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This, coupled with some security bolts, seems like a great idea. Thieves want the quick in and out. Anything that slows them down will induce most of them to go to the next vehicle.
I said nothing about breaking. I just want something simpler than what is currently on board. A bar is pretty easy to store. Heck, I could strap it to my cargo rack.
As I mentioned, other vehicles with the cable and winch spare have the winch located so you can see and touch the rotating lug...
This is my thought. Thankfully, unlike you, I have not had to test it in actual field conditions. I've got a high-lift bottle jack and some wood pieces that I keep in the bed in case I need to jack up the truck. I also have a 24" breaker bar and 22mm socket for the lugs.
(FWIW, the lowering...
Folks,
I want a sturdy piece of metal to raise and lower my spare, not the three (four?) piece Rube Goldberg contraption sitting under the front passenger seat.
What works? What do people use? (I'll store it either in the bed or under the rear seat, next to my breaker bar.)
Thanks!
The PowerStop z36 kit is what I used on a 2007 1500. Perfect swap. Very easy, very good brake kit.
OEM is fine. If that's what you're more comfortable doing, then use them.
Me? When this Ram needs brakes, I'm going to use PowerStop rotors and pads. (Hell, I may even buy them now, since I don't...
Lots of threads on this issue.
AIUI, it's either a recall or a TSB (<- TSB states to do the repair if customer complains, so about as good as a recall?), and the dealer will fix this. It's a blender door issue???
From what I've read, the fix seems to result in MUCH better cooling.
I'm pretty sure I went with F48. Gotta get home and double-check.
I also have to make sure all 3 of my fuse taps (2 for dashcam, 1 for radar detector) have the "hot" leg oriented correctly.
I have a system. ;)
I bought a test-tube thing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X5C2PDL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Whether it's my 50/50 Amsoil Cetane Boost/CleanerLube mix or straight Power Stroke Diesel Kleen (the former for my ecoDiesel, the latter for my TDi)...
I found that it only came off after I'd applied 3.7 Metric Tonnes of Cussing and Swearing. And, obviously, I also had to make a small sacrifice to the blood god. Every project requires that.
As others have said, and, repeating myself: until the pumps are replaced, a lubricity additive is your HPFP's best friend. That, and making sure you don't pass air into the HPFP.
But, yes, I'll sleep better once the CP4.2 has been replaced with a CP3.
Folks,
I'm using F33 and F66 for my hardwired dashcam. I'm going to add a hardwired radar detector. I want to find another switched fuse location on the interior fuse panel.
Any suggestions as to which fuse I should use for my fuse tap?
Thanks!
Parts: the inventory exists...on the trucks parked in the dealer lots.
I would start lemon-lawing the hell out of any long-term delay. The dealership can, for example, remove a NOx sensor from any one of their inventory vehicles and then take it up with corporate to repair it.
My bold. You win the Internet Understatement of the Year Award. ;)
Good luck.
Edited to add: I like tape over the RF module, and I like the Pilkington window solution. I had the repair done (just once...so far), but next time (because we all know there will be a next time), I'll do the...
Here's a (poor) picture of what's collected since I installed the catchcan about 1,800 miles ago.
Yeah, just a smidge. That's the line barely visible at the bottom of the sight gauge. But, that smidge is not coating the back of my valves or anything else in the air path.
Welcome...and too bad.
Being out of warranty, you'll be hanging your hope on a goodwill repair. For that, contact RamCares, found on this forum. Give them a direct message.
If that fails, you're going to hope that the class action lawsuit (one is underway) will include you in the eventual...
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