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I've heard people say this "Accelerate to speed swiftly rather than slowly getting up to speed" before and I've never understood it. Why would accelerating faster save gas? When I accelerate slowly, I'm in MDS most of the time. Seems backwards to me.

Anyone have any ideas on how to measure or document the vibration? I've been to the dealer and they say it drives as expected. I tried taking a video of my fast food bag shaking from the vibration on a smooth highway.

There's some truth to the accident idea. Or if you get the urge to trade in a couple years from now.

I will admit to my personal bias of buying new over used. I've purchased about 20 new vehicles and had a trade-in almost every time. I've never been asked for service records when trading in a vehicle and it makes me question how someone treated a vehicle before the dealership acquired it. For...

Also, be sure to do the math on if your state gives you a tax break for the credit of your trade-in on a new vehicle. This values in significance depending on the value of your trade. In my state, you get the tax break on new vehicle purchases but not used. Also, you can check out the Allstate...

Good points and I also think the poster may save some on new vs used car financing. Even with financing through FCA. Many sources say used car values are tanking. I don't think this is a deal worth taking.

I think their 48 mph average "highway" test should be called "country." They should have a 65 mph average test called "highway."

I found a website (https://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-economy/28004-epa-fuel-economy-explained1.htm) that explains how the EPA calculates the highway rating. What stood out to me is an average speed of 48 mph and a max speed of 60 mph during the test. I don't know about you...

My understanding is etorque helps off the line from a standstill, helps with auto shut-off at stops, and helps fill torque between shifts. When would etorque be active on the highway? I looked up how the EPA does highway rating tests and found the following: "The "highway" program, on the...

I think you make some good points, especially for city driving. On the highway though, etorque doesn't help and may even be a slight parasitic loss (plus added weight).

Like they said "They don't like stop and go and they don't like 70+. "

This is going down a rabbit hole. The dealership can say things like different rebates are applicable based on time or region of purchase, trade in and financing aren't apples to apples. The fastest and most pain-free way to get a great deal is to have current and competing offers from local...

If you have great credit, I would agree to finance through their BS marked-up financing as long as the purchase price is around 37 and trade-in is what you want. Then refinance right after purchase. They are going to try and make money on the purchase price, finance, trade-in and gap and...

Yes, but the purchase price is just one part of the sale. Are you financing? What is their finance offer? Trade-in? Extended warranty?

There was a poster not too long ago in this thread that bought a more expensive Ram at 30% off. It's common for zero mile trucks in your vehicle's price range to sell for 20 to 25% off. Combined with 5,000 demo miles, I think 30% is a fair target.

I should add that even at 25% to 30% I'd still want a favorable trade-in and financing offer, if applicable. I'd also be paranoid about looking for any damage. 5,000 demo miles is significant, in my opinion.

I would try for 30% off due to the miles. Zero miles and I'd shoot for 25% off.

With the long history of the 3.6 and 5.7 being relatively reliable, I'd be surprised if FCA spent the extra money for nice break-in oil. I don't think 99.9% of engine break-in procedures have a chance of changing anything during the powertrain warranty period, which is the only time frame FCA...

It sounds like the interior is very important to you. That is arguably the Ram's best feature when compared to the competition. It also sounds like you're considering the fancier trims and if comfort is also a priority, you may consider going with not the biggest wheel option for more tire...

I wonder if Ram prefers low incentives and zero financing hoping buyers will want to trade in after 2, 3, 4 years. Even if the savings are equal between zero financing and rebates, you need to keep the truck for awhile before they balance out. The earlier you trade, the more the rebates make...