. Do you know how to add satellite radio icon back?

I lost the heater controls and some of the options like passenger heated seats…and satellite radio icon

I just replaced mine and it’s still 5 degrees higher. It was worth a try. My only problem now is all of my settings are screwed up and I lost a bunch of features after disconnecting my negative terminal.

Lately, mine is off by as much as 10 degrees but it wasn’t always that bad. It used to just be a degree or two. My other cars are all never more than a degree off from the local apps. I’m curious to see if the sensor change will make any difference.

My local weather app and the weather in Travelink. It’s always 6-10 degrees off and sometimes even after 30 minutes or so of driving doesn’t correct itself. It used to be much more accurate (within a degree or two) and always corrected after a few minutes of driving. It also seems to stay at the...

That’s what I figured. I can’t recall if I touched the ignition but don’t believe I did. Anyway, I guess I’ll just disconnect it and suffer waiting for everything to return😂

Funny because I disconnected the sensor about a year ago to reset it and see if that changed anything and I got a check engine light that wouldn’t go away. I had to disconnect the negative side to get rid of he check engine light. Last week I disconnected it again to try a reset and no light...

I will do. I figured at less than $10 it’s worth a try.

You ain’t kidding!

Yeah I probably will. I just didn’t feel like waiting forever for all of the functions to return.

New OEM

OEM. It is really cheap so I figured I’d give it a try.

I apologize but I’m still confused. So does it even matter if I don’t disconnect the negative and leave the battery alone?

I am planning to swap out the temperature sensor located in the drivers side mirror to see if it helps correct the temperature inaccuracy issues. A friend printed out instructions from the PRODEMAND website and it says to first disconnect the negative battery cable. Can anyone who may have done...